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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. I just had all 4 wheel cylinders in my 'shiverlay' sleeved by Karp's Power Brake in So-Cal..... http://www.karpspb.com/brake-sleeving.html They supplied the rebuild kits too. Took about $300 and 4 months....they're busy.
  2. Nice...Can't beat the excitement created by freshly machined parts. Feel free to pepper this thread with more pics....
  3. RE: interior color, I recall that @Boss Hog 's interior has maroon seats. His is a '53.
  4. Geezus..... I know he's always behind schedule, but not that far behind. Well, at least I warned you, but the finished product is all that matters now. He'll be grinding my 440 crank regardless, I don't care how long it takes. I think he took about three months when he did my last one for the 230 that I have in the truck now. I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the finished crank when you can get them posted here! Send me some photos of his shop too, if you don't mind....
  5. For what it's worth, I got my new wheel cylinders from Roberts when I rebuilt the brakes over 10 years ago. Not sure where they were made, but they are still doing the job. I probably should do an inspection soon, but I just keep driving it. Stagnation is the enemy of cast iron brake cylinders. Sleeving with stainless or brass is a great solution if you don't drive it that much.
  6. The interpolation of the tappet bore clearance by rocking the head back and forth seems like it would be prone to lots of variables, especially if one is supposed to plug the results into a formula to arrive at the supposed "real" clearance... This reminds me of the manual's method for determining the piston to cylinder bore clearance as well. I didn't like the published method, so... I measured both with various snap gauges and micrometers. This is probably how the shop that performed the machining discussed above measured it. BUT....I agree with B4YA's assessment.... probably all good (nice Starrett, BTW...that's the real deal!). Hey Matt, I was just thinking about you the other day...been meaning to check in. Did you get the crank back from Armando? Hopefully so, by now!!!
  7. Hey Fargo...All of the pertinent information I listed in the post that you quoted. Please check out my build thread linked below for more detailed info and post questions to that one. I don't want to muddy the waters with too much flimflam on Fargone's build thread. S10's were known for the Iron Duke....same 4 cylinder that still powers the US mail delivery vehicles today! I would swap in a 265 if I could get me one, they are nice engines. But I really don't have any complaints about the "little" 218, it works great.
  8. Thanks for documenting your build, I can't wait to see the results of the first A833 trans swap, at least one that's been documented on this forum. As others have said in regards to the rear end ratios, I think you will want a lower ratio as well. Considering the power output of the flattie, you'll want an overall final drive ratio of around 12 to 13:1, in first gear. In my truck (equipped with an OD) I believe the final ratio in first is about 13.5:1. That gets me up to about 10 - 15 mph but a quick start off the line. It works perfectly and I love driving it. Edit: From a performance perspective, I absolutely need this 1st gear for starting out. I can start out in 2nd but it's sluggish.... Edit: On the tall end of the gearing, I have 2.95 final drive ratio. Highway speeds I'm in the low 2k's for RPM. I can climb hills in OD as well. 230 w/ (2) 1bbl carbs. "junk buckets" .... WTF, LOL!
  9. I'd think that if a 12 volt Pertronix Ignitor was installed on a 6 volt system, it wouldn't even run.... I installed a 6 volt compatible Pertronix on mine with the stock 6V coil years ago and have never looked back to the days with points. The important step to take is to call their Tech line and have them give you the appropriate part number for your system, whether 6 or 12 volt, positive or negative ground. they make 'em all.
  10. The only thing missing in that shot are Willie, Waylon, and the boys....
  11. Ah....good to hear. I will check online.... That "figure 8" spring clip...that's the part in the door that the arm slides through?
  12. I need one of these for the passenger side... door is dented where it has opened into the rear edge of the front fender as a result of said piece missing.
  13. That torque converter looks big in the pictures, and heavy.... What's the new manual trans?
  14. Does the Route Van live in MN? I didn't realize how tall those things were....
  15. I just noticed that my truck made it into a Gooogle aerial when it was parked in San Francisco recently....
  16. I changed the oil in my friends VW golf (?) or whatever 4-dr little hatchback thing she drives. It had a Plastic oil pan for chrissakes!!! Even the drain plug was plastic, twist it 90 degrees and it pops out. I don't see it lasting through a half dozen oil changes by the jamokes at jiffy-lube....
  17. I also used ARP studs and nuts and the value of 55 ft-lbs sounds about right, although I would recommend checking with ARP technical. They are pretty helpful when you call... A set of studs should come with a wee packet of ARP thread lubricant, which is good shite!
  18. Whenever it's a "call for price" situation that bumps it into default red flag status - hostile seller....
  19. I'm out of vacation time...went to Spain instead. Watch the fishtailin'!
  20. The grass must still be growing, which means endless mowing and no time for fun. We just had a couple weeks of unusually late storms out here.
  21. I didn't see an asking price....
  22. A heads up on this sludge in engines that were running in the days of leaded gas. It contains tetraethyl lead deposits and it's usually found in higher concentrations in the "resting places" such as the oil wells for the tappets and in the pan. It never leaves the engine. It'll absorb through your skin if you don't wear gloves. If you blast parts with it on it, it becomes airborne if not contained well. When it goes in the hot tank or jet wash, the solution then becomes contaminated. Pay attention to anything that comes into contact - tools, rags, clothing, etc and clean or dispose of properly. It's easy to unknowingly bring it into your house where others might be exposed. Helping a friend at his machine shop over the years, cleaning many old engines, made us realize that we have to be careful given the amount of times that we're exposed to this ****...
  23. I believe that one essential piece of equipment needed is a "growler". It checks the armature.
  24. Another good brand of paint worth mentioning is XO Rust. I think this is usually available at True Value stores. The running board support on the left was painted with their red oxide primer years before the whole frame was stripped and painted. It was over rust too - this was the battery area. When I blasted, sanded, and wire brushed the frame in '12, the red oxide wouldn't budge. So I painted over it. It's an Alkyd like Rust Oleum but better. They have quarts and rattle cans. They even make a sh*t brown color that's a 95% match to my truck!
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