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John-T-53

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John-T-53 last won the day on June 27

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe Vintage Mopar!
  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belmont, CA 94002
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B, 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 1973 Chrysler NYB

Converted

  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Architect

Recent Profile Visitors

743 profile views
  1. California Assembly Plants: Where, What & When?

    I wouldn't want to be stuck in that neighborhood after dark...
  2. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    Maybe he'll post some when not under fire...
  3. California Assembly Plants: Where, What & When?

    San Leandro...The buildings still stand. I visited here a few years ago on a tour of Olsen Steel (non knowing the building's significance at the time). In the back of the taller building is Drake's Brewing.
  4. Will not Cross Drill my crank

    Me too.... I hope that someday you will find peace in your life.
  5. Will not Cross Drill my crank

    These engines had a highly advance oiling system for their day. Speaking from real world experience, the most important thing that one can do, if undertaking a rebuild, is to maintain specified tolerances throughout, and have quality machine work done. Good crank grinders are getting more scarce these days. It's imperative to have a crank grinder, with a good crank grinding machine, that knows how to size journals appropriately to the correct limit range based on the bearings that he should already have in hand, which will ensure even oil supply across all journals. If I were to attempt any improvements in the oil system of one of these motors, I would examine the pan baffling and perhaps look at adding full-flow filtration.
  6. Will not Cross Drill my crank

    I didn't know these guys were crank experts too? I though George was the expert on carbs, manifolds, and overdrives. And Tim is the new guy taking over George's business...? Agreed that the original poster is right in not feeling the desire to cross drill is crank. These engines are low revving motors...good up to about 3500, they should go up into the 4k - 5k range, even if possible.
  7. 1955 C1B Build Thread

    You're making some nice progress there! That's one hell of a good lookin' motor. I love the simplicity of the block design.
  8. Check out this flathead goodie!

    So it's an F-head conversion. Intakes are overhead and exhaust is thru the block. I didn't see any details photos on the linked page of how it works exactly, but I'm curious, especially how they get an OH intake valve to operate given the existing cam and lifter positions... I only recall an F head in some of the Willys engines of the early 50s, notably the Aero.
  9. Check out this flathead goodie!

    Might you have a link to the page? Looks like Earl Edgerton's FI setup. Is he selling them now? "The price would gag a maggot"....haha. Would it also harelip the Pope? BTW, I sure home Earl and his shop made it through the firestorm ok. Santa Rosa and the surrounding area got hit hard - I think like 5,000 structures burned completely and over 40 people killed.
  10. Valves, springs and guides... (oh my)

    You have to drive them out from the top with a pilot drift and a BFH. The pilot must be slightly smaller in diameter than the guide so you don't mushroom the end of the guide, and so you can drive it through the bore. You can make a pilot quite easily if you have a lathe. A good piece of stock to start with is a differential cross shaft, or a king pin. Pound away, you can't really hurt anything as long as the pilot doesn't slip and you don't hit anything else. It takes quite a few blows, you'll only moving the guide about .030" - .050" at the most with each blow. You can break the guides in half when they've been driven half way through with a cold chisel and your trusty BFH, or a reciprocating type "saw thing" like Brent used. Only need to do this if the lifters are in place. Good luck!!!
  11. How bad is the leak? Do you know what type of seal is in there currently? If rubber, perhaps some ATP-205 additive might help. And / or, "high mileage" type of oil. Unfortunately, the rear main seals on these motors like to leak, even when new and with a polished crank. Often, you will see corrosion pits on the crank surface which a new seal won't fix. See photo below, above the thrust collar. Pits.
  12. Interesting, I see the "like" meter has changed. Thanks for the little heart, Don! Haha!
  13. Rear main seal replacement is tricky. I'd pull the motor, mainly because I'm sick of laying on the ground. You'd have to unbolt the transmission and remove the bellhousing and flywheel for proper access. You have to remove the timing chain so that the crank can be moved down for clearance. The good news is that you can leave the connecting rods bolted in place, and the pistons will all slide down in their cylinders. Trick is not to move the crank to the point of the rings snapping out! This is at least for a two-piece modern seal. You need to take these steps so that the seal can be properly glued into place. Without sealant, it's a waste of time. Also, I'm Not sure about a rope seal, that's a different animal. See pics below for a recent rear main seal replacement on a 251.
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