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John-T-53 last won the day on June 27

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe Vintage Mopar!
  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Belmont, CA 94002
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B, 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 1973 Chrysler NYB


  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

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665 profile views
  1. How bad is the leak? Do you know what type of seal is in there currently? If rubber, perhaps some ATP-205 additive might help. And / or, "high mileage" type of oil. Unfortunately, the rear main seals on these motors like to leak, even when new and with a polished crank. Often, you will see corrosion pits on the crank surface which a new seal won't fix. See photo below, above the thrust collar. Pits.
  2. Interesting, I see the "like" meter has changed. Thanks for the little heart, Don! Haha!
  3. Rear main seal replacement is tricky. I'd pull the motor, mainly because I'm sick of laying on the ground. You'd have to unbolt the transmission and remove the bellhousing and flywheel for proper access. You have to remove the timing chain so that the crank can be moved down for clearance. The good news is that you can leave the connecting rods bolted in place, and the pistons will all slide down in their cylinders. Trick is not to move the crank to the point of the rings snapping out! This is at least for a two-piece modern seal. You need to take these steps so that the seal can be properly glued into place. Without sealant, it's a waste of time. Also, I'm Not sure about a rope seal, that's a different animal. See pics below for a recent rear main seal replacement on a 251.
  4. Molly Time!

    That wheel looks like it failed due to a combination improper attachment, or loose lug nuts while being driven. Corrosion may have also played a role if areas were severely weakened to begin with. This wouldn't normally occur on a wheel just because it's stamped steel or stock.
  5. Valves, springs and guides... (oh my)

    Helping a friend work on a 251, check out these nice original valves.... they're going back in.
  6. Moro Bay truck

    A rare sunny day in Morro Bay...
  7. Fuel pump replacement

    After pivot pin failure, the second time around I staked it, and it still walked out on its own. So, made a new pin with a clip.
  8. Petronix part number ?

    Call up Pertronix and have them tell you what to order. I tried looking it up myself when doing the same project a few years ago but was not 100% sure like yourself. They're quite helpful, from my experience. And yup, be sure to tell them if you have changed your system to 12 volts.
  9. Wax or leave it alone.

  10. Valves, springs and guides... (oh my)

    Ordered through machine shop, they don't deal with nos parts, no suppliers carry them usually. Where would one find nos valves or guides? VPW?
  11. Valves, springs and guides... (oh my)

    I used Chevy valves (made by SBI) too only because I couldn't find a stock Mopar valve and guide combo that would give the proper stem to guide clearance (all were excessive). Found some SBI valves that had a thicker stem, then honed out the guides. The valve faces had to be turned way down on the lathe to make 'em fit, it was a biotch. I would do it differently now, keep the stock valves and install bronze guide inserts like Marty had in his hopped up flattie.
  12. Timing to retarded or not.

    I can't imagine finding the correct electronic ignition on Amazon. With 6 V + ground you have to order the exact one that will work, I had to call Pertronix and have them tell me the correct model number (after they had a team huddle) before I ordered it directly from them. Also I wouldn't recommend installing Ford parts on you MoPar; a dimmer switch ain't that expensive...who knows how the Ford switch works and if even 6 volts... http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/dimmer-switch-dodge-truck-plymouth-truck-fargo-truck-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1936-1970-1-1