47heaven

No, Bob. I wish I did have the original housing so I would know what the diameter and length is. I guess I can go by the opening in the back to figure out the diameter. Thanks for posting those pics!

Bob, is the base of that switch going to fit through the hole in the back of the control switch panel? This is the dilemma I'm going through right now with the aftermarket one I have in the car.

What can I say...I'm cheap. Actually, I'm frugal. If you what to pay that much, more power to you. Actually, I'm trying to stay away from the old electrical parts as much as possible. What is new and behind the dashboard can't be seen anyway.

He's right, Frank. I need the whole switch. Tim, I saw that on Ebay earlier....out of my price range. My original bit the dust a while back. Just trying something that might fit.

Is that better?

Just wondering if anyone has come across any universal or aftermarket ignition switches that would fit in place of where the original switch once fit. Tired of my universal one just hanging, and trying to avoid buying a NOS one on Ebay. Thanks!

DJ- This is the second OD solenoid I have put on this car, and it is a used one, at that. I'm hoping that it is an easy fix, and that I don't need a new one because these aren't falling off of trees anymore. It took me a while to find the one I have on there now. I will read the link on the OD. Thanks!

No, Greg. Most likely won't be going back.

Ok, I will check that out. Thanks!

Thanks for the troubleshooting replies. Sorry I'm getting back right now, but was off the computer all day yesterday. So here's what happened. I was waiting for some responses on here, but it seemed that no one was responding right away. So I called a couple buddies up and explained my dilemma. They told me to try to move the linkage around and see if it was bound. So I gave it a shot, but couldn't see anything. Then, the manager of the restaurant told me that I couldn't work on the car there, and that I had to move it. I explained to him what had happen. So he suggested that I call a tow truck because he didn't want the car there, especially by the entrance, which I can understand, but nonetheless, he was being a real dick. Anyway, called a tow truck out and explained to the driver that if I could get the car backed up and in a position that I could go forward I wouldn't need the tow. So he was able to lift up the back with the hoist on the truck and we moved the car back in to the main part of the parking lot. He then let it down, and I was able to drive forward. I came back around and stopped. I tried to but it into reverse, and still nothing. The o/d still didn't pull out. I proceeded to drive out to the main street. Once I was on there, I tried to get the o/d to kick in by letting off the gas, as usual. It took a couple tries, but it finally kicked in. I then pulled into a parking lot and stopped. I tried reverse, and it worked. I was also able to pull the o/d cable out to disengage it, as well. I decide to back into the garage this time instead of pulling in to play it safe. This morning I took it out and drove it. It's now taking more tries to get the o/d to kick in than it did before. So, as long as I have the o/d disengaged when I park, I can go up into reverse. What I'm concerned about is if this will happen if I have to come to a stop on the road and want to disengage the o/d or if I stop and have to back up a little, will the same thing happen when I try to go into reverse? Maybe if the car is still running when I stop, it might not. Hard to tell. This didn't used to happen before, with o/d in or out when I parked. Maybe the solenoid is going out?

I mean when the shifter is in neutral, it's still in some gear and won't let me push it back.

Hey guys....trying to get some quick advice here. Trying to get the Plymouth to go into reverse, but refuses to go up into reverse gear. Will go into 1st, 2nd and 3rd, but not reverse. I tried to put it into neutral, but it's stuck in one of the gears it seems. Cant go forward because i'm in a parking stall. Also, o/d is engaged and won't allow me to pull the cable to disengage it either. When I was trying to force the shifter into reverse I could smell the clutch. Turned motor off and haven't tried since So what is the issue here? What can be done to free it?

Hey guys....trying to get some quick advice here. Trying to get the Plymouth to go into reverse, but refuses to go up into reverse gear. Will go into 1st, 2nd and 3rd, but not reverse. I tried to put it into neutral, but it's stuck in one of the gears it seems. Cant go forward because i'm in a parking stall. Also, o/d is engaged and won't allow me to pull the cable to disengage it either. When I was trying to force the shifter into reverse I could smell the clutch. Turned motor off and haven't tried since So what is the issue here? What can be done to free it?

Hey Dave, that did the trick! Wow...now I feel stupid. I was just following the way Zen Master Don Coatney had his adjustment bolt and nut shown. Man, the things you learn how to do, and not do on here are amazing! Thanks, again, man! Darin

Things are different here in California, Ed. Mom and pop hardware stores virtually don't exist anymore, especially in Southern California. You basically have Lowe's or Home Depot to deal with or you have to drive a long way to a specialty store.

ATTENTION MODERATOR: PLEASE DO NOT COMBINE THIS THREAD WITH MY PREVIOUS THREAD ON GLOVE COMPARTMENT BUMPERS, REGARDLESS OF WHO FEELS IT SHOULD BE DIRECTED THERE. I'D PREFER THIS THREAD SEPERATE FROM THAT ONE. THANK YOU. Okay, so I recently just installed some glove box bumpers that I made, and now I have an issue with the glove box not closing completely. In fact, the only way I'm able to open it is by pushing the lock button in all the way and pulling the door out at the same. Another member had mentioned that his glove box door doesn't have a tension spring on it, but he can just hit the button fast and the door will pop open. I tried the same thing, but the door would just bounce back a tiny bit and get hung up on the adjustment bolt. I tried adjusting the bolt at different settings, but it didn't work. It still got stuck. I thought with the new rubber bumpers I installed that I installed would give the door enough tension so that it would pop open enough to pull it down the rest of the way. The door shuts, but there is still some loose gap between the door and where it's supposed to hit the bumpers. This is how I have to open it. Door in closed position when pressure is forced How door looks when shut without pressure. Notice loose gap. I then checked to see if maybe the catch on the latch was the problem because it looks as if it's not retracting all the way down when the button is completely pushed in. As far as the adjustment bolt, I've screwed it in as far as it and the nut will allow. If eel like the adjustment bolt nee to go in father so that when the lock latches, it will allow for moor of a pull on the door in the closed position, allowing more tension against the bumpers. Any suggestions or ideas?

Don...I tried what you said after making adjustments with the adjustment bolt, but every time it hit the button fast, the door would bounce back a tiny bit, but still get hung up on the adjustment bolt and stay ajar. I thought with the new rubber bumpers I installed that the door would have to tension pushing on it, but there is still some loose gap between the door and where it's supposed to hit the bumpers. I thought that when the latch connected with the bolt that it would pull the door tightly against the bumpers, creating some pressure so that the door would spring open when the button was pushed. This is how the door should shut normally (I'm pushing on it in this pic) ....but this is how it shuts if I just shut it regularly without pushing it in. You can see the gap is wider, and the door is not up against the bumpers. This is the farthest the catch in the latch will go down when the button is pushed all the way in. Should it be going down lower than that? This might be why it's hanging up on the bolt upon opening it. This is how I have to open it....push the button in with my thumb and pull the door open with my other fingers.

Bob....while I was putting on the glove box door bumpers yesterday, I took a pic from behind the dash and noticed after I took the pic where that stray piece I have went.

Yesterday afternoon, I was toying with the idea of making my own glove compartment door bumpers instead of buying them off of Ebay. Went down to Lowe's and bought two 9/16 x 3/8 x 1 rubber stoppers (those were the smallest they had) and a package of 3/8 metal screws. I also used some washers I already had for support for the screw. I then measured how far out the stoppers would protrude from the dash and trimmed them to the size I needed. I then glued the two washers together (optional) so that the screw wouldn't protrude through the stopper when screwed in from the back of the dash. I then pushed the screw in from the back of the hole and secured it with a small screwdriver. Then, I placed a little adhesive on the back of the stopper and twisted it onto the screw until it was flush against the surface of the dashboard. Then, I held the stopper in place and tightened the screw from behind. In total, I spent $2.50 in materials, and they look like something that belonged there originally.

Andy...do you have a pic of what you came up with? I really doubt that I will find the correct spring for my car, so I'm all for rigging something up, as you did.

Bob...thanks for the photo. I was searching on here last night for the bumpers, thinking that those were what I needed so that the door would pop open, not even knowing that it had a spring at one time. I went and looked around at the door hinge, and my spring is definitely missing, as you can see in the photo below. It probably has been since I took the dash board apart to get it painted back in 2007. The latch shows no sign of ever having a spring, like I've just seen in some of the other pics shown in threads on here regarding glove box springs I did find this one piece in the glove box, and though it looks old, I don't think that it is the piece you were talking about. Not sure what it goes to.

I want to thank Joe Flannigan for hooking me up with the glove box door catch. I can now close the door without any magnets to keep it closed. The only problem now is that when I latch push button to open the door, it doesn't spring open. I'm assuming that it's because it's missing the glove box bumpers and plugs, which probably are meant to put pressure of the closed door to slightly pop open when the latch button is pushed? Where can I get some new ones or ones that would be equivalent for my P15? I didn't see them on AB's site.

Yes, Tod, the white line had to be photoshopped in because it would have been a pain in the a$$ to try to paint it. I could have gone with a little darker tint on the line on line, and worked with the cracks as well, but this was our first attempt. The problem with going further in the desert is that the majority of the cars we can get for this belong to friends who live out more towards L.A., and that's quite a drive for them. They were fine with Whitewater, but that would have probably have been their limit. There is a strip of abandoned highway just south of where we were that was part of the old road to Palm Springs that came off of Highway 60. It was CA-111, just like it still is today. We were thinking of shooting down there sometime. Also, there is some old U.S. Highway 466 between Tehachapi and Bakersfield that is pre-1948. Not a lot of old abandoned highway out there that is still in decent shape or accessible anymore. You were mentioning the piece of road between Mecca and Chiriaco Summit. It was U.S. 60 from 1931-1935, when it was bypassed, as seen in the map below. The majority of that 1935 bypass is covered up by I-10 today, except for Dillon Road, which you can still take from Indio to I-10.

Yes, you got the idea! No you're not hijacking it. What you posted is relevant.