TJM70's_48

Thanks, Bill. Very helpful. I posted to try and find out what to be aware of...look out for & take into consideration. If I have some time today, I'll take a look at the turnsignal setup; It's a Signal Stat 800.

Yep. Radios, TVs, clocks, etc...other electronic items. So, I should get the basics, I think. In my mind, I'll either get stop lights and no turn signal or a flashing center light when turning...trying not to over complicate it but would like to get brake and turn signals. Someone else suggested a separate mechanical switch for the fender brake lights to me like Denisons did above. Just looking for the right way to do it... Todd at Technostalgia made me think they might not be the same setup as referenced in the posted instruction sheet. I think Don explained it perfectly and according to the directions from Technostalgia, looks like it will work if they are still the same. I'm usually guilty of over-thinking things.

All the answers have been very helpful; I appreciate the generous help provided in this forum. I do a lot more reading and lurking than posting because I am still learning - often by trial and error - about my car and old cars in general. So, all advice is greatly appreciated. I am usually a pretty quick study, but, have learned a lot over the past four years of having my Plymouth. So much more to go...

No I did not...Todd from Technostalgia emailed me directions that aren't the same as what you posted. I should not have assumed they were the same - I had already read the instruction sheet from Todd and couldn't figure out how to do what I wanted based on those. Thanks again for the help and for pointing out the important difference. I ought to be good to go when they arrive (on backorder). Tom

Don - do you have turn signals when braking? Initially I thought the LED rigs had three wires - tail, stop and turn. But, they apparently have just two...I can't get my head around the schematic for the setup without causing the center stop to flash when turn signal is on OR without cancelling the turn signal when braking...

Don...I didn't know of any other brake light switch (though was on on the MC...not, though...so much to learn)...I also was confused so I asked a question that didn't really make sense. Your illustration and description are great...I think I get it or at least will get it. Greg G - the supplier has 6V pos ground taillight assemblies available. No need to switch to 12v pos.

So I take it you are happy with them Don? I don't think he has the center stop light in 6V, so I'm staying stock there. Is the brake switch for the master cylinder?

Thanks for the quick reply...not sure if I understand just right regarding the LED setup I am thinking of using... I would be switching away from incandescent setup to all in one LED housing. Here are the new lights: http://www.cool-leds.com/1946-48-plymouth-6-volt.html There are three functions available in the lights in two circuits - 1) taillight and 2) stop / turn As my car is currently wired, I'd get taillights and turn signals out of these but I was looking for some wiring guidance - either in the aftermarket turn signal unit or within the trunk - to get the stoplight function working in the fenders. I suspect it's more complicated than it appears or the car would have brake lights in the fender already.

I am thinking of buying the Technostalgia LED tail light / turn signals. They come set up for tail light and stop / turn... With the center trunk brake light as my only brake light right now, is anyone aware of a way to wire the new taillights in so I get stop light action in the fenders? I have a stock 6 V, pos ground car with aftermarket turn signals. Thanks.

This is my thought process too. I think I got a good bleed out of it but there are lots of places for air to hide. Before I'm done, I'll switch the pins if I need to...figured now was a good time to ask. I have so much to learn.....

Is this an issue of brand - I bought Raybestos cylinders - or is pin length related to cylinder location / type? I have a double handicap - I don't know if work done by previous owners was right or not and I have never worked on old equipment / non-modern brakes before.

I have read varying opinions on using longer wheel cylinder shoe pins and wanted to find out what the proper front length is. After installing my new front wheel cylinders, I re-used the old = short pins that were in the existing cylinders. I thought I had read to do this. The cylinders came with longer pins - which I still have - and I wanted to find out if I should be using those. The new pins are 1.75" long. Is there a guideline for this? I am waiting on the Ammco brake tool to arrive on loan so I don't think I can judge my braking performance yet based on my home-made centering tool alone. However, I still have a soft pedal until I pump two times. I'm wondering if the cylinder pistons are traveling too far out toward the end of the cylinder?

The first removal method advice I received was remove the outer bearing, replace washer and nut and yank the drum until the seal and bearing come out of the hub. I tried this but it really felt barbaric. I couldn't help but believe I would be causing damage by doing it that way. Thus, the pliers and controlled pulling came into play. I'll use the drift punch (now that I know what one is and that I have one in my tools) for the other side. I like to do things right - when I know what "right" is! I have been wishing for a caliper today several times.

OK...with the bearing number and the Timken web site I was able to cross reference and compare sizes / seals until I'm fairly sure I got the right one. In any case, I'll know in three days when they arrive. Inside bearing is Timken 15123 Timken seal is 471831 - specs: Outside diameter is 2.447", Seal shaft is 1.75" and seal width is .374" Various other part numbers for the seal that cross reference with Timken 471831 are: PR1378 (Repco), 904485 (Badger), 843377M1 (Massey Ferguson) and National is 471831 also. SKF part number is 17320 Hope this is helpful to someone else later down the road and thanks for the replies.

More learning on my part. I figured I better come clean about using pliers to pull it out anyway.

I just called SKF and they have a dizzying array of shaft sizes in 2.5" diameter... 2.5" by... 1.7385 1.7386 1.7379 1.7381 1.7387 1.7395 1.7399 1.7334

Can one of you tell me the shaft size? I can't find any numbers stamped on my old one...somewhat chewed up due to pliers...it was difficult to get out. I probably pulled right where the numbers were. I think it measures at O.D. of 2.5" but I'm not 100% of my inside measurement...I think it's 1.75" but I can't get an exact measurement.

Don, No need to apologize at all - you are a very important source of information! Not even sure if I got the p/n from you in any event. I was mostly concerned with finding the correct dimensions and wondering about the height difference...thanks for that info, too. As I have noted often, many of the things I am doing while learning about my car are new to me and I have two goals: 1) learn how to do work on the old car and 2) not screw it up (or endanger myself). So, I end up reading a lot and usually have more questions when I'm done. hanks for the info - I'll check to find the right one.

Before starting my brake project I ordered two Napa part #17145 Oil Seals per some info found here... they do not fit. Too large diameter at 2.74" and 1/4" higher than what I pulled out... The one I took out is about 2 1/2" diameter and 1/4" high. Is this right? Is this a non-standard front wheel setup? Based on this info, can anyone help me determine what size wheel seal I need to order? Rock Auto part listed is 1/2" high...I don't think it will fit from height standpoint. The diameter also looks to be too wide... The couple of parts listings I have found don't seem to have front bearing seal listed...

I just can't get my brakes adjusted properly with my home made setup. Close but not quite right...I recalled seeing something about the site having one for rent, but, nothing I could find on how to do so. If anyone has a Miller or ammco brake tool they are willing to lend or rent please contact me. I really want to get on the road with good brakes.

When re-installing the new cylinder, how tight should the castle nut be on the anchor bolts be tightened? Is there a particular distance that should be measured for the eccentric length from the backing plate?

I find Rock Auto to be so confusing sometimes...I couldn't find that seal under any of the '46 - 48 Ply listing...and wasn't sure if another year / application was the same size...thanks for the cross reference. I'm not surprised that sites don't know if it's the right application for my car - but - it doesn't help boost my confidence that it'll fit. My Napa has them for $22.52 ship to store price.

Oops...1948 P-15...my profile used to have it...I had some trouble with the switch over & will fix that omission. I am a decent home mechanic, but this is my first old car and I want to learn to do more substantial projects and need lots of help. So I appreciate the attention and don't want to do anything to make it harder for me to get assistance!

Thank you, Don. I think it's only smart to clean & repack...why risk dirt getting in there? Am I missing any tasks while the brakes are apart? Is this also a fit? Not surprisingly, the site does not list the application... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Wheel-Seal-Front/_/N-6o268?itemIdentifier=487243_3214_4988_

So, now that I have the front wheel and drum off...I think it is smart to clean and repack the wheel bearings? Or is it? Should I do this now? What is the advice on this? What other tasks should be done while I have the brakes disassembled for new wheel cylinders? The lines and hoses are done already. What is the recommended grease? I believe Marine grease is in the manual...is regular hi-temp grease acceptable? Also, does anyone know the part number for the rear bearing seals at NAPA or elsewhere?