kevin h P15

Is the machinist still Eldon? 20 years ago he helped me on a project (thought he was old then). Did machine work on a tractor head. Even offered me (a 20 year old kid) to go in back and use his equipment to reline a clutch. Often wondered if they were still around in our modern age since I haven't visited Columbia in nearly 15 years.

Out here in Camarillo. Car runs well, but don't trust going too far on the current tires. Did see a really nice P15 club coupe (brown / smoke color) in town last week at the VFW Hall. Not sure if it is local or if owner is on the forum here.

I believe that the problem with a cold engine is condensation. A gasoline engine requires a very specific fuel to air mixture to burn properly. When vaporized fuel is pulled into a cold engine, some of that fuel condenses on the walls, head and top of piston. Since some of the fuel has condensed, the vapor concentration drops below the optimum level for combusion. In winter (in MN for example), the engine is much colder and so more condensation occurs and it takes longer for the engine to reach an optimum temperature so we need to use the choke longer. I believe this is one of the reasons the accelerator pump linkage has 3 positions. For cold weather more fuel condenses, so the pump is setup to over compensate. Air density (cold vs. hot weather) also plays a role here some how too... One last comment. The condensed fuel end up running down the cylinder walls into the crankcase as unburnt fuel. This, in addition to water condensation, sludges up oil and turns it dark. It also reduces the lubrication on the cylinder walls and increases wear at start up. Practically - get the engine to operating temperature as quickly as is reasonable and remove the choke. What I understand. Others may have better explainations or more insight. kevin

What part of LA? Can pick up location load? Might be able to help out if engine only. No real plans to head up that way soon, but who knows. PM me. Any rush? Can store here in Ventura CA for a while... kevin

If you want to try to fix it... A few years ago there was a post / link to repair broken tube. May actually be on this site. Basically buy a generic temperature sensor / gauge replacement. Must have jamb nut & sensor similar in size to plymouth to fit block. Drop the sensor bulb in iced water (this condenses the ether in the bulb to prevent escape). Cut new tube near back of new gauge, keep bulb & tubing (keep bulb in ice water until complete) . Solder a splice (piece of brass tube) to old P15 gauge near gauge back and new line (tubing). Test in boiling water & tweak needle pointer to match 212F. Will try to find the link back... kevin

It looks like the left photo from Shel_bizzy_48, so I guess it is the housing. The tube (90 degree part) has already been replaced & is in good shape. Thanks for the help Expect a PM Shel_bizzy_48... thanks for the advice all. kevin

I call it a water pump bypass elbow. This is the this fitting on top of the pump that connects to the top of the thermostat housing and has an outlet for the heater. My '47 P15 has stock water pump configuration (I think) and two weeks ago it corroded out so I have a few questions. 1) What is this piece called? 2) What cars / engines used this? 3) Later cars didn't have this. Any issue if I plate it off and change the thermostat housing? I have the heater bypassed already. 4) Does anyone have one for sale? thanks kevin

OK so - what makes thinning / reducing (enamel) paint gloss? Does it level better? Novice with painting, but have had pretty lucky results. thanks .. kevin

I am traveling to New Zealand the next few weeks (sister's wedding). All South Island - will be in Dunedin & Naseby for sure. Any recommendations on what to see? thanks kevin

I found an fellow in the desert that is shutting down his home auto repair shop. He has an OD tranny that what we think is should fit my P-15. The main casting as T96-1B W.G. Div, but no other ID. This is Borg-Werner (Werner Gear) transmission, but neither of us knew if it was for Mopar products. Any idea if it is correct? Junk yard fresh - 25 years ago. Is it worth the $150 he wants? thanks for the help. kevin

Dennis -- When you & your neighbor did this, did you push the starter button? Or did the engine roll over when he connected the ground cable? If the later, he was using his battery to just turn the starter - bypassing the 6V battery and your starter solenoid. This is a slick way to protect his & your electrical system. Only works if you enough to juice left for a hot spark. Also helps since the motor rolls over a little faster with the 12V. Reversed polarity works since starters have field & rotor connected internally - always spin the same direction. If you pushed the starter button, he was charging your battery backwards. So you were starting on positive 12V & then running on negative 6V (I think). For short time OK, but could heat up the battery & shorten life. Possibly burn gauges problems too (?). Neg to neg, pos to pos better even with 12 to 6v. my 2 cents.. kevin

I was under the impression that CCA effectively referred to the 'internal series resistance'. Since all lead acid batteries have the same voltage (6.3V in this case) & I = E/R a lower resistance shows what the peak current available. This has nothing to do with capacity - I think quoted in AH (at least for UPS applications) or 'reserve capacity" (roughly the same thing in auto apps). Physical size is roughly proportional to reserve capacity (larger is better;) ). The higher current, the faster the starter can turn (actually have more torque), provided that the electrial load resistance (starter motor & cables) are minimized (Just as oldmopar states). But if the capacity is low, you will have less time to crank. Bottom line - larger CCA battery may help a tough to start car turn a little faster, but only capacity will give more time to crank. Best bet - large cables & clean contacts. kevin

My '47 has vacuum wipers & there is a tube from the side below the heat deflecter that I use. I suspect the '53 has electric wipers - check anyway. Otherwise could use the vacuum advance tube - may need a tee though.

After reading the Mopar manual - it says that reduced oil pressure at idle is normal, provided that full pressure is achieved at road speeds. At idle - warm I get only 15psi. At 50mph (3spd) and warm I achieve 40psi & real warm I achieve only 35psi. Cold 43psi. This car only gets occasional drives around town (10miles per trip). Running 10w-30. Should I quit driving until engine work? What engine work is needed - cam bearings, mains, rods or ? Will using a 20w-50 extend life until rebuild. thanks kevin

Thanks for the advice. Mine is / will remain stock - except the color. I am shooting for appearance the 2-tones of the fiftys. Although the silver / black is very appealing. I would like the trunk lid to be the lower color. The '41 sedan works well with this. I will have to test with some tape to get the lines right. kevin