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rekbender

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  1. Like
    rekbender reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Those that do interiors   
    Pfaff and Consew user  here....most important is setting the properly serviced machine up for your sitting height for good treadle control.
    Yes they are sensitive but if the women in factories can run them so can us pansy ass men!
    There is a servo motor kit for those who cannot man up.
    Read, learn, watch video's and practice.... a lot. Go slow and easy ...you can do it!

  2. Like
    rekbender reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Oil Pans Types   
    My 51 Plymouth has baffles, my 53 Savoy did not.... my 52 Dodge had baffles.
    I have not seen baffles in the B series 1/2 thru 1 tons.
    Here is a factory picture out of the 1949-52 Dodge shop manual showing a baffled  oil pan.

  3. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from Conn47D24 in Chain case cover plate gasket   
    The oil pan has to come off to remove the engine mount plate as there is a bolt that goes in from behind.  This bolt goes through the aluminum oil pan plate that bolts to the bottom of the block in front of the front main bearing cap and actually threads into the motor mount plate. Before you remove this plate, mark the bolts still holding the plate after the timing chain cover is removed. The cam timing gear has to come off too. Don't forget to remove the flat head screw next to the locating dowel pin. While the motor mount plate is off, replace the core plug behind it in the block. To re-assemble, I would glue the plate gasket to the plate first with Copper Coat, or gasket sealer so it's firmly attached, then apply sealer to the block side of the gasket.  I'd put some extra silicone around the bottom where the motor mount plate bolts to the oil pan gasket plate. As I remember, there a three bolts that enter the water jacket so teflon tape these threads. I'd would take pictures at each step of the dis-assemblly and keep notes just to avoid aggravation. It's not really bad at all.
     




  4. Like
    rekbender reacted to Merle Coggins in Water pump removal - engine drain cock   
    Your block may be full of crud. Try removing the block petcock fully. If nothing comes out after that you'll have to poke around through the crud until coolant flows. And if there is a lot you may want to remove the core plugs and flush out the block.
  5. Like
    rekbender reacted to greg g in What is the limiting factor on mopar flathead rpm?   
    Why build a race engine for the street??? Factory peak hp was pulled at 3600, it falls off after that.  My machine shop guy suggested 10% over that was safe and a bit meaningful, over that was just more noise.  Also suggested 80/85 % of 3600 was a safe cruise all day speed assuming good engine condition and proper oil pressure. So rather than build for a peak rpm, why not build to usable street able range.  These are torque engines not hp engines.  Torque gets you going, hp keeps you going...  My slightly modified 230, accelerates fairly briskly, has plenty of power to pass and climb hills, and cruises nicely at 65 with overdrive and gets 20+ mpg in the bargain. Personally there isn't much more I require of a 72 year old car.  
  6. Like
    rekbender reacted to sser2 in What is the limiting factor on mopar flathead rpm?   
    High reciprocating mass (pistons and upper parts of connecting rods) combined with long stroke. These conditions create high inertial forces that put strain on rod bearings. Forces at rod bearings are proportionate to square of rotational speed, so at 4,000 rpm the load on rod bearings is 4 times that at 2,000 rpm. Excessive force squeezes out oil film, leading to bearing failure.
     
    Modern engines can run at higher speeds because they use lighter pistons and rods, and because they are generally short stroke.
  7. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from knuckleharley in 230 dodge w/Edgy aluminum head, problems   
    The problem may be the wrong thermostat.  The thermostat housing in the picture is a by-pass housing like the ones used on earlier blocks without the internal bypass. I've seen three different designs for these housings and each requires a unique thermostat (the old bellows type that don't work in a pressurized system) to block the by-pass passage in the front of the housing when the engine is warm and the thermostat open. If the by-pass passage isn't blocked, too much coolant by-passes the radiator and just circulates within the block. A later housing made for a wax pellet type thermostat may cure the problem. I ran into this  a while back and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. If the housing in the picture is a P18 type, Stant makes a thermostat/adapter package that will work  correctly in the P18 housing. Hope this  helps.

  8. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from knuckleharley in 230 dodge w/Edgy aluminum head, problems   
    The problem may be the wrong thermostat.  The thermostat housing in the picture is a by-pass housing like the ones used on earlier blocks without the internal bypass. I've seen three different designs for these housings and each requires a unique thermostat (the old bellows type that don't work in a pressurized system) to block the by-pass passage in the front of the housing when the engine is warm and the thermostat open. If the by-pass passage isn't blocked, too much coolant by-passes the radiator and just circulates within the block. A later housing made for a wax pellet type thermostat may cure the problem. I ran into this  a while back and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. If the housing in the picture is a P18 type, Stant makes a thermostat/adapter package that will work  correctly in the P18 housing. Hope this  helps.

  9. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from knuckleharley in 230 dodge w/Edgy aluminum head, problems   
    The problem may be the wrong thermostat.  The thermostat housing in the picture is a by-pass housing like the ones used on earlier blocks without the internal bypass. I've seen three different designs for these housings and each requires a unique thermostat (the old bellows type that don't work in a pressurized system) to block the by-pass passage in the front of the housing when the engine is warm and the thermostat open. If the by-pass passage isn't blocked, too much coolant by-passes the radiator and just circulates within the block. A later housing made for a wax pellet type thermostat may cure the problem. I ran into this  a while back and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. If the housing in the picture is a P18 type, Stant makes a thermostat/adapter package that will work  correctly in the P18 housing. Hope this  helps.

  10. Like
    rekbender reacted to knuckleharley in Body mounts   
    Ahhhh,with that attitude,you will go a long ways with your old car obsession!
     
    I usually just lie to myself about costs.
  11. Like
    rekbender reacted to Plymouthy Adams in Body mounts   
    as with most of this stuff...turn over in the old Mopar world seems to be slow....low production runs on stuff that is made special as numbers kept to a minimum and keeps the cost high and availability often questionable.   Price of playing the game...
  12. Like
    rekbender reacted to Plymouthy Adams in Voltage Regulator   
    as the ampmeter is just a visual tool to show flow of current your unit could or could not be anywhere close to accurate as basically none are calibrated.  The are built to deflect X distance on the gauge for max amp rating shown on your gauge scale.  You could well be running normal and the only way to determine that is placing a second amp meter inline with the battery and verify the actual charge/discharge rate of your dash mounted indicator...again this things are not accurate nor are they exact linear BUT...you should not be bouncing around a lot either..have you checked the very wire connections on the meter or regulator.   If the test installed meter bounces also....I would look to the dirty contacts and loose connections.
  13. Thanks
    rekbender got a reaction from JBNeal in owner/license info on sides of trucks   
    My '37 Plymouth PT50 had the tire size and class stenciled on the bed side. It had been parked since 1952 in a building in Indiana. Photo is from around 1980.

  14. Like
    rekbender reacted to Dodgeb4ya in 6V Battery Cables   
    Battery cable wire strand count is important when buying cables... cheap cables...less copper less fine copper wire strand count meaning less current carrying capability causing slower starter cranking power.
    Buy good quality battery cables like fabbed up welding cable with commercial quality terminal ends.
    Some replacement cables look big but that's because of the thick outer rubber/plastic covering.
  15. Like
    rekbender reacted to Merle Coggins in Excessive engine noise   
    Before you start tearing things apart, get a mechanics stethoscope and listen around to see where the noise is coming from. A broom handle or long dowel rod will work too, but the mechanics stethoscope is much easier to use. Touching different parts of the engine while running you will hear many noises. When you get to the one that sounds like what you are hearing, only louder, you have found the source of your noise. 
     
    You can find a mechanics stethoscope for $8-$15 on Amazon, and you can probably find one locally too. I don’t know how well they’ll work with hearing aids. May need to remove those first. 
  16. Like
    rekbender reacted to P15-D24 in Classified ads   
    Just respounded to your note. After you fill out the form with your ad info and click on “Save Ad” a new page appears with your billing address, check box to agree on Terms and conditions and a button for “Place order and pay”. Clicking on “Place order and pay” button will take you to the credit card processor web site. Make your payment and that’s it. 
  17. Like
    rekbender reacted to rallyace in Thermostat Modifcations   
    And your car will never tell you "not tonight I have a headache".
     
  18. Thanks
    rekbender got a reaction from Conn47D24 in Thermostat Modifcations   
    I've done this on both thermostats used on a '41Mercury flathead, as well as the thermostat I just replaced in a  Dodge 318. It makes filling block much quicker without having to burp the cooling system repeatedly. You will also see this hole on some thermostats like this Nissan I found in my junk stash. This one even has a little valve to block the hole when coolant is flowing. Some foreign engines ( Renault Alliance) were a real problem to get the the trapped air out of the system. I don't think bypassing this small amount of coolant hurts a thing, although I've never tried it on a MOPAR flathead.


  19. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from FlashBuddy in Job Rated Clipboard w Notepad for Truck   
    Thanks for the link. I thought mine was probably a dealer handout, but never realized it was a direct sales promotion.
  20. Like
    rekbender reacted to FlashBuddy in Job Rated Clipboard w Notepad for Truck   
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/163174483440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
     
  21. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from HotRodTractor in The rarest part ever?   
    This may not qualify as a '48 to '53 option, but I found this little Job Rated accessory screw on clipboard about 15 years ago at a swap meet. I never screwed it to the dash, just used a magnet instead. When I sold the B4C in 2007, I kept the clipboard. I think the little paper pad is original. 

  22. Like
    rekbender reacted to Wiggo in Fulton visor? No thanks!   
    OK, so personally I think a Fulton visor on one of these cars is as cool as. But a decent one on Ebay is around $600, and by the time I get that to the UK, pay shipping, import duty, taxes etc I'm up at around $850-900 and that's before I paint the thing!
     
    However, a 1998 Honda Civic hatchback has a rather useful sheet metal tailgate spoiler...
     

     
    So I bought two of them from a scrap yard, removed the plastic parts and the pressed steel liner (only held in with mastic and a couple of spot welds) and cut them to shape. Here's my lad showing that an electrician has no concept of what tools to use to deburr sheet metal after cutting it with a grinder (yes, that's the edge of a chisel):
     

     
    On the other hand, he did prove that he can weld very thin sheet metal with my cheap gasless MIG welder...
     

     
    Et voila! One homemade $60 visor!
     

  23. Like
    rekbender got a reaction from ddesjard in 50 Dodge Coronet fuel pump   
    This is just a guess. but I think the pump should look something like this. Note the stud that screws into the base for the heat shield. The fuel pump on my P18 looked like this one, but with a metal cover on the bottom that did away with the sediment bowl. I think it was correct for the '49. I rebuilt this one because I like the visible bowl and screen arrangement that can be cleaned. I bought a Dodge engine years ago that had a combination fuel pump/vacuum pump. It also had the off-set stud and heat shield. I have a Carter fuel pump with the stud in the center, and there are a number of heat shield variations. The 2nd picture is a heat shield mounted to an earlier fuel pump.  Someone here can tell you for sure.


  24. Thanks
    rekbender got a reaction from Don Coatney in 230 dodge rear main seal   
    This is a 1954 D51 block with a 218 crank and no external rear main seal holes. You'll have to remove the pan, loosen the front three main caps, and remove the rear main cap. Pry up on the flywheel (1st picture) to take pressure off the upper half of the seal (it's captured between the crank and block) and give yourself some room to pry the seal half out (2nd picture). 3rd picture is the new two piece seal. Lubricate and slide the new half seal in around the crank journal (4th picture is new half installed). Install the other half in the main bearing cap and reassemble. Don't forget to check the crankshaft end play .003"-.007" (5th picture). If the end play is too great, this is the time to replace the bearing. This is a much better design than the bolt on seal. Unfortunately, you can't use this design in the earlier blocks.





  25. Like
    rekbender reacted to linus6948 in Carter B&B help   
    Call or email Demetrius he would have it if anyone would, he is a "Prince Among Men" in my book a super nice guy.
    EMAIL: DKOLIORAD63@HOTMAIL.COM
    cell: 727 505-7901
     
    http://www.oldcarbrebuild.com/
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