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Everything posted by rekbender

  1. Topping up gearbox oil

    Thanks for the info. The oil I used after replacing the bronze stop rings is rated GL5, although the label on the back says it's a suitable replacement for GL2/3/4. I purchased GL1 at Tractor Supply ($17.99 for 2 gallons) this afternoon, and since the car the car is on the rack now for it's pre-season servicing, I will drain the transmission and fill it with GL1 tomorrow. These were my last two NOS stop rings so I hope to make them last.
  2. Topping up gearbox oil

    Is it the white metal synchronizer stop rings that are affected? How about the brass stop rings in the earlier transmissions? Any other information GL! versus GL4/5 would be helpful. I had a brass second gear stop ring fail suddenly and completely in my '49 transmission last summer - is this the result of the wrong oil? I replaced the stop rings and it shifts great, but I'm afraid of what's in the transmission now.
  3. Door latch and striker for 52 plymouth

    Just a guess, but I think the latch (lock) was painted. Yesterday I removed the latch from a 1951 or 1952 Plymouth convertible door. The inner door frame still has it's original mint green or Nile green paint. It appears that they assembled as much of the door as they could before painting, The latch goes in first, then the rear glass channel. The latch remote control rod was assembled to the door shell as well as the window regulator regulator, the door hinges were attached to the shell, and the door was painted. These components all were painted on this door. Then door glass, stops, vent window, handle, lock, even the little wedge on the door jamb were attached to the painted door. If the door and striker were adjusted prior to painting, I'd guess the striker was painted as well, but maybe not if final door adjustments had to be made later. There are traces of green paint on the latch rotor, but only on one tooth which makes sense as only it was exposed. If this door was a later replacement, who knows. There has to be someone here with an original paint car who can shed more light on this.
  4. Driver side door lock assy.

    I forgot this picture - a tiny set screw and jam nut holds the cover. With my old, stiff fingers, I dropped the screw twice and almost lost it.
  5. Driver side door lock assy.

    I replaced my driver's door latch rotor yesterday with the parts from an ebay Roto-Lokit kit yesterday - what an improvement! I went a little further and removed the latch so I could repair the protruding bar that slides over the striker and supports the door when closed. Both the bar and striker were pretty badly worn and the door didn't close or open smoothly. I welded up the worn area, and ground and filed it smooth again. The last step was installing a new striker. The door opens and latches like new. You might want to remove the latch and check for broken springs on the pawl that locks the rotor. I noticed the broken spring on a spare latch I'd planned to use. Luckily, the latch from the door was fine. Well worth the effort, just follow the directions - I used a cutoff wheel to remove the cap and rotor.
  6. Vacuum Advance part number? 1948 Dodge coupe

    Point well taken. I've probably been lucky, but the NOS vacuum chamber on my '36 Plymouth has been functioning since spring of 2009. I put another NOS chamber on the IAT distributor ('51 engine) in my '49 last spring - so far so good. I would NOT rely on an NOS or NORS fuel pump today. Both of my fuel pumps have modern, alcohol resistant diaphragms installed. The raised loop in the steel vacuum line from the carburetor is supposed to help keep liquid fuel from collecting in the line, and the line is evacuated each time the engine is started, so maybe this has helped. I just bought spare IAT-2023RG NOS chamber on ebay last week - it was too cheap to pass up - which I plan to carry in the '49.
  7. Vacuum Advance part number? 1948 Dodge coupe

    My Auto-lite book shows their part number as VC-2082R. There are two of these NOS on ebay right now. Bernbaum lists them as well. I've had great results with NOS Auto-lite.
  8. Replacement Radiator Cap Source

    This old Stant Everseal box shows an R-1 radiator cap as correct for a 1938 Chrysler. Unfortunately, it's full of R-2's.
  9. Thanks for the download - excellent information.
  10. According to my Autolite Maintenance and Operation Manual (1950), generators GDZ-4801, A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H, K,Q,R,T all share the same specs. Output given is 8V, 35 Amps max, at 2000 RPM max. Regulator is VRP-4001A. Maybe the letter suffix has something to do with the pulley size or design, possibly the end frames were indexed differently? I have a GDZ-4801-A I could take some pictures of.
  11. Coffee cup holders

    Made this for my '36 Plymouth.
  12. Bellhousing details for transmission swaps

    I bought a truck load of '35 Plymouth parts, so I thought I'd bring this thread back and add this 1935 Plymouth PJ bell housing. Very similar to the '36, but the '35 has an additional boss at the top to accommodate the starter pedal linkage, no screen riveted over the cooling vents at the top as was added for '36, and two tapped bolt holes in the right trans mount bracket for an exhaust pipe hanger. CASTING # 636140-5 1935 PLYMOUTH PJ ANGLED BRACKETS FOR MOUNTS 7 3/4" DEPTH 4 1/8" HOLE
  13. Help !! truck shipping

    Give Annamarie a call. She has shipped two cars for me in 2017 and both went with no problems. She knows her guys, gets it done promptly, and and is very professional. Annamarie Wilcox My Car Transport Office: 847-426-3104 Cell: 813-484-6070 Email: mycar@yourcartransport.com Web: www.yourcartransport.com Member of The Better Business Bureau
  14. air cleaner conversion

    Here are some different versions of the oil bath air cleaners. I think the one on the left is the best looking, most compact of the four. To answer your questions, the housing for the filter mesh must be removed from the lid, and then as Jerry Roberts said, take your aid cleaner top and bottom to a parts store and try different paper elements until you find one that will fit. I don't know the year of my modified air cleaner - probably late '40's or early '50's. The element in that one is a Purolator A14380. It looks like an air compressor filter.
  15. air cleaner conversion

    bluefoxamazone, I really like the the way your convertible looks, it appears to be so stock and untouched - just my kind of car. The factory oil bath air cleaner isn't particularly beautiful, but form does follow function. I personally would keep the factory unit, or at least the factory look if I were running a single carburetor. Here are some pictures of a modified factory oil bath from my collection of stuff. Yes, the filter mesh was gutted, but when assembled it looks stock. Maybe the best of both worlds, maybe not. At least, it's easy to service.
  16. Notches in Pan Gasket?

    The notches fit around the ridges (red arrows) on the rear main bearing cap and the aluminum oil pan plate in front of the front main bearing cap. Adhere the gasket to the block and the cork strips to the pan front and rear retainers. Be sure to leave about 1/8" of the cork strips extending past to bottom pan to insure a tight fit at these corners. Put a dab of silicone on each of the notches before you install the pan.
  17. Sub Zero Challenge

    Does anyone else run a Pines winter front when it's cold?
  18. 35/36 dash

    I've owned both a '35 and '36 plymouth coupe. They looked quite similar, but there were many differences between the bodies in the cowl, roof, windshield, windows, doors, etc. , even the steering column supports were different- the '36 was referred to as a new body. The '36 convertible used the '35 convertible cowl, but the convertible dashes were different from the closed cars. The swap could probably be done, but I'd stay with a '36 dash. 1st pic is '35, 2nd is '36.
  19. Starting my truck in cold weather

    In addition to following P15-D24's excellent advice, both my P2 and P18 are kept on battery tenders. The P2 has a fuel pump with a priming lever, while the P18 has an electric priming pump. With the battery always fully charged and a float chamber full of today's fuel, both cars start almost immediately.
  20. Chain case cover plate gasket

    The oil pan has to come off to remove the engine mount plate as there is a bolt that goes in from behind. This bolt goes through the aluminum oil pan plate that bolts to the bottom of the block in front of the front main bearing cap and actually threads into the motor mount plate. Before you remove this plate, mark the bolts still holding the plate after the timing chain cover is removed. The cam timing gear has to come off too. Don't forget to remove the flat head screw next to the locating dowel pin. While the motor mount plate is off, replace the core plug behind it in the block. To re-assemble, I would glue the plate gasket to the plate first with Copper Coat, or gasket sealer so it's firmly attached, then apply sealer to the block side of the gasket. I'd put some extra silicone around the bottom where the motor mount plate bolts to the oil pan gasket plate. As I remember, there a three bolts that enter the water jacket so teflon tape these threads. I'd would take pictures at each step of the dis-assemblly and keep notes just to avoid aggravation. It's not really bad at all.
  21. gasket oil pressure relief valve

    This gasket is included in the Fel-Pro overhaul gasket set. It's a heavy composite material, thickness measures .030". If you can't find something that will work, I'll put one in an envelope and mail it to you.
  22. Shaving a 218 head vs. a standard 230 head?

    gregg g, the first five pictures below are of the heads in the same order as the list below. The D42 head is not labeled - it appears at the top with the P2 head below, and is the one that has just been cut. As a note, the D42 head was cut .090" - this resulted in an average chamber volume of 75.4, just a coincidence it's same as the late 50's LD1 chamber volume. As I remember, there was still over .100" clearance above the valves to the head so a .100" cut shouldn't be a problem. With this much of a cut, I don't know what happens volumetric efficiency or how thin the head becomes. This was an experiment to find out if a shaved 230 head would raise the compression on a 218. Not enough of an advantage to justify the cost, especially if the universal copper gasket were used. Might be worthwhile on a 230 if the chamber doesn't become too restrictive - the computed compression ratio on a .030 over 230 with this head and the correct gasket was 7.8:1 P2 head no. 632955-2 89.5 cc P19 head no. 1311810-5 89.2 cc D30 head no. 1120804-2 95.5 cc D42 head no. 1326386-1 96.7 cc LD1 head no. 1676337-2 75.4 cc The last four are the difference in the way the gaskets conform to the chamber around the exhaust valve and between the combustion chambers. Here are the part numbers I've seen for the tighter chamber head gaskets: Felpro no. 7547 steel Fitzgerald no. 0587 steel wizard no. R6057 steel - actually a Felpro 7547 Victor no. V1066 copper Fitzgerald no. 0492 steel - for early non-internal bypass head
  23. Shaving a 218 head vs. a standard 230 head?

    Early last spring, I compared the chamber volumes on three heads I had. The head numbers are listed by the blocks they were removed from and may not be correct for the blocks. Average chamber volumes were: P2 head no. 632955-2 89.5 cc P19 head no. 1311810-5 89.2 cc D30 head no. 1120804-2 95.5 cc D42 head no. 1326386-1 96.7 cc The P19 and D32 heads had a different chamber shape - the chamber fit much closer to the exhaust valve and required a head gasket that fit accordingly. I just checked a late 50's head no. 1676337-2 that I found two weeks ago. This is the 230 head with a nominal 8 to1 compression ratio. It's chamber volume averaged 75.4 cc. From this limited information, it does appear that the 230 heads have a greater chamber volume than the 218's, although the late 50's head seems to provide a small increase in compression if used on a 218. I also cc'd a used (compressed) universal copper head gasket and a used Fitzgerald 0587 head gasket that properly conformed to the P19 and D42 chambers. The copper gasket gave away an additional 4cc to the Fitzgerald so this seems to be critical when computing compression ratios. If anyone is interested, I can post pictures of the different chamber shapes and gaskets.

    I finally found pictures of the owner/operator card on ebay. Neil, from The Old Plymouth Cafe, was nice enough to send me a picture of the back of the card, as well as the front that he'd already posted. This fellow couldn't have been more helpful. Thanks, Neil.

    There isn't much information available on the MOPAR Auto Stop accessory hill holder offered in the early 1950's, so I thought I'd add a little more here. My Auto Stop was listed on Ebay a month ago and appeared complete. The seller accepted what I thought was a reasonable offer so I took a chance and bought it. It was all there, right down to the little envelope that included the installation pieces, missing only the driver instruction card. It even included an extra throttle switch for early V8 equipped cars and an extra gear shift lever switch. Think of it as a 6 volt line lock or roll control. It consists of a gear shift lever button (looks like a door bell button) with an armored cable, a control relay, a throttle linkage switch, and the 6 volt solenoid valve. The gear shift lever switch monetarily completes the circuit through the rear wheel brake solenoid valve and activates the control relay on the fire wall at the same time. The solenoid valve then remains closed until the accelerator pedal is depressed. When brake fluid is the locked under pressure to the rear wheels, a parallel fluid circuit with a ball check in the solenoid valve allows more fluid to enter the circuit if more pressure is needed to hold the car on a steep hill, or if you simply want to activate the Auto Stop before stopping completely. Now you can take your foot off the brake pedal and prepare for the up hill start. An over the center type switch is placed in the throttle linkage and the pressure of the throttle return spring on the linkage keeps it closed. The control relay is grounded through this throttle switch so when the gas pedal is pushed, pressure on the linkage is decreased and the throttle switch opens. The control relay de-activates and you're on your way. You, the driver, are required to have the clutch pedal out near the friction point, and bring the engine RPM up quickly to avoid rolling backward. I've been practicing this week and have just about mastered the technique. For some reason it feels counter-intuitive at first, but not for long. My biggest problem has been remembering to shift into low gear after I push the shift lever button to set the Auto Stop. It's hard for an old dog to master a new trick.