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rekbender last won the day on January 21

rekbender had the most liked content!

About rekbender

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milford OH
  • Interests
    Anything old and mechanical that can be taken apart.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth Coupe, 1949 Plymouth convertible, 1970 Dodge A108 Sportsman van

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  • Biography
    45 year MOPAR fan
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    Antique cars, anything mechanical, dogs

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  1. rekbender

    Heater Model 75

    I have an NOS heater core that I bought I for a Model 65 heater years ago and never used. The same measurements as yours. Honestly though, it doesn't look any better than yours. $75.00 and shipping. PM if your interested and I will pressure test it.
  2. rekbender

    Thinking About Selling Most of My Parts

    Back in January, I bought a large lot of '35 PJ parts from a hot rodded car. The owner had tried for months to sell the entire lot on CL with little interest and no takers. I advertised them here (some interest) as well as my local CL, but again, no sale. I finally posted everything to a Hemmings internet parts ad. They featured my ad one Saturday on their Hemmings Daily email and my parts sold that week. Don't overlook Hemmings - their on line ads not expensive. Parts lots can be hard to sell unless they are are really cheap (I love cheap parts lots). Do list them here on p15-d24 and see what happens. Are you willing to sell individual items? Yeah, it's a lot more work that way.
  3. rekbender

    Thermostat Modifcations

    I've done this on both thermostats used on a '41Mercury flathead, as well as the thermostat I just replaced in a Dodge 318. It makes filling block much quicker without having to burp the cooling system repeatedly. You will also see this hole on some thermostats like this Nissan I found in my junk stash. This one even has a little valve to block the hole when coolant is flowing. Some foreign engines ( Renault Alliance) were a real problem to get the the trapped air out of the system. I don't think bypassing this small amount of coolant hurts a thing, although I've never tried it on a MOPAR flathead.
  4. Thanks for the link. I thought mine was probably a dealer handout, but never realized it was a direct sales promotion.
  5. rekbender

    The rarest part ever?

    This may not qualify as a '48 to '53 option, but I found this little Job Rated accessory screw on clipboard about 15 years ago at a swap meet. I never screwed it to the dash, just used a magnet instead. When I sold the B4C in 2007, I kept the clipboard. I think the little paper pad is original.
  6. rekbender

    50 Dodge Coronet fuel pump

    This is just a guess. but I think the pump should look something like this. Note the stud that screws into the base for the heat shield. The fuel pump on my P18 looked like this one, but with a metal cover on the bottom that did away with the sediment bowl. I think it was correct for the '49. I rebuilt this one because I like the visible bowl and screen arrangement that can be cleaned. I bought a Dodge engine years ago that had a combination fuel pump/vacuum pump. It also had the off-set stud and heat shield. I have a Carter fuel pump with the stud in the center, and there are a number of heat shield variations. The 2nd picture is a heat shield mounted to an earlier fuel pump. Someone here can tell you for sure.
  7. rekbender

    230 dodge rear main seal

    This is a 1954 D51 block with a 218 crank and no external rear main seal holes. You'll have to remove the pan, loosen the front three main caps, and remove the rear main cap. Pry up on the flywheel (1st picture) to take pressure off the upper half of the seal (it's captured between the crank and block) and give yourself some room to pry the seal half out (2nd picture). 3rd picture is the new two piece seal. Lubricate and slide the new half seal in around the crank journal (4th picture is new half installed). Install the other half in the main bearing cap and reassemble. Don't forget to check the crankshaft end play .003"-.007" (5th picture). If the end play is too great, this is the time to replace the bearing. This is a much better design than the bolt on seal. Unfortunately, you can't use this design in the earlier blocks.
  8. rekbender

    Vent window

    Here's a dis-assembled convertible vent window. Is the top serrated stop washer loose? I've had some pretty good success with a penetrant called Free All when used repeatedly over three or four days. Keep spraying and tapping with a brass hammer.
  9. rekbender

    Time Mark

    The marks will look something like this.
  10. rekbender

    what are the rules cruise in/ car shows

    Their loss, not yours. I'll bet your truck would have caught the attention every kid there, and I 'll bet you would have let them climb on the running boards and sit in the cab, push the pedals and work the gear shift. I go to a local Friday cruise-in with three or for other guys. We all let the kids (boys and girls) examine our cars, blow the horn, and pose for pictures in the driver's seat. The pure glee they express is better than any trophy. I have vivid memories of my best childhood friend's father's late '40's Chevrolet dump truck because his dad let us play all over it.
  11. rekbender

    How to bench test a fuel gauge.

    Did your solve your fuel gauge problem? I found this schematic and directions for testing a three wire Auto-Lite gas gauge (Dodge '39-'48) in a '49 Motor manual. It appears that current flows to the heating coil post at the rear center of the gauge, through the contacts on both the full and empty sides of the gauge, through the two bi-metallic strips, and then through the two wires to the sender. If I'm reading them right, the directions say pulsing current should be present at tank sender connections terminal 1 and terminal 2 as the bi-metallic strips heat and cool, and open and close the contacts. Depending on where the tank arm is on the resistance, the strips on both side of the gauge reach a different, but steady state temperature, and move the gauge needle. The gauge doesn't ground through the dash, only through the tank resistance. With current to the gauge, clean gauge contacts, two good wires to the tank unit, and a good tank unit with a good ground, everything ought to work!
  12. rekbender

    Wiper set-up problem identifcation? Help :-)

    Had my '49 convertible out today, so I tee'd a vacuum gauge into the wiper hose. With the cold engine idling (choke still on), and a damp windshield, the wipers cycled about 80 full wipes per minute at full speed. The vacuum gauge read 18 in. Hg or 45 cm Hg. The wiper motor on or off had no effect on the gauge reading. A few years ago I bench tested a rebuilt Trico KSB wiper motor for my '36 Plymouth. It ran at about 110 full wipes per minute at 16in. Hg with no load on the bench, and about 84 with the wipes on the windshield, so 80 may be a reasonable number for a motor in good condition.
  13. rekbender

    1950 P20 218 put a 1956 P28 Head on it.

    You might want to check out this thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/45614-shaving-a-218-head-vs-a-standard-230-head/
  14. rekbender


    When the carb was apart, did you remove or disturb the throttle butterfly valve? I had the same problem with a B&B C6E2.The engine would idle on the adjustment screw, but the mixture screw had no affect - it idled best with the screw all the way in. Poor transition off idle - stumble, hesitation, stalling, fouled plugs. I tried everything I could think of - Installed a carb kit, checked fuel pressure, changed the float level, different initial timing, a different distributor, nothing helped. I finally read the rebuild instructions in an old Motor manuel. They stressed the importance of correctly centering the throttle butterfly making sure the transfer slot was completely covered. The C stamped in the butterfly visible from the bottom and toward the idle port. The C6E2 had been apart before. Sure enough, the transfer slot was partially exposed with the butterfly completely closed. This condition bypasses the the idle port/ mixture screw completely and dumps air/fuel emulsion below the butterfly. It's only supposed to happen off idle to supply extra fuel until the main metering system has sufficient air velocity to take over. I was not able to adjust the butterfly correctly as I think it had the wrong butterfly. Luckily, I had a parts carb, swapped butterflies, and that butterfly adjusted perfectly and the carb worked fine. If the shaft is loose in the throttle body, the butterfly may not center correctly. Hope this helps. The first picture shows the idle port and transfer slot below it. The second picture is the throttle butterfly closed and the transfer slot covered. The third picture is problem butterfly that couldn't be centered to close enough to block the slot
  15. rekbender

    NAPA Signal Flasher

    I don't want to hijack the thread, but I had the same problem with two identical canceling NOS Pathfinder 35768, 7 wire directional signal switches. One on a Ford and the other on my P18. I have a box of NOS 6V flashers that would flash the lamps, but none would flash the green indicator correctly - the green light would either stay on all the time or flash all the time the ignition was on. I gave up using the 3rd indicator terminal on the flasher and instead, soldered a 6 amp 50 volt diode to the wire to the right front and the wire to the left front directional lamps (positive diode leads to the lamp wires) and soldered the negative diode leads together, along with the wire to the green indicator. Now either directional lamp flashes the indicator correctly, with no feedback to the other side. It's work great for over a year. You could use the same set up to flash the factory indicator in the speedo as well. The correct 6V flasher for this Pathfinder (Auto Lamp 9000) switch is Pathfinder (Tungsol) 229D. I found one on eBay, but haven't needed to try it.

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