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rekbender

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Everything posted by rekbender

  1. My kind of car. My favorites are unrestored survivors. Just my preference, but I'd have to leave it just as it is!
  2. This appears to be the same draft tube chamber that you have, chamber only with a mesh filter, no real tube, but a crimped, vented cap on the end of the short tube. I assumed it was factory. The engine was a D42 removed from a pick up.
  3. I have a front sump pan, oil pick up, and front sump dip stick (dip stick tube threads into a boss on the front of the pan) that I removed from a truck engine. I can dig it out of storage and take some pics if you need them.
  4. About six years ago, I answered a CL ad for a '53 or '54 Corvette project, stored for years in a building just a few miles away. When I arrived, I saw a bunch of other cars that had been stored there as well, including a 1934 Desoto Airflow. The car was remarkably complete (the fender skirts were in the back seat), but had been sitting a long, long time, and would need everything. Although the owner's wife had agreed to meet me at noon, a Corvette dealer had shown up at 10:00 AM and she had already sold him the Vette and the Airflow. She let the Airflow go for $7000.00. It was a fascinating automobile. I would have bought it on the spot. And yes, it did have overdrive as I remember. So advanced and so cool!
  5. Great car, looks straight, complete, and unmolested. It appears to be a P2 - bright sergeant stripes on the headlamp stanchions, wood grain trim around the windows and on glove boxes (one fake ha ha), two wipers, should have brown rubber starter pedal pad and other rubber interior parts. These are wonderful drivers as they are small, steering is light, and the hydraulic brakes are adequate for a 2700 lb. car. Mechanical parts are available, although some are '36 only as this was a one year only body/chassis. Trim parts are expensive and somewhat had to find. The only change I made to my unrestored P2 coupe was a replacement L230 '58 Dodge flathead engine for the blown 201. It runs like a small V8. You've made a good choice.
  6. Here is a picture of the cable operated convertible top mechanism and screw jacks I removed from a '51 Plymouth convertible that was being scrapped. It consists of a reversible electric motor, two drive cables and two worm gear screw jacks. No hydraulics. I'm guessing that yours is similar. My 1949-1954 Plymouth Service Manual covers this mechanism briefly. I can copy and post the pages if you need them.
  7. JerseyHarold, Thanks for the info. I'll try it later this afternoon.
  8. I pulled my non-working Model 807 radio last Monday to adjust the cowl vent. Since its was out, why not open it up and have a look? The "OFF" and "DIAL" pushbuttons weren't working - the soft metal arms that work the switches had been bent, so I straightened them, and the pulled the vibrator and tubes to clean the pins. When it was back together, it actually turned on, hummed, and started to play. Someone had the pointer string loop wrapped backwards around the dial stem, and that was corrected. Two new light bulbs and the dial lit up.There was a small screw on the bottom of the chassis that looked like and adjustment of some sort, so I tuned in a powerful station (WLW) and turned the screw - it played louder. Wow! There appear to be two exterior antenna trim screws, but only the bottom screw had any effect (the trim instruction label is mostly missing). The speaker output was badly distorted so I replaced it with an old Ford 4Ω speaker. With the antenna trimmed, the radio has been playing on the bench for four hours now. Adjusting the preset buttons has no effect, so I'm limited to manual tuning. This is way more than I ever expected from the old radio, so it's going back in dash for the time being. At this point, I don't have the heart to alter it. Any advice on a procedure for setting the preset buttons?
  9. The first picture is the cable operated valve that was on my B4C. The second is the valve on my P18. Seems to be a fairly common valve . I've seen them NOS on eBay, but expensive. I may have an old used one if you can't find a new valve.
  10. This was my 1953 B4C. It had belonged to a horse farm in Kentucky. I sold it in 2009 to purchase a '36 Plymouth coupe. Has anyone seen this truck?
  11. This is just a thought. You mentioned in your original post that the spreader spring was on the second gear synchro. The service manual shows it behind the high gear stop ring and the clutch gear hub, not second. i still have the '51 transmission in pieces, so I put the spreader ring behind the second gear stop ring and assembled the clutch gear to the main shaft. It could be assembled with the spring tabs either toward the clutch hub, or toward the stop ring. Either way, it does interfere the with the stop ring free movement, and would become deformed if the clutch gear snap ring was installed. Did your transmission ever shift smoothly into second? First picture is spreader spring in the clutch hub hi gear side where it belongs. 2nd picture is the spring itself.
  12. That spring is called a spreader spring. I've seen this in a 1951 Plymouth transmission. I don't remember my '49 synchro as having it, although the stop rings were the same. The only picture I can find is in the 1946-1954 Plymouth service manual, and only in the overall parts breakdown picture. They don't mention the spreader spring at all in the synchro section, or the main shaft assembly section. The OD section does show two adapter (mid-plate) screws.
  13. Nice car. My first car was a '54 Dodge 4 door. A neighbor (original owner) gave it to me with just under 100K in 1965. Great dash, tutone green, 241/powerflite, bullet proof. I still miss that car. I'm jealous.
  14. The problem may be the wrong thermostat. The thermostat housing in the picture is a by-pass housing like the ones used on earlier blocks without the internal bypass. I've seen three different designs for these housings and each requires a unique thermostat (the old bellows type that don't work in a pressurized system) to block the by-pass passage in the front of the housing when the engine is warm and the thermostat open. If the by-pass passage isn't blocked, too much coolant by-passes the radiator and just circulates within the block. A later housing made for a wax pellet type thermostat may cure the problem. I ran into this a while back and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. If the housing in the picture is a P18 type, Stant makes a thermostat/adapter package that will work correctly in the P18 housing. Hope this helps.
  15. My '37 Plymouth PT50 had the tire size and class stenciled on the bed side. It had been parked since 1952 in a building in Indiana. Photo is from around 1980.
  16. When I was doing frame straightening, we had a local shop that straightened bent wheels, both steel and alloy. It was surprising what he could save - as I remember the cost was $50.00 to $150.00. There is probably someone locally that could check your wheels and straighten them if necessary. With the tires off the wheels, you could mount them on a balancer or a front spindle and spin the wheel. You will see the wobble if it's much more the 1/16". On steel wheels, sometimes the outer edge of the lip where the tire mounts isn't truly concentric, but if you dial indicate the inner surface where the tire mounts, the run out isn't as bad. In the old days, we would spin the front wheels, look for wobble, and mark the extremes in run out, and then mount the camber/caster gauge between the extremes. We did this on every wheel as many steel wheels had some wobble. The wheels on my P18 weren't perfect, a couple maybe out 1/8", but the reproduction bias ply tires really weren't round and had wobble. You can rotate the tire on the wheel to find where it runs most true. The best thing to do next is have the tire trued on a tire lathe or shaver. This will make the tire truly round, produce the smoothest ride, and increase tire life. As a bonus, a trued tire will often require less weight to balance. I trued the tires on my wobbly wheels and just static balanced them. The car is smooth as silk at 60. Balancing will not correct an out of round tire.
  17. I have an NOS heater core that I bought I for a Model 65 heater years ago and never used. The same measurements as yours. Honestly though, it doesn't look any better than yours. $75.00 and shipping. PM if your interested and I will pressure test it.
  18. Back in January, I bought a large lot of '35 PJ parts from a hot rodded car. The owner had tried for months to sell the entire lot on CL with little interest and no takers. I advertised them here (some interest) as well as my local CL, but again, no sale. I finally posted everything to a Hemmings internet parts ad. They featured my ad one Saturday on their Hemmings Daily email and my parts sold that week. Don't overlook Hemmings - their on line ads not expensive. Parts lots can be hard to sell unless they are are really cheap (I love cheap parts lots). Do list them here on p15-d24 and see what happens. Are you willing to sell individual items? Yeah, it's a lot more work that way.
  19. I've done this on both thermostats used on a '41Mercury flathead, as well as the thermostat I just replaced in a Dodge 318. It makes filling block much quicker without having to burp the cooling system repeatedly. You will also see this hole on some thermostats like this Nissan I found in my junk stash. This one even has a little valve to block the hole when coolant is flowing. Some foreign engines ( Renault Alliance) were a real problem to get the the trapped air out of the system. I don't think bypassing this small amount of coolant hurts a thing, although I've never tried it on a MOPAR flathead.
  20. This may not qualify as a '48 to '53 option, but I found this little Job Rated accessory screw on clipboard about 15 years ago at a swap meet. I never screwed it to the dash, just used a magnet instead. When I sold the B4C in 2007, I kept the clipboard. I think the little paper pad is original.
  21. This is just a guess. but I think the pump should look something like this. Note the stud that screws into the base for the heat shield. The fuel pump on my P18 looked like this one, but with a metal cover on the bottom that did away with the sediment bowl. I think it was correct for the '49. I rebuilt this one because I like the visible bowl and screen arrangement that can be cleaned. I bought a Dodge engine years ago that had a combination fuel pump/vacuum pump. It also had the off-set stud and heat shield. I have a Carter fuel pump with the stud in the center, and there are a number of heat shield variations. The 2nd picture is a heat shield mounted to an earlier fuel pump. Someone here can tell you for sure.
  22. This is a 1954 D51 block with a 218 crank and no external rear main seal holes. You'll have to remove the pan, loosen the front three main caps, and remove the rear main cap. Pry up on the flywheel (1st picture) to take pressure off the upper half of the seal (it's captured between the crank and block) and give yourself some room to pry the seal half out (2nd picture). 3rd picture is the new two piece seal. Lubricate and slide the new half seal in around the crank journal (4th picture is new half installed). Install the other half in the main bearing cap and reassemble. Don't forget to check the crankshaft end play .003"-.007" (5th picture). If the end play is too great, this is the time to replace the bearing. This is a much better design than the bolt on seal. Unfortunately, you can't use this design in the earlier blocks.
  23. Here's a dis-assembled convertible vent window. Is the top serrated stop washer loose? I've had some pretty good success with a penetrant called Free All when used repeatedly over three or four days. Keep spraying and tapping with a brass hammer.
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