rekbender

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About rekbender

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milford OH
  • Interests
    Anything old and mechanical that can be taken apart.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth Coupe, 1949 Plymouth convertible, 1972 air cooled Beetle

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    45 year MOPAR fan
  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

260 profile views
  1. Made this to ship a P18 engine. The carb is level and you can run the engine on it. I can get measurements tomorrow if you're interested.
  2. Freeze or core plug extractor? Drill a hole in the plug, insert the split collet, expand the collet and slide hammer the plug out.
  3. These are 9 year old pictures of my 1936 P2 bellhousing. I didn't take measurements, but maybe the pics will help someone identify another like it in the future. Casting # 651252-5 Motor mounts are attached by brackets at the bottom
  4. I don't know if there is any real advantage in trying another set of caps, but I have a set from a 218 parts engine I'll be glad to send you for the postage. The center caps are stamped 2 and 3.
  5. Casting # 871357-6 Early 50's Plymouth? Rear horizontal mounts 4 1/8" ID Hole 7 3/4" Depth Casting # 864588-3 1948 Plymouth? Rear horizontal mounts 4 1/8" ID Hole 7 3/4" Depth Casting # 579298-6 1952 Truck? Side vertical mounts 4 3/4" ID Hole 7 1/4 Depth
  6. We did exactly the same thing in1966 with my buddy's mother's '65 Mustang 6 cylinder coupe before we'd cruise Frisch's drive in, only we used the twist in metal type. I found the rubber ones in the front springs of my P18 while replacing the coils this Wednesday. They may have led to the broken right side spring as they have to overload the adjacent coils. Eaton Spring shipped me new springs overnight.
  7. I was 18 and offered to work one Sunday at a gas station to fill in for a friend who was married and needed a day off sometimes. They had a dummy display battery - an empty battery case with a removable top. We had a none OSHA approved air gun with about a foot of steel brake line screwed into the nozzle. I show up early on Sunday morning, and there's a car in front of one of the bays with a "dead battery". They had drilled a hole in the dummy battery case, stuck the brake line from the air gun with the button taped down into in the hole in the battery, filled the case with water, put the top back on the battery, and set it in a car. The hood is up, one of the guys is leaning over the engine doing something, and he tells me to get the old IH service truck and bring it over for a jump. He then hooks the cables up to the truck and tells me to connect them to the dead battery. When I touch the jumper cable to the dummy battery, they connect the air hose to the shop air. It blew the top of the battery loose and soaked me with water. The "explosion" scared the piss out of me - I thought I was going to die! I never even noticed the air hose going under the car. Every new guy received this initiation so they told me.
  8. I just put new king pins (.795") and bushings in my P18 on Wednesday. I used an old Sears .797" king pin reamer that I bought on Ebay for $20.00' to ream the bushings. It worked perfectly for removing, installing, and sizing the bushings. The pin was a firm push fit in the bushings. My new king pins wouldn't quite start into the uprights either. The old pins measured .795" and had to be driven out with a drift. I didn't know what fit the pins are supposed to have in the uprights so I briefly ran a 1" ball hone through the upright just to clean things up, but it didn't help. After much consideration, I carefully started the reamer in the upright bore. It's slightly tapered so it starts easily. It barley met any resistance as it passed through the bore with no pressure, just turning gently back and forth. This leads me to believe the upright bore is also 797"or really close to that. I did feel it clean up the area around lock pin hole as it went by. I was then able to gently tap the pin through the bushings and upright with a little brass tack hammer. I'm putting new coil springs in today before I check the camber and toe. Can't wait to test drive it!
  9. Here's the phone number of the warehouse: 800 768 3646
  10. Rob the machinist just called and said one of the bearing suppliers came up with a 201 block bore of 2.407" but no plus or minus. Bearings are available in std, .010, .020, .030, .040, and .060.
  11. I checked with the machinist who did some work for me last winter. He found the rod bore to be 2.0420" to 2.0430", but only the 218 block bore. Hope this helps.
  12. The U-joint flange, not the seal, retains the bearing. Chrysler faced the same problem in 1936 when the Warner T86-1A overdrive transmission proved too long to mount a parking brake. They moved the parking brake to the rear backing plates. The 1936 rear end used with O.D. was hypoid so these might work on a '37. They're out there but hard to find - Desoto and Chrysler had them in '36.
  13. I just checked with Falcon Performance. The fellow said Sealed Power 37P60 is available as a single piston from JEGS for $33.99. You'd probably have to buy a full set of rings.
  14. If you get desperate, I have five used .060 over pistons from a 218 parts engine. They are old Conformatic pistons, total weight with rings, pin and circlips is 642 grams. They seem to be usable. I'll send you one if you think you could use it.
  15. Thin cut off wheel makes clean, square cut. Crimp or solder the lug and you're set.