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About rekbender

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milford OH
  • Interests
    Anything old and mechanical that can be taken apart.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth Coupe, 1949 Plymouth convertible, 1972 air cooled Beetle

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    45 year MOPAR fan
  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

113 profile views
  1. I am trying to figure out how to properly stow the jack, base, and tire wrench in the trunk of my recently purchased 1949 Plymouth convertible. The tire is bolted to the floor, and the jack clips into a couple of brackets on the right side of the trunk, in front of the top motor. Did Plymouth just leave the rest loose or under the tire? Any information would be great.
  2. Hi, I just tried the trunk lock on my '36 Plymouth coupe - it may be the same design internally as your Dodge. One full turn of the key clockwise locks the trunk (actually the handle rotates freely so the trunk can't be opened) and one full turn counter clockwise unlocks the trunk (now the handle is connected to the latch and the trunk may be opened). I removed the lock cylinder from a spare '36 Plymouth trunk handle to see whats in there. My lock cylinder looks similar to yours. The little tab on the bottom of the lock cylinder engages the disc with the u-shaped slot down in the handle and rotates it when the key is turned. As the disc turns it pushes a little pawl in and out of engagement and allows the handle to turn freely or not. It looks like everything is pressed together and then peened in place. I hope this is of some help.
  3. Here's my unrestored '36 P2. Original except for the '58 Dodge L230 engine.
  5. Hope your leak is fixed. I attempted to use Dorman steel concave plug #550-023 this winter on a '50 Dodge engine this winter. Some were .015" oversize (1.6240") and almost impossible to start. Pressure testing the long block at with air and soap suds at 20 psi showed tiny leaks around 3 plugs and I could not get them to seal. The block had been professionally cleaned but some of the cavities weren't perfectly smooth any longer. I removed the steel plugs and ordered Dorman brass concave plug #560-023. They consistently measured 1.632" to 1.635" went in with snugly with no problems. I will not use steel plugs again. The brass plugs are nice and thick, and deform more easily. Just my 2¢.
  6. Is your problem solved? I had a sediment bowl filter on my '53 B4C a while back and never had a problem. Do you have the heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the pump? I also made an additional shield to help keep the metal line to the carb cooler. My problem was vapor lock. Hope this helps.
  7. Hi Neil, I had two engines apart tis winter. Both had factory brass freeze (core) plugs on each end of the block as well as the five plugs on the side. The brass plugs appeared to be original and were still in excellent shape. The steel plugs were rusty and seeping. I removed them anyway to clean the water jackets more thoroughly which were full of sediment. The bright steel cupped plug partially visible in the one picture provides access to the road draft tube chamber - also full of sludge. There is also one threaded plug with a hex socket on each end of the block for the main oil gallery.
  8. I went the other way - front sump to rear. As I remember, the cross over tubes were the same, but I still have the front sump tube. Good luck.
  9. If you need a front sump pick up tube and float, I have one. $30.00 + shipping.
  10. I think the T86-1A was the overdrive transmission used in 1936. It was a centrifugally actuated overdrive. This one came from a 1936 Desoto S1. I've seen it in Dodge, Desoto, and Chrysler for '36, and in ann ad for an export '36 Plymouth. It required a cable operated rear wheel parking brake set up to fit in the '36 frame. I think the T86-1P is a '37.