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rekbender last won the day on January 21

rekbender had the most liked content!

About rekbender

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milford OH
  • Interests
    Anything old and mechanical that can be taken apart.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth Coupe, 1949 Plymouth convertible, 1970 Dodge A108 Sportsman van

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    45 year MOPAR fan
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    Antique cars, anything mechanical, dogs

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  1. rekbender

    1939 Plymouth Coupe

    My lever was straight back and forth - back against the seat was direct, forward was overdrive. The linkage was uncomplicated and could be easily fabricated if you wanted to save some money. Since mine was in a stock '32 Ford chassis, the OD unit was incorporated in the torque tube - no external brackets. I bought the car as an unfinished project and the OD was already installed in the tube. It was beautifully done, probably by Mitchell
  2. rekbender

    1939 Plymouth Coupe

    I had a Mitchell OD (26% overdrive) in a Ford flathead powered roadster a while back.It did require a second lever to engage, kind of cool in hot rod. It got lots of questions. It was synchronized and work perfectly, and had a speedo drive on the output shaft. I always used the clutch to go in and out. Not as slick as an R10, but you could split shift - I didn't. The Mitchell product seemed to be extremely well designed and built, but expensive. I don't know if parts are still available.
  3. rekbender

    Show your tools.

    I found these a few years ago in a closed tire shop. Dynatrue tire truer and Atlas "Tune In" on car balancer. They were going to be sold for scrap. Of course I had to save them.
  4. rekbender

    Who Is Actually Driving Their Vintage Mopars?

    I'm a fair weather driver. The '36 was stored inside an old garage from 1957 thru 2005, and hasn't been wet in 60 years. The '49 is a 40 year old restoration and leaks in lots of annoying little places in the rain. I just drove it today, and now it's in for an oil change.
  5. rekbender

    Engine swapping

    I had the same experience with my '36 Plymouth. '58 Dodge 230 with a '48 Plymouth 4bolt flywheel, '36 bell housing, '36 starter. It has worked fine for 9 years. At the time, I was unaware of the 230 crank flange difference, so I just blindly bolted everything together. Patmac, post some pictures of how everything fits. My '36 bell housing looks just like bones44's.
  6. rekbender

    Transmission Identification

    The transmission may have a number stamped at the top rear of the case. Pictures are of '35, '36 and '37 Plymouth transmissions. The last two digits of number on the left side appears to indicate the year the transmission was assembled. The model designation is stamped on the right side. PJ for 1935, P1 for 1936. I've seen build dates stamped on the front case edges of later 3 speeds. Could you post pictures?
  7. rekbender

    Topping up gearbox oil

    Thanks for the info. The oil I used after replacing the bronze stop rings is rated GL5, although the label on the back says it's a suitable replacement for GL2/3/4. I purchased GL1 at Tractor Supply ($17.99 for 2 gallons) this afternoon, and since the car the car is on the rack now for it's pre-season servicing, I will drain the transmission and fill it with GL1 tomorrow. These were my last two NOS stop rings so I hope to make them last.
  8. rekbender

    Topping up gearbox oil

    Is it the white metal synchronizer stop rings that are affected? How about the brass stop rings in the earlier transmissions? Any other information GL! versus GL4/5 would be helpful. I had a brass second gear stop ring fail suddenly and completely in my '49 transmission last summer - is this the result of the wrong oil? I replaced the stop rings and it shifts great, but I'm afraid of what's in the transmission now.
  9. rekbender

    Door latch and striker for 52 plymouth

    Just a guess, but I think the latch (lock) was painted. Yesterday I removed the latch from a 1951 or 1952 Plymouth convertible door. The inner door frame still has it's original mint green or Nile green paint. It appears that they assembled as much of the door as they could before painting, The latch goes in first, then the rear glass channel. The latch remote control rod was assembled to the door shell as well as the window regulator regulator, the door hinges were attached to the shell, and the door was painted. These components all were painted on this door. Then door glass, stops, vent window, handle, lock, even the little wedge on the door jamb were attached to the painted door. If the door and striker were adjusted prior to painting, I'd guess the striker was painted as well, but maybe not if final door adjustments had to be made later. There are traces of green paint on the latch rotor, but only on one tooth which makes sense as only it was exposed. If this door was a later replacement, who knows. There has to be someone here with an original paint car who can shed more light on this.
  10. rekbender

    Driver side door lock assy.

    I forgot this picture - a tiny set screw and jam nut holds the cover. With my old, stiff fingers, I dropped the screw twice and almost lost it.
  11. rekbender

    Driver side door lock assy.

    I replaced my driver's door latch rotor yesterday with the parts from an ebay Roto-Lokit kit yesterday - what an improvement! I went a little further and removed the latch so I could repair the protruding bar that slides over the striker and supports the door when closed. Both the bar and striker were pretty badly worn and the door didn't close or open smoothly. I welded up the worn area, and ground and filed it smooth again. The last step was installing a new striker. The door opens and latches like new. You might want to remove the latch and check for broken springs on the pawl that locks the rotor. I noticed the broken spring on a spare latch I'd planned to use. Luckily, the latch from the door was fine. Well worth the effort, just follow the directions - I used a cutoff wheel to remove the cap and rotor.
  12. rekbender

    Vacuum Advance part number? 1948 Dodge coupe

    Point well taken. I've probably been lucky, but the NOS vacuum chamber on my '36 Plymouth has been functioning since spring of 2009. I put another NOS chamber on the IAT distributor ('51 engine) in my '49 last spring - so far so good. I would NOT rely on an NOS or NORS fuel pump today. Both of my fuel pumps have modern, alcohol resistant diaphragms installed. The raised loop in the steel vacuum line from the carburetor is supposed to help keep liquid fuel from collecting in the line, and the line is evacuated each time the engine is started, so maybe this has helped. I just bought spare IAT-2023RG NOS chamber on ebay last week - it was too cheap to pass up - which I plan to carry in the '49.
  13. rekbender

    Vacuum Advance part number? 1948 Dodge coupe

    My Auto-lite book shows their part number as VC-2082R. There are two of these NOS on ebay right now. Bernbaum lists them as well. I've had great results with NOS Auto-lite.
  14. rekbender

    Replacement Radiator Cap Source

    This old Stant Everseal box shows an R-1 radiator cap as correct for a 1938 Chrysler. Unfortunately, it's full of R-2's.
  15. Thanks for the download - excellent information.

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