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desoto1939

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desoto1939 last won the day on March 25

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About desoto1939

  • Birthday 05/25/1951

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  • AIM
    desoto1939@aol.com
  • Biography
    Have bicycled across the USA in 1976 from Williamaburg Vir to San Fransico Ca
  • Occupation
    retired software Quality Assurance analyst

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valley Forge, PA
  • Interests
    Colleting old Cross reference catalogs to support the antique Moapr cars and Trucks Have scanned these an put on Compact disks. Bicycle collecting and Bicycle touring
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Desoto 4 Door Sedan that has been judged as HPOF with the AACA.

Converted

  • Location
    Valley Forge PA
  • Interests
    own a 1939 Desoto 4 dr sedan

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  1. Dan: the newer replacement 6v 6006 bulbs will fit just fine. But what I was referring to is if someone was trying to to a retrofit with an aftermarket conversion kit that was sold for cars that were produced prior to 1939 they would have to make modification to the mounting ring that holds the sealed beam inplace. The mounting rings were not designed to get past the modern aiming tips. On my unit I had to use a small round file to cut into the area were each tip on the lens would be located on the mounting rim so that i could get the lens to fit perfectly in the mounting rim. Hope this clears up the information. So this is why the 4030 bulbs should be used and not the 6006 bulbs that are now available at stores like Tractor supply. Its all about how finite you want to be for a driver car. Most people do not know this detail of information but if you are having a car judged then it is a major factor and or points deduction. At last years AACA Hershey they had a 1950 Chrysler Windsor 6 cylinder GRAND NATIONAL Winner on the field and it had the 6006 sealed beams. As we all know these were not produced until around 1955-56. Also the correct bulb would have been the Autolite Bullseye bulb. The car parked next to this car was a 1950 DeSoto that had the correct bulbs and was being judged for the first time in an AACA event. So what I am saying is that even if an AACA event things get past the judges. But for being a Grand National badged car i would be expecting it to have all of the correct items installed. I have found out that since no one is producing the Tar top batteries for our older cars they are now permitting the use of modern 6volt batteries. Yes things are changing because of the lack of products. So I am ok with this official change, it is minor when presenting the car for judging. Rich Hartung
  2. Yes the 4030 headlight was used from 1940-1948 as a standard 6 v sealed beam light. Also when you look at one on these light bulbs you will notice that there are no aiming tips and then in 1949-55 Mopar used the Autolite Bullseye bulb and these still did not have any aiming tips. Then around 56 MoPar used either GE or Tungsten headlights So if you try to use a conversion kit to go to sealed beams on a pre 1940 car the sealed beam 6006 6v bulb will not fit properly in the housing because these new 6006 bulbs come with the aiming tips and the original conversion kits were not manufactured to get past the tips. I know this because i have several kits and the round mounting trim ring can not get past the tips. I tried a 4030 bulb and the trim mounting ring goes right over the bulb. Rich Hartung
  3. Doug: Well I guess you need to attend the Hershey swap meet with me for a couple of days. Always looking in the odd lots of parts and you never know what opportunity might come your direction. Yes the Trippe lights were a great find and also the 6 Autolite Bullseye headlights. I worked on two of them today and was sanding the rust spots on the back of the lights and sprayed them gray. Then took some glass paste and cleaned up the front lens on two of them. They are now ready and backed in bubble wrap. These Autoite bulbs will be going to Hershey for resale unless some one needs them sooner. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  4. The trippe Lights were made inthe Senior and also Junior product lines. The Senior Lights were used on the bigger cars of the 1920's thru 1930's. These were the cream of the driving lights. When also going to a quality car show look at the big cars such as the Packard's, Lincolns and every notice that they have a large driving light right in the middle of the front bumper and that there isa rod that is connected to the light. These are called Pilot Ray lights. These light will pivot as you make a turn into a corner or a side street so that you have light to see wre your are turning. There was a rod that connected to the drag link and when turning the steering wheel right or left the Pilot Ray light would move in that direction. This was the precursor to the idea that Tucker had for his third headlight in the grill, it was designed to move in the direction of the steering when turned. My Senior light are stationary lights just like fog lights but these are 8 inch lens and spread a beam to light up the roadway at night. These lights if you look an Ebay are not cheap they range in price from $1500 to $2500 for a quality set that is ready to put on your car. If you ever go to Hershey in the Fall for the AACA swap meet and car show you will see these lights on cars. The parts for these are expensive. They even had a special wrench that had knurls or groves to tighten the mounting bolt that hlds the light onto the upright bracket. This little tool is not cheap it sells for around $125-150. And to answer someone else question this is not a joke and also not a scam. I only post information that is correct and just thought other cars owners might be interested and to let everyone know that there are still good buy's to be found, just have to be at the venders site early so as the saying goes the Early Bird gets the worm. For MoPar car owners the correct headlight bulbs, seal beams, from 1949-1956, stil using 6 volt systems, the correctbuld that was used is the Autolite Bullseye beam bulb and not the standard 6v 6006 replacement bulb. During the 1940 -56 every headlight was still manually aimers against a white wall and the car was positioned 25 feet from the wall. In 1956 approx they came out with the BEAR headlight aiming machne and the headlight bulbs then had the three tits or gismos to aim the lights. I did a presentation at the National Desoto club several years ago with all of this information and most of the members did not even know what headlight were to be installed on their cars. I have even found that the AACA judges and there judging manual does not even have this information and I have sent them this information but they have not changed their judging criteria. Car from the 1940-1948, Mopar and also others would have used a headlight number 4030 and also would not have the aiming tits. The first picture is the Autolite Bullseys sealed beam. The 2nd and 3rd picture is the 4030 bulbs and note no aiming tits these bulbs were used from 1940-48 on the MoPar cars and Trucks Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  5. I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning. At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights. I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs. Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens. As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition. OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount. I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+. He came back with a price of yes $100. You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller. I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes. Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent. Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color. As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each. So not a bad day of looking for parts. I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  6. Here is some information frm my36-42 dodge master parts book on the trunk prop. Also look at the note section. See that note on D8 it also might use the same support. I have the complete 36-42 Dodge master parts book. Do you want to purchase a copy to have for your computer. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  7. Bob: according to my 1936-42 Dodge Master parts book there already is a brake pedal return spring. Below is the page from the catalog showing the part and part Number. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  8. I have the same master cylinder in your car as in my 39 Desoto. Had a very similar issue. One day the brakes would work then the next day not and then could pump up the brake. then went to the floor. Decided to remove the floor pans, pulled the MC. Already had a spare rebuild kit and rebuilt the entire MC. Cleaned the two holes inthe resevoir. Bleed the MC on my bench and installed the MC back in the car and had good brakes. Next day working at my bench I looed at the pressure release valve that sits at the very front on the MC and then noticed a vey small slit in the rubber part of the valve. Also do not play with the piston push rod or turning it in or out. So this value permits the fluid to move out of the MC and also return but when there is a slit inthe rubber you get a very low pedal. Suggest that you rebuild the MC. i know it is a pain to get it out of the car but if all else fails then this is your only option. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  9. I had taken the tires and rims off my 39 Desoto to do some checking under the car. I also have the lug bolts and are all right hand treaded. Did my checkout put the rims and tires back on the car used the t-wrench to tighten the bolts and both rear wheels. Thought they were on tight enough took the car for a ride around the block and then heard the wheel noise. stop the car in my neighborhood saw the bolts were loose. walked home got my t-wrench and tighten them up. So we all have had some issues with not tightening the lug bolts. So now when I put the car back on the ground I retighten all the bolts for all the wheels that had been removed. Lesson learned once but never twice for this issue again. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  10. Another quick option is to purchase a NOS breaker Plate assembly for your IAT dizzy. This then come complete with the wires, condenser, and points already assembled. Then all you have to do is install the new breaker plate and then rebuild the old plate with parts and then you have a spare in case something happens. I always look for BP when at swap meets, just good insurance to have spare parts for your car especially if you have switched out the original pars such as the dizzy and carbs, etc. You can not just walk into any auto store and expect to get the part off the self, might even have to wait a few days or more. Be prepared for future tune-ups and repairs. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  11. Below is some info on the distributor lead wires and sizes this was taken from my Echlin catalog. It tells the lead wire number and the then the picture of each wire and length. The part number in ( ) is the autolite part number on the wire picture. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  12. Ivan: I purchase a tool and there is a posting about it in the Show your tools posting. It cost me several dollars but it tests the brake fluid for moisture. Even a bottle on DOT3,4,5 that has been opened and the lid put back on tightly will still get moisture back into the bottles. I tested some DOT3 that has been on my self and had been opened and i tested it and there was moisture to the point that i decided to get a brand new bottle. I then tested on my DOT5 bottle that also had been opened and resealed and this did not have any moisture according to the pen and that bottle had been opened well over a year ago. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  13. The other day I was not able to get the idle and rpm for my 39 Desoto to a point that was maing the engine run at the proper rpm on the Carter Ball and Ball Carbs. I took the side panel off the car on the passenger side I moved the idle adjustment arm and saw that on the Throttle Shaft Dog that also control the fast idle and also works with the sisson choke has a flat spot and also had a groove inthe dog. This piece should not have any grooves It should be perecftly smooth so that as the sisson choke is getting released the idle then settles down. The dog in the pictures is the small metal band that is on the left post and rotates back as the fast idle from the choke is released. These dogs get the groove because the idle set screw rides against the dog and as the idle come down the point of the screw wares a groove in the dog. I am looking to see if anyone might have one of these in their parts bin. Will pay for the item plus shipping. So if you always getting a fast idle check this on your carb. If anyone has questions please feel free to contact me Refer to the attached picture of the Throttle shaft Dog Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com l
  14. on my original 39 desoto I only have the plug that is shown in the first picture. I will have to also investigate to see if there is a small drain plug on the bottom of my 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  15. An if you look an ebay you can get a dwell meter and tach meter to adjust your engine from approx $15 and up to $100. But for most of our cars the cheaper meters are just fine. Rich hartung
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