Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Thomba48

  1. thank you. I shall check this and proceed as your have indicated if necessary. More thank kindest regards. Thom
  2. Thank your for having responded. The tank is currently reosonably full. Which it it isn't always obviously. But with no impact on the fuel gauge level indication. The resistance I have checked and it looks Ok to me. Tank providing ground? How could I tell this? Fact is, the tank is new. It is properly attached to the car with the relevant straps. It is well connected to the frame, the body parts etc. So in a way, should that not suffice to provide proper ground? Or in other words, how could I improve on that front? thanks/ thom
  3. I have this obviously not unusual fuel gauge issue: Depending on how I turn the fuel sender around the gauge either shows empty or full. But nothing in between. The background: I am referring to my 1949 P18 Plymouth. In contrast to the P15 model my system only works with one electric cable. The tank was exchanged with a new one. The sender I have exchanged, also that would not have been necessary as I see now Ground have checked The cable between the gauge and the sender is obviously intact But still - either empty (when I turn the sender into a certain position) or full, if I turn it into another position. Any clever ideas? Should I go for a new gauge. Not difficult to find, but a very unpleasant exchange task after all. I mean getting underneath the dashboard, somehow trying to untangle the wiring, unscrewing the gauge etc. etc. etc. thanks for your advice :-)
  4. Hi. I am all set. Well almost. The intake I have, two carter b&b carbs, filters and linkage. Plus gaskets etc. I am now just missing the fuel line, all connectors and three way link. Here comes my question: What exactly will I need? The thing, I need to get it all from the US. And what I do not have, I don't have when I get started 🙂 Steel brake lines I was being told - what width? How many connectors? What type? I believe on three way link? Anything else? thanks for your update.
  5. What is the status? The wiper motor was cleaned and oiled. Withouth the wiper arms attached the system works finde and reasonably fast. The vaccuum was checked. The wiper arms and connections I have checked. Manually they can be moved. The issue: The moment I attached the arms to the motor nothing happens. It feels like the motor is not strong enough the wiper itself. Is there anything else I can check? thanks/ thom
  6. I actually went ahead with the purchase. Should you be interested I am more than happy to update you on my final review in regard to fit and quality. Obviously, this is only interesting to those owning 1949 to 1952 Plymouth 2 door cars. Thom
  7. shame for him not being around anymore 😞
  8. He certainly has a good track record
  9. Sorry wrong entry
  10. Hi, came across this offering on ebay https://www.ebay.de/itm/1949-1950-1951-1952-Plymouth-DOOR-SILL-MAT-Pair-NEW-2-Door-Deluxe-Special-Deluxe/143100679151?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 What strikes me here? Well, almost affordable in comparison to other offers. Has anybody come across them already? Just interested in how well they are performing in the real world 🙂
  11. Just in case this is still being read. Is a grommet enough? Or do I need anything else around the wiper pivot? Where can I find a grommet that has the exact inside opening to be fitting around the motor pivot? thanks
  12. Thank you very much. That is rather helpful indeed. Thom
  13. Hi, I did poste this question already in another thread that I have highjacked. Sorry for that. "Just wondering, does anybody know what the original colour definition was for the convertible top frame itself for a 1949 Plymouth?". My manual does not give me any hints regarding this subject matter. thanks/ Thom
  14. By the way. Does anyone know what the original colour was for the frame? I am currently getting a new top installed and the frame does not look too good. And also where might I get the gasket strip towards the front. It is a 1949 Plymouth by the way. If that was to matter at all. Thanks
  15. Thanks to Robin (UK) I just came across an interesting, practical and very reasonable priced bluetooth set-up. https://www.hotrodradios.co.uk/hrrb1 Just thought I should share that. Thom
  16. Hi. Would be more than happy to get into the loop 🙂
  17. Thank you very much. It sounds like something that I should be able to manage. Again more than kindest regards. Thom
  18. Hi, Thanks for coming back to me. Any chance that you could show me how you managed to achieve this. I do not mean the location matter, but the shaft modification. Thanks Thom
  19. A question from a friend of mine: He is interested in the Newport wiper engine offering , but does not like the look of the switch. Wich I clearly understand 🙂 So, has anyone ever tried to use the original switch instead. He is interested in any advice. thanks/ thom
  20. Hi. Thanks. The clips I have found in my possession already. What I am, however, still missing is ... Christ, sometimes finding the right words in English is sooo difficult 🙂 😞 So what I believe that I am still missing is the "hex socket/ longish nut without a thread" that runs through the grommet and around the linkage on the actual wiper motor. What is this hex socket called? thanks
  21. Hi. Many weeks later I still have one question. What is the part called that - I would describe it as a nut without a thread - that connects the wiper linkage arm on the wiper itself with the actual linkage. Really pardon my englisch, but then I would not know if I could describe it any better in German either 🙂 thanks
  22. Thanks to all. For the final round 🙂 - as everything there is I have understood - let us be purely practical. The only question remaining for me is the position of the toggle switch. And its three positions. Left - middle - right. For this final round let us assume that a) I am stupid - not totally true but not completely false either especially when it comes to electrical settings b) the kick down switch will not be installed and obviously c) the OD cable is properly pulled in. So what position should the toggle switch be when I get started under normal circumstances? Left - middle - right? When I momentarily want to get out of the OD - bearing in mind there is no kick down switch - what would then be the right position of the toggle switch? Left - middle - right? And where would the toggle switch be moved to if I wanted to get back into OD again after that - this would obviously than be the normal dirving setting. thanks for additional insights. Might sound easy and strange to you, but I can't seem to be able to be getting my head around it. thom
  23. I will not be able to really respond to your wonderful notes in full depth. But later. What , however, have to make clear immediately: The harness from George did not come with the kick down switch. So if it really is damaged - as I believe it is, but I shall check - he is under no circumstances to be blamed. An important note regarding the reputation of a great man.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use