Thomba48

A gauge is on the way, so the testing can begin this week ?

Thanks. I honestly have to admit that I have never - even in its German translation - have ever heard of the existance of an neatsfoot oil. I am now certainly wiser than before ?

thanks

I learned a lot - again. ? OK - On the plug approach shall I plug the carb linkage to the advance? When unplugged than I obviously unplug it from the advance? The latter option I have obviously done, as I unfortunately left the wiper feed open ? with exactly the result you indicated. As the timing was set with the advanced unplugged do I have to work on the timing again? I have also ordered a gauge to check the wiper feed vacuum pressure as the wiper motor isn't working at the moment. Which obviously could be caused by the inside being dry. I shall check that out later this week. thom

Mark - always great what you do with your cars and great to know you as a person ?

Ok

1949 are not using a vacuum motor to operating the top. So there is one line out of the carb and one linkage out of the intake to the wiper. So I believe ?

Sorry - my mistake. Yes. You are right. Vacuum line from the bottom of the carb to the vacuum advance on the distributor was not connected. Everything was fine. What is this link actually for. After all not being connected it worked fine. Now, I have reconnected the line. And the apparent issue occured. So do I need that connection at all. I do ,however, also remember now that the vacuum line from the intake I have not sealed off, it is simply open as I have taken the wiper motor out. Could that be part of the problem?

I have issued this question already in a wiper motor issue post. Where it actually didn't make a lot of sense. There is obviously a linkage from the vacuum advance to the vacuum line coming out from the carb. The connection was disconnected. As a matter of fact, the vacuum line from the carb was sealed. The car was running beautifully without any issues. I stupidly connected that line, took away the seal and connected the metal line from the vacuum booster wit the tube going into the carb. The result, the car is now running really bad, acceleration was an issue. It felt like he wasn't getting any fuel or not enough fuel at some stages, there was total stuttering taking place etc. Questions: What is the vacuum booster actually doing? In theory of course I know that. But how can it be that a disconnected link worked out better than when the vacuum booster was actually linked to the vacuum line? So, could you just drive always without the vacuum booster being connected? Is the issue that I experienced - so vacuum booster connected, acceleration a real problem - maybe an indication that I have a problem with my cars vacuum performance? thanks

Thanks for many reasons. First of all for reminding me towards to task at hand. Which I do not dare even thinking about for the time being. And secondly assuming that I have any form of tenacity ? I am not sure about that. What I am sure is that I am desperate and have reached a point of no return. Saying, the car I purchased turned out to be - well a bloody mess. I could either leave it in the state at hand and never enjoy or move on and never look back - costwise. Bugger

The vaccum connection between the carb and the vaccum booster was disconnected. Still the car worked fine. So what is this connection for. The moment I reconnected the links I started to have massive acceleration problems. So I must reverse the procedure again. Two questions derive from that: Is it bad to drive along without the vaccum booster receiving vaccum power? Could this be another indication besides the wiper matter that I happen to have a vaccum problem? Thanks Thom

Thanks. Does sound like the choice is clear. Thanks

Thanks. Sorry to be hearing about the ebbing reality. Thom

Thanks. The gauge I do not have. But it might be worth testing. The oil issue would certainly be a good starting point. I shall be doing that first, check the result by connecting a vacuum line and go from there. Better than taking it apart ?

By the way - the part number is SSM 120

I have now taken the entire windscreen wiper set-up of my P18 convertible top apart. The situation: The windscreen wipers do not function. What have I found out sofar: The vacuum comes straight from a line out of the actual intake When the engine is running and I am putting my finger on top of the intake vaccum connection I do feel some suction. It is not massive - would not compare it to the suction of a hoover - but again, suction I do notice. Should there be more suction? Then I have taken the radio out to see the actual wiper motor set-up When using the knob - which is connected with a line to the actual motor - I do see things moving. So the knob does not seem to be the issue. The linkage is moving - I can move it by hand The motor itself - it is now in my hand - looks very clean. I have not taken it apart, but from the outside the "paper? seal looks actually quite good. The linkage handle on top of the wiper motor can be moved. When moving I do hear something happening within the motor itself. I can actually also hear something like the wiper "was breathing". The moment I put a finger on top of the vaccum inline that "breathing" sound disappears. Is that right? How do I know if the wiper motor is working or not? Help - thanks.

Not an issue of urgency, but my convertible top for my P18 Plymouth will need replacement rather soon than later. Any recommendations towards a good prefab top manufacturer. I have spoken to one very nice forum member who had big issues with EZ On company. So they might not be on my list anymore. ? thanks

Hi. I know totally useless. Still I would love to know where I could find a top boot for my 1949 Plymouth convertible. My online search has not provided any success so far thanks

Thanks. I have contacted Whitepost. I shall see what they have to say ? On the Bernbaum front I have a tiny little question. He is offering one type of master cylinder for all Plymouth cars ranging from 42 to 54. Not that I shall go for that but on ebay and amazon it looks like the P15 master cylinders are being perceived to be not compatible with the P18 modell. So is the latter wrong and/or the Bernbaum offering realistic? thanks

On ebay or Amazon master brake cylinder prices range from 80$ to 200$. Does this also matter the former one is not as good? Braking is a rather essential task after all, so I better should be safe ?

True - thanks for updating that information for me ?

One wire system. New sender from ebay. Not a good description I know.

Thanks ?

Hi ? With the old fuel sender the gauge went balistic at all times. From zero to full depending on the "position of the car" and back and foreword again. I have now installed a new sender. With the result that the movement is gone ? but the gauge only displays the state of full ? ? (would be great with local fuel prices, but certainly not realistic). The car is still 6Volt positive ground. As this is certainly not anything out of the ordinary - would love to receive your advice. thanks

Hi. I would like to cordially point out. Obligation is a rather harsh word. But kindness is a perfect description of your efforts. Thanks :-)))