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About Thomba48

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 10/18/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Sucker of the 1940s period
  • My Project Cars
    Used to have a P15 Business Coupe and now own a 1949 convertible


  • Location
    Germany, Munich
  • Interests
    Learning on how to use both my left :-) hands

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Business Consultant
  1. I went through the same process thanks to some good advice from somebody from here: As indicated above you do need for the second gear set-up the following: 2nd gear part number 692287, important you need to check that it is really the 23 teeth set up And the gear cluster, part number 853885 with 14-19-23-32 teeth This seller actually has a 1st gear, reverse gear etc. on offer I am not sure if is on ebay already but it was offered to me. Just ask.
  2. Thanks - just noticed myself having checked the design on various images. As usual. Kindest regards.
  3. Hi - just checking - using the Cherokee rear end would require a complete axle change or can I just change the rear pumpkin incl. the rear end 3rd member with gears? thanks
  4. Thanks - the matter is closed (I still have found no way to delete posts that I once initiated in the end). I have been talking to many local guys and my thoughts (that I not even put into the right words) need to go back into the drawing board for further clarifications. thanks again
  5. Just an interesting question to the electric minded guys in the forum: Would it be possible to connect a 12 Volt carb (the choke of course) to an original 6 Volt positive ground set-up, e.g. by using a voltage converter? thanks
  6. Totally "bolt in" as long a you have a bracket and the correct pulley width
  7. Thank you very much. That was a big help. Thom
  8. Hi - just checking. Does this wiring approach completely leave out the kick-down "connection"? What is the benefit? How does this than work in a daily situation - by flicking the toggle the OD is being activated (this would probably be the normal setting anyway. Than maybe whilst driving along one wants to deactivate the OD - for whatever reason, that could be in order to overtake an "even" slower car in front of you. In this case you flick the toggle again, the OD is being deactivated and when you want to go back into OD one has to flick the toggle again? The factory setting requires in that situation to mash the pedal to the floor in order to shift back into direct drive. And in order to moving back into overdrive one has to let off the gas completely.
  9. Hi - any idea if that is also true for the 1949 model?
  10. Great - I'll take it :-))))) Just joking obviously. Great car also - and yes this bracket certainly makes sense. I have approached a few junkyards. Maybe they can help :-)
  11. Yes - when it comes to the rear plate than they go to the trunk lid - but even here a bracket might be needed. Only the front plate goes towards the bumper
  12. Hi. Thank you very much for your thoughts. The above bracket actually would work - after all the license plate only needs to be fixed with two nuts. There is no law indicating if those fixing points are entirely positioned towards the end of the plate or towards middle. So that should actually work. Why I do not think the above is really working for me is that I do have those ripped bumpers. So probably also the bracket might need to replicate those curves. So I believe. But than it probably would work - the more I think about it :-) Below have a look at the ripped bumber. What easy option there might be is the following set-up:
  13. Late - a P18.
  14. What about the rear license bracket for a 1949? How does it look like?
  15. Has anyone got a spare one he wants to sell :-) thanks