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48ply1stcar last won the day on December 4 2013

48ply1stcar had the most liked content!

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About 48ply1stcar

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 10/09/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Blaine, MN
  • My Project Cars
    I've only had one project car since 1968.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I bought purchased this car for $75. Joined the Army in 1970 forgot to get out.
  • Occupation
    Retired Army and retired govt employee.


  • Location
    Blaine, MN (North of MPLS)
  • Interests
    bowling and visiting Army buddies.

Recent Profile Visitors

865 profile views
  1. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    Sorry I forgot to mention that he used a Dakota pick-up. One frame just over-lapped the other, but I don't remember which way. So he had power steering, front disc brakes, and AC.
  2. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    3 or 4 years ago I went to a car show where the owner had used the front dakota frame with motor, cut the P15 frame overlapped them and welded them together. Kept the look stock, used the column shift to shift the automatic.

    The interior is in vinyl more info at and WLS headliner thread.
  4. The tools arrive yesterday. I examined the tools and I have an issue with the flat bar tool. I removed the nuts that hold the control arm onto the bar and I noticed that the one nut use screwed down to hide an issue. and the nut was also tilted. Upon removing the nit i noticed that the threaded part of the screw was cracked and to the point that the treaded portion is about to break completely  in half.  since the tool was not originally sent to you and this condition i just wanted to let you know this information.  The threaded botl in pressed fitted into the bar upon my examination of the tool.  I am going to have to fine a bolt with the same dementions and length bolt. it will also have to be pressed out and the new bolt pessed intot he opening.  I am not sure if there isa replacement bolt that will work but I am keeping my fingers crossed.

    I am angry that this bolt was broken and this indicates that the nut had to be removed when you took the arm out off the bar and then the nut was threaded back on to cover the damage.  I wish that you had at least contacted me regarding the issue.  Since the tool was set to you with out this damage it should have been your responsibilty to contact me and then have gotten the tool repaired.  I would have understood the situation but now i feel that the tool might have been mistreated.


    So mu initial reaction is to reconsider the loaning out of my tools because of this issue. Of the several years that I have been loaning this hard to find original tools i have never had a tool returned to me broken.  So i Will be with holding an additional $25 plus the $25 loaner fee to try to get the tool fixed.

    Rich Hartung


    cell 484-431-8157

    Home 610-630-9188

    1. 48ply1stcar


      I am truly sorry, I had a difficult time installing the tools and I had no idea that I had broke any part.  Please have the tool repair and deduct the cost the the repairs from the deposit.  Additionally maybe it was the AB parts that were my issue.  Again please ensure the tool is repaired to your satisfaction before you return any of my deposit.


  5. Starting the dive into the deep water, front suspension.

    Should be a little higher in the rear also. Considering the rear springs were bent the wrong way. Actually, the rear springs were handle-bar mustache shape.
  6. Starting the dive into the deep water, front suspension.

    Done with passenger side. Just few things, bleeding brakes, two tie-rod ends, and reinstall sway bar. Hopefully driving the church Sunday.
  7. My 1st build, 50 Coronet

    I see your not going to need those springs for a couple of days.
  8. USING MILLER TOOLS C-608 and C-594

    Springs. As long as your there Moog 850 from Rockauto 42.79 and rubber from Roberts less than $20. Disc next year.
  9. USING MILLER TOOLS C-608 and C-594

    Still working on my suspension I hope to finish today. I have been documenting my progress on another thread. I never done this before so I was satisfied the product. I did buy a set of seals from Roberts not knowing that there would be a full set of seals with the Bernbaum product. I mostly used the Roberts seals because I really liked them especially the seals for the outer bushings. If you don't need to buy everything you can buy the inner, outer, upper & outer separately from Roberts. I bought everything from Berbaum and when I got to the passenger side I really only needed the lower inner bushings. But I did replace it all except the lower outer. I cross-thread the bushing so I'm just putting the old one back in.

    I think this is what your looking for.
  11. USING MILLER TOOLS C-608 and C-594

    I had to Google IMO (In My Opinion)
  12. USING MILLER TOOLS C-608 and C-594

    Using C-608 is a little more complicated. After placing the pivot bar in place secure the tool to the pivot bar. When the tool was in place it was already spread to the max. So after talking to Rich I decided to spread the ends the 1/16th of a inch in accordance with the manual. To accomplish that I added two large washers. There are index marks on the tool so before applying pressure I measured 3 inches between the marks. Then I turned the nut on the tool until there was 3 1/16 inches between the marks. Install busing and torque to 120 lbs to 140 lbs. Although, this can be done without the tools and you maybe able to center the pivot bars without these tools I just felt better using them for my first attempt at this project. I you have read my other threads you are aware that given the opportunity I can screw things up.
  13. USING MILLER TOOLS C-608 and C-594

    As long as I was going to rebuild the front suspension, and that I had never gotten this deep into suspension repair before I thought I would take the opportunity to borrow Desoto1939's Miller tools. So where to start. Not only did I have the rubber seals from that came with parts from Bernbaum, I bought seals from Roberts. I spent too much money but it was nice to choose. None of the seals were marked and the two seals on the left were seals for the lower inner, the larger one from Roberts. I used the larger on the driver's side, but it was so tight I used the AB seal on the pass side. I used the busing to push the seal in place, much easier. Placed the pivot bar in place. When placing the tool C-594 between the ends of the lower control arms it might be tight at the bolt holes and between the ends of the arms and torque to 165lbs