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Posts posted by Cpt.Fred

  1. does anyone have an oil flow chart for these full flow long block engines?


    i recently noticed that there is a passage connecting the pressure release valve canal directly to the main oil gallery.

    that would mean there is a chance for unfiltered oil to get into the bearings, bypassing the filter,

    although that pipe plug is installed. i'd love to know why it is there and how exactly the factory intended the pressure release piston to work.

    the whole thing is different from the short blocks.





    sorry for hijacking this...

  2. 14 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

    I’m not sure why the step up jets would influence cruise AFR.  If you’re running three carbs maybe there’s different spring rates for the springs between carbs?  Just a guess...

    That jet should be closed while cruising.   Vacuum should hold the plug down in that jet and block it off. 

    i will look into that. my experience is they move upwards pretty quickly once the butterflies open.


    by the way, you have to post a video of the car driving by and some more outside views of it :)

  3. thank you Jim, great info once again.


    i really had hoped for a place to buy these parts new and in logical order from lean to rich,

    but i guess that would be too easy...🤣


    i was running 159-59S mains in my triple carb setup on the 265. these were too lean at cruise. 159-61S were better, 14-14.5 AFR.

    the engine was drowning in fuel above 3000rpm and under heavy load in overdrive, i experienced 10,5-11 AFR, intolerable.

    i tried two sorts of step up jets, 149-113S (leaned out the cruise too much and still flooded under load) and 149- 43S (too much in general)...

    i can see the logic behind the numbers on the main jets, but the ones on the step ups don't quite add up for me.

    funny thing was that somehow the test results were not exactly what i had expected, especially changing the step ups had far bigger effects

    over the whole rpm range than i had thought before.


    good to know your measurements now, i will check the orifice diameters and then try soldering and drilling as well.

    another thing i did on my first triple setup on the old 201 was putting weaker springs into the step up jet assembly, allowing it to stay shut just a little longer.

    on the smaller engine that gave me pretty good results and the AFR was in an acceptable range.


    thanks for taking the time and sharing all your measurements!



  4. Jim,


    good job as always, i really love your car!


    speaking of jets, where do you get yours, and do you have a list that indicates which number jet is leaner or richer?

    i haven't found anything like that yet, and i would really like to see one. i always find it confusing to sort through the different

    mains and step ups and test drive them with the afr sensor, only to be confused again by their behaviour in the carb ;)





  5. Ha, nice picture there, Walt!

    that sure was a great day, i would have loved to have more time to chat with you, it was all a little too much to take in at once for me, i must admit.

    we went to dinner that evening and then back to George's the next day and said goodbye and talked some more, but unfortunately we had a tough schedule to get on our way to the east.

    i hope you had a good time at Carlisle!




  6. Jim, just like Andy i just stumbled upon the picture of your water pump rotor.


    i remembered, a guy i know from switzerland  had cooling trouble on a mopar flathead, took the coolant pump apart,

    found one of those 2 blade rotors like yours in it and then decided to replace the pump with one of these models, like i have on the bench right here:




    afterwards he said he had a better cooling and more coolant flow, if i remember correctly.

    i have both chinese and oem pumps with the multi finned rotors, both have been working fine.

    maybe you want to consider a swap as well, regarding your turbo plans and everything...

    but hey, if the shop said it would be up to the task. hope he knew abouth the turbo ;)


    i went for the 3/8" oil fitting on my oil filter swap and decided to run the line around to main oil gallery, so i did not have to drill the pump boss twice.

    looks good so far.


    can't wait until you fire yours up for the first time, keep up the great work!



  7. that's true, but i think it is a very narrow boss to drill the 2 holes in, like you did on your engine... don't know if i want to try to pull that off.

    plus we're running equal lenght tube headers, that take away lots of space. it's like a snake's nest on that side.

    but i haven't really decided yet, maybe i'll just measure some more and then go straight to copying your method :-)


    good one on the gear! the one i took out of mine is completely shot.

  8. sure does help, very cool! B) thank you!


    where did you get that super nice original cam gear? i've gotten CNC'd ones the last time i ordered them new.

    i'll get my engine back from the shop next week, will do the full flow conversion and then start the assembly

    (after cleaning it for days on end :)).

    i plan to drill the oil pump boss, plug it from underneath, get rid of the cross over tube in the crank case

    and instead enter the main oil gallery directly with an outside oil line.


    and now back to your thread!

  9. looking forward to your documentation of putting the timing gears and chain on in the correct way to get the valve timing right...

    i'm going to face the same challenge soon on a 230cui Dodge engine,

    this here will basically become my step by step manual to double check everything i'm doing. :)


    also i'm looking into getting a set of custom forged pistons for another engine, how long did it take JE to get yours made

    (the second time when they got it right)? I was also going to get a price estimate from Ross to see what they charge.

    yours aren't teflon coated or anything, are they?



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