Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Blog Comments posted by Cpt.Fred

  1. i finally got my tachometer rebuilt last week (the guy had it for 6 months :( )

    so when i've put it in the car i can tell exactly what the engine spins. right now it's more like 2200 at 85mph or so.

    the people that are winning the flat head classes here are running serious machinery, passes in the low 8s.

    i won't be able to keep up with them, but like i said, this is a cruiser :)

    otherwise we'd have chosen a different cam...

  2. I don't know anything about the big race and i don't want to speculate about it either. It was before my time here on the board, so...

    To your questions:

    1. i do not drag race the car in overdrive ;)

    the car has 3.54 gears in it now, in OD that's a hefty 2.34:1. too much for the engine, as i have found out. the 4.11 gives you a 2,71:1 in OD

    and much more punch from a standing start without OD, so that's why i'll be swapping 3rd members again this winter.

    with the 16" wheels i have a 28" wheel diameter, so with the 2,7 OD gearing ratio the engine will turn just under 2600rpm at 80mph, which is perfect for the

    cam i am running in it now.

    2. that Buick is pretty darn strong, so i don't know if i stand a chance, but it will surely seek my revenge next year (i know the guy who owns it).

    it's important to know that some of these cars are very well built and pretty strong for what they are, just like mine is "strong for what it is".

    of course it doesn't smoke tires like an overhead V8 with 300 and more cubic inches, and of course it doesn't go as fast as a model A with a stroked and bored out mercury block in it,

    but in comparison to the stock 201 setup it is of course waaaaay faster, and much more fun!

    3. we don't run quarter miles but 1/8 miles here in these vintage classes, because for 1/4s we do not have proper race tracks and it's non-commercial. track time is expensive...

    it's mostly air fields, a guy or gal with a flag, 2 old fashioned stop watches. only very rarely there are lights and photo sensors.

    the old 201 wasn't that tired, but of course the car was slow (still quicker than some others, though :) ).

    i think it was something around 13 seconds for the 1/8 mile, and that is slow, hehehe.

    don't know what it runs now, because i haven't gotten any time slips this year and didn't drag race anymore because of the high gears.

    it should at least run 11s with the new engine, i hope.

    4. cruise speed is between 70 and 80 mph. you cannot go slower than 65 with the gearing as it is, because the engine cannot pull when the rpms are too low in OD.

    the fastest i have run it is something between 85 and 90, it doesn't go any faster right now. the engine gets flooded with gasoline ( i am running O2 sensors)

    and i think it's a combination of the step up jets being too rich and the gears being to high. we are still figuring that out, changing jets, measuring, talking to George

    and his boys on the phone, and Tim of course, but it's a slow process because i have lots of work to do and don't get to wrenching as much as i would like to

    (then again who does... ;) ) also, don't forget the 1940 body is likely to create much more drag in comparison to a, say, 1950 model body.

    the taildragger stance surely doesn't help, nor does the huge sun visor. the wind gets pretty violent once you're above 75 mph or so...

    this winter i hope to get a lot of stuff done so next year tuning can go on. i think this car should be able to go 100mph flat out in the end, we'll see.

    BUT! driving it is something completely different. brakes and the general behaviour of the chassis and suspension (although completely rebuilt and modified)

    do not really allow going faster than maybe 80mph, if you want to travel safely. mind you, i am running bias ply tires, 10" drums and the original brake system.

    the density of traffic on german highways seldomly allows to keep a safe distance to the car running in front of you, and even if you're traveling the same speed

    as the others, it's outrageously dangerous in a car like this...

    i guess i'm already as good as dead when i hit something at 40, so imagine the carnage when i flip the thing going above 90...

    thanks, but no thanks ;)

    i have already discussed 12" drums with Tim, and i am planning to do something about that issue in the next years.

    best cruising speed is 60-80mph under realistic traffic conditions, and the 4.11 gears will help me to be in the right rpm range for those speeds

    to have enough punch and flexibilty, allowing me to react to traffic better than i can right now.

    when i want to go land speed racing, i can always swap the higher gears back in :)


  3. well, hate to disappoint you ;)

    i wasn't behind the wheel in the drive-by videos, my buddy Damir was driving and he didn't want to flog it too much,

    not being his material and all (i got to ride his 66 BelAir with 454 LS6 square port big block in return, and i was equally gentle),

    and "burnouts" are unfortunately still pretty impossible.

    i guess when i change back from 3,54 to 4,11 gears it might work, but somehow the 6.00x16 are holding up to the torque pretty good.

    at least as long the roads are dry, a little rain and it gets hairy.

    here's 2 pictures from the first drag race i went to in May this year.

    the Buick beat me by almost a full car length, but he got his OHV straight 8 bored out to over 300cui, dual carbs, headers, camshaft, and,

    last but not least, a 4,44:1 rear... i guess with a lower ratio than 3,54 i would have had a chance.

    plus i loose a lot of time when it comes to shifting with the column shift, i have to give it quite some time from first to second, otherwise the gears are scratching.

    his is a stick shift and works faster somehow, so from second gear on he was gone.


    here's proof that i can lay down a tiny little bit of rubber at least on one side ;)


    i wonder if there's any locker diffs out there for our kind of axle housing.

    otherwise one would have have to try the 8 3/4 type, but then again this car isn't a drag racer,

    it's a fast cruiser :)  and is was the first season, so there's a lot of room for improvement!

  4. here are 2 very nice pictures from that road trip,

    where we headed to a small Donau harbour to shoot some photos of our cars in the evening sun.

    these were taken by my friend Lukas, owner of the 29 model A coupe in the pics.



    now the first season is almost over, so far i have 8000km on the car with the new engine.

    i am going to take most of the drive train apart in the winter to check everything, fix some leaks, change the 3rd member in the rear end again,

    chase down some noises that i don't like,  do general maintenance work and and redo some things i didn't like in the first attempt.

    hopefully it will run even better and stronger next year!



  5. 2 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

    Very kool Fritz, odd though I just got an email notification and this is 2months old...

    Now this car needs to be out in the "Berlin Hood" and burnin rubber, roll on......

    maybe the you got the notification because i was uploading pics? can't do anything these days without being watched, hehehe...

  6. hey everyone,

    i finally get to update again... :-)

    first, the car is street legal since christmas!

    i haven't had much opportunity to test drive due to bad weather, snow, ice and the dreaded salt they throw everywhere,

    but what i can tell from the few miles i could ride the car is a blast and works really nice... can't wait for spring to show up.


    and second, the new air cleaners are done and i really like them. very subtle and functional, and i guess once they are worn in

    a little they should really camouflage the engine even more - just the way i like it :)

    hope you like them too:



    i'll shoot some more outside pics and maybe a video when i finally get the boat out of the dry dock again and do some spring runs :cool:




  7. another little update, before i forget.



    right now i'm still using the old air filter housings, but since these will be too restrictive

    we began producing new ones, or, more accurate, my friend Gobi did since i couldn't come over to help due to work...

    thanks a lot for that! :)

    these will be very subtle, black tin housings with a tiny stripe on them, just like on the oil filter container and breather cap,

    and accept 6,5" paper filter elements that guarantee sufficient cfm going into the engine.

    here's a mock up.




  8. oh, i will, believe me :)

    i'm always more like "yeah the glass might be half full but the keg is almost empty", sort of a pessimistic observer of things,

    but this machine here really brings a BIG smile on my face every time it comes to life. can't wait to go for a longer ride.

    i know a guy here who just bought a '41 coupe with a bonestock 201 in it. i gotta ask him if he lets me take it for a ride,

    so i can really savour and experience the difference.



  9. i got to work and put it in the car in like 20 seconds :)


    don't worry, i put up jack stands first before i crawled under it. ;)




    and i immediatly had to take it out for a short spin, although it started to snow half an hour later.

    even though it was just a very short spin and i was really careful due to slippery road conditions i think

    everything is alright now and the new shaft works perfectly, no noises, no vibrations, nothing.

    as soon as the salt has been washed away i will get the car inspected and road legal again and i hope for a very mild winter here!

    from what i can say now, this engine pulls hard and the car is a ton of fun with all the mods that i did over the last 2 years! :)


  10. wow, has it really been that long since i updated? man...

    so, work stepped in the way for the last months and i didn't even have the time to shave properly :)

    here's a small summary of what happenend in the meantime.

    as you saw, the car was up and running in August and i went on several test runs to adjust the shifter linkage and test the OD.

    since George told me specifically not to "baby it", on the end of a test run with the engine nicely warmed up, i came back into

    the yard here with several other car guys standing there waiting for me to return, and decided to really step on it for the first time.

    the rear wheels screamed, i heard a LOUD bang from under the car, and let off instantly.... here's what happened:


    both rear spring mounts were sheared off the axle housing and my drive shaft was a prezel.

    this day will be remembered by the bystanders as the first time Torquezilla raised his ugly head and demanded a sacrifice :D

    we have quite a reputation now around here. what a mess... i guess i should have checked those old welds before i put the axle back in there,

    because it clearly must have been material failure.


    i put everything back together the same day, but had to see that the drive shaft had been badly bent

    and one of the trunnion type u-joints was busted.


    so i had to get a new drive shaft made,

    and i wanted modern truck style u-joints and a yoke and overall something that could take much more of a beating than the old part.

    i had to wait a very long time until they finally delivered, because they had trouble fabricating the adapters to put the drive shaft in center

    and weld them to the u-joint brackets, but last sunday i finally got my new drive shaft!



  11. alright.... the nose went back on the car!


    with the help of 2 friends we managed to adjust all the clearances just like they were before,

    so you don't see it was apart. it's pretty tight in there now, but everything fits and i could finish all the

    wiring and other little pieces.


    nose is back on!


    tight in its new home


    hooking up the last little wires...

    then i decided to take the exhaust apart again,
    because the old mufflers just couldn't cope with the beat of the new engine.
    i had ordered a set of 30" Smithy's and welded them into the tubes.

    muffler comparison


    welding in the 30" Smithy's


    welding the second muffler

    so much better now!
    then i started completing the inside of the car and put all the rugs and rubbers back in.

    completing the inside


    it's going to come down soon!

    and then, last friday, it finally left the shop on its own power... :)





  12. i have dealt with a lot of tiny details since the last update, so for all those still following this nonsense.... :)

    ...here it is.


    took a closer look to the steering box adjustment AGAIN because i felt i still hadn't solved all the mysteries.

    thanks to help from the board i got my hands on the steering manual from chrysler and was able to do it right this time.

    this is how it should look, i guess.


    steering manual page06


    hard left play


    center No play


    hard right play

    afterwards i tried to adjust the handbrake, decided to take it apart and weld a little material to a worn out part,
    filed it all down nice and smooth and now i guess it should work! :) one tricky piece of machinery, this brake band...
    last thing i just completed a few minutes ago was to apply new fender welting to the a-pillars.
    i wanted to go real "old-school" on this (hate the term by now, it has been overused during the past years) and bought
    tar soaked cloth binding from Steele. outrageously expensive, yes, but it works really well and looks just like it was before.
    only drawback is that it isn't available in the correct width for the fenders, but two layers solve the problem and it cannot be seen afterwards.
    you'll need the welting, scissors, a heat gun and a hollow punch for the bolt holes.

    wender welting, scissors, heat gun


    starting with the fender welting


    first row applied


    second row applied


    driver side finished


    passenger side finished

    can't wait to put that nose piece back on...


  13. never! lol...


    yesterday the lamda port got welded in and afterwards i did the final assembly.

    i partially wrapped the front flame tube to protect the vacuum pump and the OD governor

    from the exhaust heat. the metal was painted with linseed oil and "burnt in" afterwards.

    it turns black and prevents corrosion, i treat my Harley headers the same way and they

    stay nice and black and keep that certain "steam engine" look that i love so much.

    now it matches the overall appearance and you wouldn't think it was freshly built. :)

    that's how i like it...


    welded bung for lamda testing


    heat wrap to protect the vac pump and OD governor


    flame tubes installed


    closeup of front dump


    closeup of rear dump

  14. i just had to laugh when i saw that last sentence i wrote on July 11th.

    still working on the exhaust.

    amazing how much work it is when you cannot buy anything off the shelf.


    cutting, welding, testing, repeat.

    grinding, sanding, grinding, welding, grinding, sanding.

    but i'm getting there...


    fabricating exhaust hangers




    rear exhaust hanger mock up


    grinding and sanding the flame tubes


    exhaust piece closeup


    grinding the inside of the flanges


    muffler adapter for rear dump flame tube


Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use