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Loren

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About Loren

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban

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  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  1. Also remember the area from the top of the piston to the top of the top ring is part of the area of the combustion chamber. When you bore a block you are in fact increasing the size of the combustion chamber. No matter how close the piston comes to the cylinder head and because of piston rock there has to be considerable clearance, which increases as the piston's diameter increases. Increases in cylinder bore can actually lower compression ratios in short stroke engines because of this. In long stroke engines there isn't enough area increase to make a measurable increase in CR. As a general rule hot rodders don't consider increases in cylinder volume for purposes of compression ratio from boring to be worth calculating. I know it is counter intuitive.
  2. On compression ratios: Boring a block does nothing to increase a compression ratio and may even lower it. A bigger bore increases the area over the piston. Stroking a crank increases the CR dramatically. So if you have a short stroke engine with the same CR as a long stroke engine, then the head has a smaller chamber than than the long stroke. In that case you could get more CR using short stroke head. Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water: Because of the way machinists re-grind cranks, you might find a 6 cylinder with 6 different strokes! Wear or dings say .010 deep would take .020 to clean up with the original stroke. The grinder machines on both sides of the journal. So the savy machinists adjust the centerline of that cylinder to clean the journal at .010. Personally I hate it but that’s standard practice. You can complain all you want but they are not going to listen to you. SO you can carefully adjust the volume of the chambers to make them all equal and still have the CRs all over the place because of the crankshafts strokes. Next is the camshaft: A stock docile cam will have much more pressure on a compression gauge than a hot cam. Because of that it will start easier too. Something to think about when you’re wedded to 6 volts. Automotive engineering is all about the compromises you are willing to make. Most of them have been made before you even see the car you plan to soup up. Flatheads, siamese intake ports are all the stuff we have to live with, don’t over think it.
  3. I've come to the conclusion that the original style pinion seal is not a seal at all. It's a cruel hoax perpetrated on the poor hobbyist! I am putting together a spare differential (with an alternate ratio) for my Suburban. OMG! This is the nastiest seal I've ever tried to install! Pinion seals should not be that hard to install. Modern stuff with silicone outer rims are designed to go in with a little more than thumb pressure. There is no way you can get an original in while on your back under the car. Yet that is exactly how most pinion seals are changed. So after a frustrating failure I went to my local NAPA looking for a modern seal. The counterman was in no mood to re-engineer a 67 year old Plymouth so what I got was the listed seal for my car. The outer edge has the dry sealant coating and there is no felt dust seal. It's tap-in to fit in the housing and a reasonable thumb push fit for the yoke. You could easily install this seal while on your back under the car....if you could get the old out! The NAPA part number 18880 price $20 so for $70 (with the "Speedi Sleeve") you can be assured of a leak free differential and you won't be frustrated.
  4. Redline has for years made gear lubes that performed. We used them in off road racing in a car that had a notoriously weak transmission and never had a failure. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that thicker lube isn’t always better. A thinner lube can run cooler and if temperature is killing your bearings as in our case, thinner is better. The factory recognized this and went from 90 wt to 75 wt which is like water, then settled on 30 wt motor oil. I have always tried to drain a transmission and replace the lube with ATF before pulling it for repair. A few hundred miles with ATF in them makes the rebuild process so much easier because when you take them apart the inside is razor clean. I haven’t figured out how to clean the outside as easily yet. Redline lube gets my endorsement whole heartedly. I know the Overdrive gurus are fixated on GL-1, but my experience with ball and roller bearings, brass syncros and sprag clutch freewheeling makes me think there’s a Redline product that will work fine.
  5. TBI is great if you don't have a lot of underwood space, because it fits in the space of a carburetor. My all time favorite injection is Bosch CIS. It's considered obsolete now days but boy did it work good! Extremely easy to fix when something went wrong and it was easy to modify. It was mostly hydraulic with a temp sensor (aka warm up regulator) that regulated control pressure, a cold start valve and a fast idle device. The airflow sensor was a flap in a Venturi. Bog simple but took up a lot of space. Three basic spare parts and you're ready for the apocalypse. 1) Fuel pump 2) Fuel filter 3) Warm up regulator A customer drove a 1978 SAAB 99 80,000 miles without a service (he just changed oil) before it stopped running and had to be towed. We did the 80,000 mile service and it ran like a top!
  6. That's what I would think too. On the SAAB V4 the WW worked very well with the bowl on the side (one barrel ahead of the other). I did it that way because the stock linkage could be used and the carburetor didn't seem to care. The factory two barrels sat crosswise diagonal to the center of the engine with the float bowl forward (the sister engine Ford V6 as used in the Mercury Capri had the same goofy set up) and you could never get a smooth reliable throttle action in the SAAB. Float bowl forward would cause the three ports to get a fairly even mixture. Float bowl to the side would have the mixture drawing from the closest barrel. The main reason to go bowl forward is fuel starvation under acceleration. I had that problem with Webers but never with the WW. (another reason it was my favorite) In another post there is a discussion of a Thickstun manifold with 2 singles. Googling Thickstun brought up a photo of a Manifold he made for an 8 cylinder Chrysler flathead. This had 97s as I recall with float bowl forward. I think I'll have another look at that.
  7. That sure looks like a Bendix-Stromberg WW. The diagonal accelerator pump link is what I look for first. One of those served a 107cid 7,000+rpm 4 cylinder just fine. I was thinking two might work as well on a 265cid 4,000+rpm 6 cylinder. They use the same jets as a 97 but are much shorter and seem to be very versatile. The carburetor guy who introduced me to them even put one on a 450SL which everyone claimed ran better than its original fuel injection! Since they put a lot of them on MoPar cars, some have the provision for the Overdrive kick-down switch I need. Now which way to mount them? Barrels in line or crossways?
  8. I've been reading one of the history books and there is a mention of a "Power Pack'" kit that MoPar sold for the 1956 Plymouth PowerFlow 6. (apparently Dodge installed these at the factory for their cars....) The book said it had a Stromberg dual throat carburetor and it raised the output to 131 hp! My question which the book didn't elaborate on is which Stromberg carburetor? My all time favorite is called a Bendix-Stromberg WW. They were used on lots of V8s including Dodge and Studebaker. I had lots of success adapting them to SAAB 96 V4 engines and even set a Dry Lakes speed record with one. I have a project I am working on which I'd like to keep "period correct" and the WW would fit my "skill set" and parts bin nicely.
  9. For years I worked on Swedish and German cars, I never had to adjust the pedal push rod. Then I rebuilt the brake system on a Morris Minor. I was shocked that the manufacturing tolerances finally caught up with me. Happily I knew what to do. After that experience I got a little more fussy about that adjustment. Apparently the Chrysler engineers who wrote the shop manuals I have were fussy about the pedal adjustment too, because they describe what happens it each point in the pedal depression.
  10. Honestly, I'd worry more about the brake light bulbs burning the lens on your tail lights. My favorite year Plymouths have plastic lenses and those bulbs get hot! Sitting with your foot on the brake for extended periods taxes more than just the Fluid Drive. I'd kick it out of gear and apply the hand brake. Just saying, consider the cost of replacement lenses.
  11. Hi James, The closest thing he has are the Imperial, the DeSoto and a very sad Plymouth Business Coupe. But he's got a pile of manual transmissions in so many variations I was surprised they made so many (no Overdrives) There is a bone yard in Arizona that has a bunch of 1952-54 Windsors which might still have what you need. www.dvap.com is the web site. I'd like to go see the place, let me know if you'd like to go. (I have a pickup to transport treasures)
  12. Well, now I know more than I did before! All good suggestions. Part of this wrecking yard deal is a 1950 DeSoto donor car. So it’s a question of the path of least resistance verses effectiveness and future spares. Happily I have a machine shop so making a part isn’t impossible.
  13. Hmm Well, this is why I asked. After reading your reply I checked Andy's site and you are painfully correct some of the parts are pretty spendy or just not available. Due to the wrecking yard closing, I'll be getting the Imperial like it or not. Once I have it I can pull some parts and see if there are any solutions. When you read about putting 12 x 2 inch Lincoln Zephyr hydraulic brakes on a Model A, it sounds rather involved but they do it every day. What got me was the one vendor offering "remanufactured" Imperial drums for nearly $600! All it would take to ruin my day would be one bad drum or the nagging notion I might need one years from now. Hmm indeed. Perhaps 11 x 2 is more practical.
  14. I have found a 1952 Imperial two door (pillar less hardtop) that somebody took apart decades ago that's sitting in wrecking yard. The wrecking yard is going to close soon so with a little wheeling and dealing it will be delivered to my garage. My thought was to transfer the brakes and the differential (if it is a 3.53, I already have a 3.73) to my 1952 Suburban. The brakes fill the wheels, so I figure they are 12 x 2 inch. I am guessing the wheels are 15 x 5.5 inches vs the Plymouth's 15 x 4.5. I am thinking I can drive out the King Pins in the front and use the Imperial spindles. In the rear the Imperial Brakes should fit the Plymouth rear axle housing. The rest of the car can be had for cheap and I detected zero rust in the body. It's a real shame it's been allowed to waste away in a bone yard. Is there anything I need to know about this plan? I am correct in my guesses about the brakes and the wheels.
  15. Loren

    My new 54

    What a lovely gift for a son from a Dad! My eldest son got the 66 Mustang his grand parents drove. He rewarded their memory by doing a truly expert restoration with updates. He made it his own and he made it far nicer than the factory ever made one even by accident! It took years but he has a car he can be proud of. Because it was such a precious car with a beloved history, while he worked on it he got another "first car" to drive. So.... There are lots of "Disposable cars" for kids to drive. That's all a guy I know drives. He calls them "Leavers". He only puts fuel in them and changes the oil when he buys one. After that if it dies on the road, he signs the title and leaves it on the seat under the keys, gathers his gear and calls a friend to pick him up. Hence the name "Leaver". You can tell your son his car is much admired even in this state.
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