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whippersnapper48

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    48 Plymouth Special Deluxe Survivor, 50 Ford Woodie, 50 Ford Business coupe, 30 Model A Tudor; too many to list

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  • Biography
    Flathead fanatic with a carpentry problem to pay for it!
  • Occupation
    Don't know yet

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  • Location
    Boxborough, MA
  • Interests
    My ten antique Fords and one Bastard Plymouth!

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  1. The starter is out, dismantled, and waiting for parts to come in. There was lots of metal shards in the nose cone and the drive won't return on its own. I have the inspection plate off for the clutch/flywheel as well. Everything isfine on inspection inside there.
  2. This is a good thought, but the car has not moved and is in neutral when it's started. Somehow, the starter drive is not disengaging when the car starts for some reason. When it warms up a bit and I have more time, I'm going to make a few shims and see what happens.
  3. Thanks for responding. I hope thats not the case, because I didn't pull the starter until it the noise happened after the mount swap. The hardware looks original from what I can see. I was going to just shim the starter with a couple washers to see if that fixed the issue.
  4. I lost one of the rear engine mounts on my 48 Plymouth, so today I decided to do the swap. Everything went well until it came time to fire her up. The starter was making a a rattling sound when I was cranking like the bendix was about to go. when she finally caught, it was an awful high pitched squeal coming from that area of the bell housing. I pulled the starter and dropped the clutch dust shroud to see what was going on. no sign of anything a rye in there, and the flywheel spins freely without any issue. The starter spins over fine under its own power, but but back in there, it makes that damn awful screech! My guess is I have a broken starter drive somehow causing the drive to catch and stay engaged while trying to run. Am I on the right track? Any pointers? Thanks in advance, Jon
  5. Greg, we have successfully solved the problem. The fan is whirring at top speed! Who do you recommend for getting a repop switch from? Jon
  6. I have an aftermarket switch that lights up when switched on. It lights up when the ground is not connected. When connected to the frame,the light goes out. Very odd
  7. The car is 100 percent original. Including paint and upholstery
  8. I pulled the old aftermarket heater out of the car because of a leaky core. when it was hitched up, the fan worked. I got a known good original heater from a friend of mine that worked when hitched to a battery. sadly nothing now that its in the car. The switch is good, and its a two wire one. Thoughts gents? Jon
  9. So I finally got the floor off with no issues. There's a lot of rust there, and someone did a decent patch but didn't cut out the rust; just sprayed it. A word of advice to anyone who plans to put in a brand new master: The front loop that goes over the pedal assembly shaft has to be drilled out .010" in order to except the shaft. a 3/4" drill bit works perfectly for this application.
  10. Well, that settles it then. Looks like I'll be pulling the front seat and the floor this morning. From what I understand, there is only 8 screws holding the floor to the frame? Thanks again for all the responses!
  11. As the title states, I tried to remove the old master cylinder today, and the car won. The only way I see removal possible is by removing the brake pedal off the main center shaft, and then pulling the master off after. I tried wood to pry it, bars, everything! Yes I removed the horseshoe off the shaft end, and got it to within a quarter inch of being off. Im missing something stupid easy; what is it? Am I taking apart the wrong part of the horse? Jon
  12. Hey all, The title says it all. My p15 is running great, but doesn't like grabbing without a pretty high engine rev. Anyone have the schematics for the original Mopar gauge? Thanks, Jon
  13. Thanks all! As always, old car people are the best and first to help. I have pretty extensive knowledge when it comes to flat head v8's and fours, but the Mopar world is a different language. Im learning that I like this language.
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