bobus8

Congrats on the car Paul. It's beautiful. I noticed in the picture you posted that the ground wire with a sharp bend in the 11:00 position near the edge of the distributor housing could be broken internally. Just something else for you to check.

I recall driving down some of those old roads as fast as my Dad's 48 P15 would go. That was FUN!!! Now, 60 years later, I realize that I'm not invincible so I'm happy to just cruise around 35 to 50 mph on the secondary roads. I would still like more power in the old 6 cylinder though.

Last week I put a cowl vent gasket on my 47 Plymouth. I got if from Andy Bernbaum at "oldmoparts.com for $35.00. I don't know what your setup is but for mine, I got the single piece gasket and it works fine. (No leaking). The vent door was sticking to the gasket for a while until I put some silicone on it and now it works great. I have gotten plenty of parts from this site and have been satisfied 99.9% of the time.

It Might be a little tough to squeeze one in but I think one of the 1950s Firepower Hemi engines would be pretty cool.

BTW the Clock oil I use is made by Nye Lubricants. 140B

This is a direct quote from the internet. "The difference between sewing machine oil and clock oil is that sewing machine oil is designed to spread, while clock oil is supposed to stay where you put it." I was just looking for a place to purchase the clock oil and came across Ronell Clock Company located in Oregon. Not only do they sell the clock oil, but they have a clock cleaning spray that they say leaves no residue.

I would suggest you take it to a good clock shop. You can also purchase a small bottle of clock oil from a clock shop. (very expensive). You can apply it with the pointed end of a toothpick to the bearings at each end of the moving parts. I have a grandfather clock that I only oil once every year with the clock oil and it has run find for 35 years. I wipe the bearing areas with a lint free cloth using lighter fluid. As far a cleaning it goes, that would be up to you what to use. The following cleaners are some of the cleaners I use for cleaning various things. Non chlorinated brake clean is supposed to leave no residue and it sprays. If it is really gummed up, berkebile gum cutter should work. It's a much more aggressive cleaner. Ronsonol Lighter fluid (from local drug stores) is a less aggressive cleaner but does not spray. You might want to do some research to see what types of cleaners may be on the market for this. Hope this helps.

Wattage is calculated by multiplying voltage times amperage. Also, if you are running 12 volt system, your battery is probably charging at 14 vdc. Using 14 as your voltage and applying 10 amp as maximum wattage (if motors are stalled), you are looking at a 10 ohm 140 watt resister. You can probably get away with a lot less wattage than this. Just so you know, you can put two 20 ohm resisters of 50 watts each in parallel (wired beside each other) to get a 100 watt 10 ohm setup which might be all you need. Of course you can lower the ohms rating for more power if needed.

Sam, he said "If I let off the accelerator the car would idle fine, but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car sounded like it was about to back fire and then it would stop." I'm just saying that a really weak spark can cause these exact symptoms. Also, he already replaced everything in the fuel system including the carburetor and still has the same symptoms. BTW, mine displayed the exact same symptoms before it would stop. Also, Batman13, pull your coil wire and crank the engine to see what your spark looks like. It should have some blue in it. Completely orange is an indication of a weak coil.

I have to second what joecoozie said about the coil. Several years ago I had a similar problem where the car would run for 12 miles on the highway and then cut off. After a 5 or 10 minute cool down the car ran fine for another 12 miles. New coil fixed the problem. BTW, it also burned up the wire from the ignition switch.

This pickup looks similar to the one in my 47 Plymouth. Just so you know, these pickups float on top of the oil so if there is a possibility of sinking then you would want it either repaired or replaced.

Sounds to me like a Broken piston. Could be a rod knock. Listening to the drivers side of the block with a stethoscope may help identify a particular cylinder if it is a broken piston. My recommendation is to pull the oil pan and look for pieces of "stuff". I wouldn't think that something is bouncing between the piston and the head but the oil pan gasket is the cheapest way to go to check internals as far as I know. If nothing is found in oil pan, you might consider pulling the head off.

This is just a guess but the first thing that comes to mind is vapor lock since it seems to be ok in cold weather driving. If it is this, make sure your fuel lines are not routed too close to exhaust pipe and not too close to engine. If so, a simple fix is to wrap several layers of tin foil around the line in hot areas. I don't know how old your fuel pump is but that might be the next thing to check. Put a pressure gauge on it to see how much pressure it is producing.

Wow! That is cleaning up pretty good. I just bought a 47 business coupe a month ago but mine is pretty rusty.