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About hi_volt

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth P-15 Special Deluxe Business Coupe

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  • Biography
    Lived in Tucson since 1988
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer


  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, antique radios, antique TV sets

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  1. I found one on Ebay with the correct outlet angle. Made by Superior Radiator.
  2. Sam, did you go with the 1/0 or 2/0 wire?
  3. I finally got the engine bay clean enough to start looking at the state of everything. As expected, the wiring is very crispy and fragile and much of it will need to be patched or replaced before I apply any power to the car. I got enough of the dirt and small amount of grease off the engine to see the orange paint on the head and block. No significant rust. I pulled the oil bath air cleaner and cleaned it up. The oil in there hadn't been changed for a long time - there was a lot of sludge at the bottom, but I got it all cleaned out and am planning on keeping it. I pulled and inspected the spark plugs. They look OK, but there is a little black soot from the engine running rich, so I'm going to replace them. The plug wires are toast and need to be replaced. The starter wire insulation has crumbled to dust (see picture below). I'll be replacing that and the battery and ground cables with minimum 0 gauge new cables. In general, everything looks to be complete, mostly original, and in pretty good shape. Here are some pix.
  4. Yeah, I saw that it appeared available at Jegs,, but if you try to order it, the Jegs site indicates that it will ship directly from the manufacturer. I went to the Champion web site and it is listed as "out of stock".
  5. Well, it appears that the CC4749 is pretty much unobtainum unless I want to pay $400-$800. Seems that they used to go for around $225 but every distributor is out of stock. I guess I'll keep my old radiator for a bit until I see some stock come in.
  6. Very nice car! Once things cool off a little bit here in Tucson, I'll be able to spend more time working on my 1947 P15 and get it on the road. Looks like you're having a great time!
  7. Thanks! The clearance from my stock radiator fins to the water pump is just about 2-3/8" as well. The stock fan blades get as close as about 1-1/2" away from the radiator fins at the bottom of the radiator - their closest point. I should probably check the dimensions of the CC4749 in relation it its mounting bracket to make sure it clears the fan blades on the engine side and the horn bracket on the grille side. I don't mind having to make some simple adapters, but I'd like to keep my horns original as well as the cooling fan.
  8. I'm considering changing my old radiator, which is in unknown condition, to an aluminum one in my P15. I want to keep the stock cooling fan and keep all of the mounting brackets original if possible. Looking through all of the threads on radiators, I haven't seen a post where someone has just been able to bolt one in. It seems that the closest match would be the Champion CC4749 with the 90 degree top connection, and then cutting off the 90 degree section. Has anyone done that, and will the radiator clear the fan and mount to the original brackets?
  9. hi_volt

    Too hot to

    My garage isn't air conditioned, but at least gets a good cross breeze with the big fan I have at one end. I usually do most of my shop work from about 6am to 11am this time of year (on my days off). It can get a bit uncomfortable during the monsoon season here.
  10. Update....Work is progressing on the engine bay clean up. It turns out that most of the dirt is just a thin layer of desert dust from sitting in the PO's back yard for ten years, and is cleaning up pretty nicely. There are some greasy area towards the bottom of the engine, but really just a thin layer that will easily clean off with some Ultra Dawn. As I'm getting the engine and bay cleaned up, I can see some remnants of orange paint on the block and the head. The engine is out of a 1954 P25, so is not original to the car, though I don't think the 54's engines were painted orange at the factory. I'd like to keep the engine as correct as possible for a 1947, which if I recall correctly, is silver. I found the missing chrome trim that is supposed to go between the passenger side door vent window and the roll-down window. When I removed the cardboard door panels, I discovered that it broke off of the part attached to the bottom of the window and fell inside the door, so I'll need to either have the two pieces welded back together or find a replacement. I'll post some additional pix of the engine bay next weekend when I get farther along.
  11. Ooooh. Me likey! Looking forward to some more pictures.
  12. There are several ways to go about it. I'm planning on doing it slowly and manually, using several buckets of water, a pair of gloves, some simple green, a soft brush and lots of sponges. This won't be a perfect cleaning. I'm primarily after getting the dirt and grime off of it so I can work on it. I want to be particularly careful that I don't get any water or degreaser into any areas that there shouldn't be any. It's way easier and more pleasant to work on a clean engine. I'm not in a big hurry since the car is garaged, so I don't mind taking extra time and care. As far as wiring goes, it's over 70 years old and is pretty crispy, so I'm being realistic and understand that it will need to be replaced before the car is ready to drive, but I will be careful not to damage anything as I do my cleaning and general tidy-up.
  13. After a long weekend of cleaning up, I finally finished cleaning the outside. I need to find, or have made, windows for the passenger and driver doors. I'm also missing the chrome trim that goes between the vent window and the roll-down window on the passenger side. The next step is to clean up the engine bay, which is also quite dirty. Here are some pictures I took this morning of the outside and of the engine bay. I recently purchased a Philco 802 radio and speaker, which I'm going to restore, a dash clock, and a lighter. I plan to fully option the dash. I'll be purchasing some brake parts shortly.
  14. What kind of modern rims did you end up going with?
  15. I'm generally not a big fan of the patina look either. Buffing, polishing and waxing the existing paint is just a short-term thing to get some kind of protection on the finish, and to make it so that the car doesn't look neglected. Eventually it will get the necessary body work done and will be painted. It's being garaged and I live in Arizona, so I don't expect the rot to get too far out of hand for the moment. The previous owner drained the gas tank and removed it, and also drained the coolant before storing it, so I don't think I'll have major issues with bad gas. The engine turns over by hand, so it's not frozen. The electrical wiring is almost 100% intact but is very crispy and has a few places where the insulation just fell apart. I have the wiring diagram, and am an electronic engineer, so re-doing the electricals is not a major issue for me. The major priorities will be finishing the general clean up (the car was filthy from being stored outdoors for the past 10 years and it's easier and more pleasant to work on a clean car), re-doing the wiring, servicing the brakes, then getting the engine running, in that order.
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