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Spencer1

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Everything posted by Spencer1

  1. Yes Gentlemen, I am from Germany and my English is .... Tomorrow I will get the engine back from the workshop. Halleluja! We decided to go for a cold play of 0,045 mm or 0.0018 inch for piston and bore. This is very few in comparision to modern engines. But the original pistons are fitted with nearly 0 play, only by 6 pounds of force to pass through the bore. Explanation may be that the specific power of the engine is very low and the inner cooling by fat mixture is high. So I dont expect major troubles. I will keep you informed Best Regards and stay healthy.
  2. I am pretty sure that you are right. But the clearance of only 0,0015 sounds very strange I will try to contact them
  3. Dear all Unfortunately I had to disassemble my engine due to a huge oil consumption. Reason was a totally worne liner. In the workshop we saw that we had to go for 0,60 oversize. I got now new pistons in 0,60. But not originals. The ones I got are from Federal Mogul, very basic pistons, 37P for engines 218 and 230 ci My question: The original pistons have, as far as I know, a play of 0,0030 to 0,00374 inches. The minimal Play for the new FM Pistons is, following Federal Mogul, 0.015 inch. see attached picture. This is extreme small. Does anyone know, by experience, which is the best Play for liner and piston for this engine? Its important for the reboring of the liner. Many thanks in advance and best regards, Michael
  4. Yes, thank you all. That’s exactly what I believe. So I will treat it with Snake Oil from the fuel and engine oil side. If this doesn’t help I will pull the pistons out, hoping the bore is still in good conditions. Would not be the first time to start with a small issue and ending up disassembling the whole engine. cheers Mike
  5. You are joking! Of course I changed the oil the day after buying it. But I had to do 40 miles to get it home. Today I changed my oil because I was running since them always with 20W50. Now I have SAE30 inside. I want to see if this influences the oil consumption. The last trial before pulling the pistons
  6. Yes, Thats correct. The whole crankcase ventilation system is original and standard. No fording kit. In addition I have cleaned it completely. Also the valve on the Carburetor side. I think the most reliable theorie is that the old and used oil in the oil rings has got gummy during these 10 years of stillstanding. And the drainig holes in the pistons are closed by this gummy.
  7. Yes, looks very high. But I have no idea if the cylinder head has been machined in the past or if my compression tester is accurate. But all this doesnt tell you anything about the condition of the oil rings. So I have to pay the oil or to pull the pistons
  8. I did the compression test with warm engine and wide open throttle. And a new 6 volt starter which runs really fast. All cylinders between 136 and 153 PSI. Or in SI units: 9,4 to 10,6 bar. The technical Manual wants to see around 100 PSI with a maximum tolerance of 20%. My compression instrument is not calibrated. But all values are looking pretty high and the tolerance is about +/- 5%. Thats absolutely ok for my understanding. In addition I changed the 20w50 to a SAE30 oil to check the influence of the oil regarding my high consumption. But what I will never understand is that the manual and everybody tells about a total of 5 qts of engine oil until its full. But my dip stick needs 6 qts to indicate full. I checked the dip stick and its tube with others dodges of the same type and there is no difference. And I dont no nothing about different oil pans. Any way, an overfilling is not the cause of the high consumption because even if the level is at half, it continious consuming too much.
  9. I will do the compression test on weekend, warm. After this I will change my oil to SAE 30. Lets see what happens
  10. Hi Jeff A friend of mine, engineer at Ford and having several WW2 US army vehicles and tanks is saying the same. He is absolutely against snake oils. But visiting Brasil he saw that they are using a lot MMO to keep their fuel systems clean. You may know that Brazil is using a high content of Biofuel in their stuff. In Europe we have the same problem because they are mixing the fuel with 5-10% Ethanol. And this causes a lot of problems with the old engines and fuel systems such as tank corrosion, dirty carburetors etc. Especially when they are parked during the winter period. Since he is mixing MMO to his vehicles he has no problems any more. I believe him. There must be solvent in the MMO which helps here. Regarding my oil consumption problem I will change the 20W50 oil to SAE30. Maybe that during the normal operation the 20W50 is thinner than the SAE 30. I will look for a VT diagram. Michael
  11. Hi Frank Coolant rail = water distribution tube. Ventilator = down draft tube ? Breather = oil crank case tube breather or air breather ? Yes, sorry. Thats German English. Ventilator should be "fan"? My breather is a small filter element fitted to the the tube to the crankcase where you are adding engine oil
  12. Yes, maybe a complex problem. But the car has a normal fuel consumption, comparing to others with the same type. Carburetor is Zenith, clean and without any problem as far as I can see. Maybe I have to clean the air filter to reduce the pressure loss? I havent done this before because I got the car 2000 miles ago..
  13. Thanks all I am using a oldtimer 20W50 oil from Liqui Moli with low additives. Unfortunately I have no idea if the engine was rebuild completely or if they fixed only head and crankshaft bearing. However the oil pump and bearings must be in a very good shape, showing maximum pressure of 50 at normal speed. The coolant rail in the engine block was replaced by a new one. The crankcase ventilation is completely cleaned. I tried also to protect the breather against the ventilator, but with no results. There is no pressure coming from the ventilator. Last weekend I tried an anticarbon treatment with verylube to remove the soot from combustion chamber and rings, but no results. Even at starting the engine after one night having the anticarbon inside there was absoltuely no smoke, nothing. I thought my neighbors would kill me but no trace of the anticarbon. So I assume it has passed by the rings and disappeared in the engine oil. After running 30 miles, Spark plugs are covered again with satin black soot, but not oily at all. Elektrodes are free and normal. Next weekend I will do a compression test with warm engine.But this doesnt tell me anything about the oil rings.
  14. Thanks a lot I heard already a lot of adding ATF or brakefluid. I think that will be a chance before removing the pistons. Cheers
  15. Thanks, but Rislone increases the oil viskosity. My problem is different. My compression rings seem to be ok but the oil rings cant move and are stucked because old oil and carbon is closing the small pistons drenage bores. So I have to get this carbon or old oil dissolved to get this rings moving and sealing again
  16. Thanks for your posts! I checked and cleaned already the crankcase ventilation. The breather is 360 Degree open. I closed the side towards the ventilator with tape. But no changes. The engine consumes a lot of oil. While removing the spark plugs you can see that the combustion chamber is full of non-solid sblack oot. Also the spark plug. So the only way I am loosing oil is by burning it. If it is not a mistake in the crankcase ventilation, the only remaining cause must be the oil rings. Maybe they are stucked because the car wasnt moved during 10 years, having still the old engine oil inside. But before pulling out the pistons, I would like to know if somebody has experience with chemical removal of carbon around the piston rings, especially the oil ring which is the lowest and most difficult to access with any liquid or spray. I dont believe in snake oils but one of my colleagues (Ford engine engineer) says that Marvel Mystery Oil may dissolve that carbon if you mix it into the engine oil. The problem is that there are a lot of tutorial videos in the internet about that stuff, but I dont know if you can trust them because they have a clear commercial background. Therefore again my question: Anybody who has experience with snake oils for carbon removal? Thanks a lot in advance
  17. Hi there Hope somebody can help me. I am still struggling with high oil consumption on my 43 Dodge WC truck. The engine needs a quart on 300 km but: without leakages. I cant detect blue smoke while driving. Only with high Rpm something is visble Opening the oil filler cap during Idle, no smoke is visible, neither high pressure. All spark plugs are showing black carbon like black powder No loss of power is detectable History of the engine is unknown Car has done 1000 km after restoration and then been left alone for 10 years without moving in a dry garage because the owner had some health troubles and couldnt drive anymore So, before disassembling the engine, I assume that the oil rings are stucked due to the 10 years stillstand. Anybody here who has some experience with stucked oil rings, using Marvel Mistery oil or something like this? Cheers, Mike
  18. Dear Gentlemen, fellows My Dodge WC 3/4 ton from 43 is equipped with an original Flat 6 with 230 cubic inch, Type T-214. 93 SAE at 3200 Rpm, 6,7:1 compression, Carburetor Zenith, 6 Volt equipment. Normal valve adjustment following the technical manual from us army: inlet and outlet 0,010 inch go and 0,012 inch nogo in hot conditions. Original text: "Run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. Hold the tappet with wrench and adjust the screw until a 0,010 inch feeler gage will not (I think this "not" is a typo in the original manual) go between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a 0,012 ich feeler gage will not go between the adjsuting screw and valve stem on both intake and exhaust valves" On the weekend I adjusted my engine valves as described in the TM and the Technical Tips (very useful, many thanks!) in this forum I pre-adjusted in cold with still standing engine Inlet: 0,012 and outlet: 0,014 I started the engine, heating it up in idle to 160 degrees water temp I re-adjusted the valves again to inlet and outlet both to 0,01 inch in hot and running condition (I was only able to do it on cylinders 1,2,3 while running the engine, the others I did just after stopping the engine. Accessability was absolutely catastrophic and I got the same skin troubles as many of you....) I realized that I had to reduce the gap a lot on both valve types, inlet and outlet to get to 0,01 in hot condition Then I stopped working on the engine and let it cool down through 8 hours until I could feel no heat any more Then I measured the valve gap again on all valves in that cold condition, Result was 0,01 on inlet and 0,012 on outlet (so only the outlet showed more gap after cooling down) Then, maintening this adjustment, I gave all outlet valves a little bit of more gap so that the feeler gage passed easily without any bigger resistance with 0,12 (outlet only), 0,14 wouldnt pass. I kept the Inlet valves as adjusted in hot conditions. I would like to get your opinions on the following, because I dont have a lot of experience with that engine: I observed that between cold and hot condition inlet valves shows nearly 0 gap difference, meanwhile the outlet shows 0,005 difference. Does anybody of you experienced the same? adjusting the valves in running and hot conditions is something for the heroes, after several wounds I decided not to be one of them. In addition, I noticed that for me! a precise adjustment with running and hot engine is not really possible because you cant feel the resistance of the gage while passing the gap. So my conclusion is, having the previous measurement as listet above in mind, that a cold adjustment with inlet 0,01 and outlet 0,012 should exactly meet the requirements of the TM in hot conditions. What do you think? And please forgive me my German English... Thanks in advance and best regards
  19. Thanks all I think I have to check the blow by first. I don’t have leaks but a broken ring cannot be excluded best Regards
  20. Thanks! I continue in English. (Althought your German is perfect!) I like him too. I was driving for 15 years Landrover defender, fixing everything by myself. But at least I wanted something more simple and authentic. And the originals for all Jeeps are the Willys and the Dodge WC. But to drive it, this is hard work. If you are not used to drive this monster you are really done after some hours. It takes a lot of concentration to stay on your lane, its really noisy and slow. The gear, or better crash box, makes your live difficult in modern traffic. Also the maitenance and fixing of damages is totally different to todays, or even earlier, cars of the 60s. Nothing works in a first attempt. This technology seems simple, but to get a waterpump tight, for example, is much more difficult than in a normal car. Whatever the engineers in the 40ties designed, its sometimes not plug and play like today. The Eigenfrequency of the ladder frame is at around 40 mph. If the wheels are not perfectly aligned, the whole front part of the car starts to vibrate around the longitudinal axis. Driving faster is dangerous because the frame is getting into resonance. And so on and so on. Well, thats what I wanted. Some technical problems to keep my brain working. My latest problem is that the engine is waisting 1 Liter of engine oil every 300 kms. Thats too much. I am using 20W50 mineral oil with low additive content. A friend of mine tells me I should change to the initial SAE 30 oil, as stated in the manual. But would this be the reason of the oil consumption? Anybody having experienced a difference in oil consumption between 20W50 or SAE 30? Thanks in advance and best regards
  21. Its a pure petrol engine with Zenith Carb. Chrysler Flat 6 T214 with 230 cinch. The ropes and camouflage as well as all the other stuff such as tent, coleman articles etc.. is very util for camping and BBQ. The Car is perfect for such events? AWD and enough space
  22. To prevent any wrong assumption. No weapons, absolutely pacific and having fun, only interested in these simple and robust vintage vehicles, and their history of course.
  23. Hi everybody just signed up some weeks ago. But in the pilothouse. So I guess I am right now in the truck forum. To present my "permanent" project. Bought it in 2017 in a restored status, but 10 years without moving. Which caused me huge troubles with anything touching liquids. Carburetor, brakes, any seals. In my very first trip I tried to brake going 8% downhill and there was no resistance on the brake pedal☹️. Had some luck and could brake the 2,5 tons with the handbrake. Later I saw that all 4 calipers were leaking. Today, after fixing all troubles with brakes, making inventions to get the new waterpump tight etc, it runs quit well and I am participating here in the local events with WW2 american army vehicles. Some Photos:
  24. Sorry gents I think I am wrong here. Should have presented myself in the Mopar truck forum. Is someone of the mods able to shift this or to delete it? Thanks in advance and best regards
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