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About Spencer1

  • Rank
  • Birthday 12/28/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany, Aachen
  • Interests
    Oldtimer, Riding
  • My Project Cars
    Dodge WC 51

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born on 28th of December 1962, working in an enginnering company for Automotive Industry
  • Occupation
    Management Automotive engineering


  • Location
    Germany, Aachen
  • Interests
  1. Hi there Hope somebody can help me. I am still struggling with high oil consumption on my 43 Dodge WC truck. The engine needs a quart on 300 km but: without leakages. I cant detect blue smoke while driving. Only with high Rpm something is visble Opening the oil filler cap during Idle, no smoke is visible, neither high pressure. All spark plugs are showing black carbon like black powder No loss of power is detectable History of the engine is unknown Car has done 1000 km after restoration and then been left alone for 10 years without moving in a dry garage because the owner had some health troubles and couldnt drive anymore So, before disassembling the engine, I assume that the oil rings are stucked due to the 10 years stillstand. Anybody here who has some experience with stucked oil rings, using Marvel Mistery oil or something like this? Cheers, Mike
  2. Dear Gentlemen, fellows My Dodge WC 3/4 ton from 43 is equipped with an original Flat 6 with 230 cubic inch, Type T-214. 93 SAE at 3200 Rpm, 6,7:1 compression, Carburetor Zenith, 6 Volt equipment. Normal valve adjustment following the technical manual from us army: inlet and outlet 0,010 inch go and 0,012 inch nogo in hot conditions. Original text: "Run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. Hold the tappet with wrench and adjust the screw until a 0,010 inch feeler gage will not (I think this "not" is a typo in the original manual) go between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a 0,012 ich feeler gage will not go between the adjsuting screw and valve stem on both intake and exhaust valves" On the weekend I adjusted my engine valves as described in the TM and the Technical Tips (very useful, many thanks!) in this forum I pre-adjusted in cold with still standing engine Inlet: 0,012 and outlet: 0,014 I started the engine, heating it up in idle to 160 degrees water temp I re-adjusted the valves again to inlet and outlet both to 0,01 inch in hot and running condition (I was only able to do it on cylinders 1,2,3 while running the engine, the others I did just after stopping the engine. Accessability was absolutely catastrophic and I got the same skin troubles as many of you....) I realized that I had to reduce the gap a lot on both valve types, inlet and outlet to get to 0,01 in hot condition Then I stopped working on the engine and let it cool down through 8 hours until I could feel no heat any more Then I measured the valve gap again on all valves in that cold condition, Result was 0,01 on inlet and 0,012 on outlet (so only the outlet showed more gap after cooling down) Then, maintening this adjustment, I gave all outlet valves a little bit of more gap so that the feeler gage passed easily without any bigger resistance with 0,12 (outlet only), 0,14 wouldnt pass. I kept the Inlet valves as adjusted in hot conditions. I would like to get your opinions on the following, because I dont have a lot of experience with that engine: I observed that between cold and hot condition inlet valves shows nearly 0 gap difference, meanwhile the outlet shows 0,005 difference. Does anybody of you experienced the same? adjusting the valves in running and hot conditions is something for the heroes, after several wounds I decided not to be one of them. In addition, I noticed that for me! a precise adjustment with running and hot engine is not really possible because you cant feel the resistance of the gage while passing the gap. So my conclusion is, having the previous measurement as listet above in mind, that a cold adjustment with inlet 0,01 and outlet 0,012 should exactly meet the requirements of the TM in hot conditions. What do you think? And please forgive me my German English... Thanks in advance and best regards
  3. Thanks all I think I have to check the blow by first. I don’t have leaks but a broken ring cannot be excluded best Regards
  4. Thanks! I continue in English. (Althought your German is perfect!) I like him too. I was driving for 15 years Landrover defender, fixing everything by myself. But at least I wanted something more simple and authentic. And the originals for all Jeeps are the Willys and the Dodge WC. But to drive it, this is hard work. If you are not used to drive this monster you are really done after some hours. It takes a lot of concentration to stay on your lane, its really noisy and slow. The gear, or better crash box, makes your live difficult in modern traffic. Also the maitenance and fixing of damages is totally different to todays, or even earlier, cars of the 60s. Nothing works in a first attempt. This technology seems simple, but to get a waterpump tight, for example, is much more difficult than in a normal car. Whatever the engineers in the 40ties designed, its sometimes not plug and play like today. The Eigenfrequency of the ladder frame is at around 40 mph. If the wheels are not perfectly aligned, the whole front part of the car starts to vibrate around the longitudinal axis. Driving faster is dangerous because the frame is getting into resonance. And so on and so on. Well, thats what I wanted. Some technical problems to keep my brain working. My latest problem is that the engine is waisting 1 Liter of engine oil every 300 kms. Thats too much. I am using 20W50 mineral oil with low additive content. A friend of mine tells me I should change to the initial SAE 30 oil, as stated in the manual. But would this be the reason of the oil consumption? Anybody having experienced a difference in oil consumption between 20W50 or SAE 30? Thanks in advance and best regards
  5. Its a pure petrol engine with Zenith Carb. Chrysler Flat 6 T214 with 230 cinch. The ropes and camouflage as well as all the other stuff such as tent, coleman articles etc.. is very util for camping and BBQ. The Car is perfect for such events😁 AWD and enough space
  6. To prevent any wrong assumption. No weapons, absolutely pacific and having fun, only interested in these simple and robust vintage vehicles, and their history of course.
  7. Hi everybody just signed up some weeks ago. But in the pilothouse. So I guess I am right now in the truck forum. To present my "permanent" project. Bought it in 2017 in a restored status, but 10 years without moving. Which caused me huge troubles with anything touching liquids. Carburetor, brakes, any seals. In my very first trip I tried to brake going 8% downhill and there was no resistance on the brake pedal☹️. Had some luck and could brake the 2,5 tons with the handbrake. Later I saw that all 4 calipers were leaking. Today, after fixing all troubles with brakes, making inventions to get the new waterpump tight etc, it runs quit well and I am participating here in the local events with WW2 american army vehicles. Some Photos:
  8. Sorry gents I think I am wrong here. Should have presented myself in the Mopar truck forum. Is someone of the mods able to shift this or to delete it? Thanks in advance and best regards
  9. Hello everyone I am new to this forum. I am living in Aachen, Germany. 2 years ago I purchased a Dodge Wc51 because I like to work on vintage cars. After 15 years working on my Landrover Defenders, I looked for a new challenge. But it should be a 4X4 Jeep. The Dodge WC was always causing my attention due to its nice shape and the simplicity of its construction was a strong contrast to the Landrovers. So I bought one from the Belgian Military Vehicle Club here nearby. The are all driving US Army cars or tanks from WW2 due to the close battle of the bulge and the Hurtgen Forest which is just 2 miles from here. The US Army left most of the material here, which is now often being restored. But in Germany there are not a lot of experts on these vehicles. So hopefully I can find some help here from time to time. Or maybe I am able to contribute. Best regards
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