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Bbdakota

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Everything posted by Bbdakota

  1. Who's to say the second machine shop is right? These things don't have to be perfect, they will run way out of spec. I'm just thinking if the first machine shop thought it was good enough, it could be. The second machine shop could be making things sound worse so they can make some money off of the deal
  2. A properly operating Vacuum advance will result in less heat being generated by the engine under light load cruising. I used a vacuum advance from a later model Chrysler and cut the arm off, made a new arm for the flat head distributor and tacked it to the newer vacuum advance. I used vice grips as a heat sink. I only done this because I couldn't find a replacement vacuum advance in time for a event I wanted to attend but it worked fine. I did check how far the vacuum advance advanced the timing and was happy with the results. Sorry, no pictures.
  3. I've seen a couple painted. I've heard painting aluminum reduces its ability to dissipate heat but I'm willing to bet it's not even measurable unless one puts 2mm thickness of paint on one. I bet a rattle can paint job wouldn't effect heat dispassion enough to matter. One would need to scuff up the aluminum tanks to give the paint something to bite onto.
  4. On a couple cars I've had now where a direct replacement aluminum radiator was not available, I'd buy an aluminum radiator by the size and inlet/outlet placement then add brackets or modify as needed. Most might not have a high frequency TIG setup but you might have friends who do. I also don't care that it's aluminum vs original buy I understand why some would want to keep the original look. On my 48 dodge d24, I made the system pressurized and added a moonshine jug as a overflow tank effectively raising the boiling point as an extra measure of caution.
  5. Jee! You've got a 58 Plymouth convertible! With bumper wings! WOW! What a car!
  6. Nothing beats live music and old cars! Sounds like somebody put on an awesome event! Congrats on the people's choice!
  7. I could be wrong but I'm betting you will st least the rear abs sensors and the frequency will need to match what the factory sensors and tone ring are looking for. The computers communicate with each other on a CAN bus and use these wheel speed sensors for everything like traction control, stability control, when and how aggressive to shift the transmission, electronic speedometer, etc. I'm fighting a few issues now with shifting on my car I'm building but I'm using a NAG1/5.7 hemi.
  8. Glad you made it back! There's a few spare parts (not many) I carry with me in my trunk. Cap, rotor, points and belts along with enough tools to change them. Mainly because I know I can't get the ignition parts at most local parts stores. To condense space, I put the rotor and points inside the cap box. While ordering your parts, might think about ordering a spare set.
  9. I'm very interested in watching this thread..... cause I've thought if swapping the 3.6 and 8 speed myself. One thing I've run into with Chrysler products is the wheel speed sensors are monitored by the computers and on the NAG1, are used for shifting. I'm not sure about the 8 speed but I'd lay money on the fact you'll need to provide rear speed signals for the computer to allow proper shifts of the transmission. Something to keep in mind..... you may be able to put a tone ring on the driveshaft and mount the wheel speed sensors to read the tone ring.
  10. I put a under dash vintage air in my 56 dodge. I'm happy with it. It would be better if the car was insulated better, especially the fire wall and if the weather strip sealed better but it keeps it comfortable in the car
  11. This is exactly how I justify the money I spend on old cars! It's not a waste if I'm learning and get enjoyment from what I'm doing! Great job on the engine! Always a smile you can't hide when one fires for the first time after you've "brought it back from the dead"
  12. I studied electronic technology on a 8088 processor.
  13. That's got to feel good! Awesome!
  14. In my opinion, yes! The fuel got hot enough to vaporize. I've had the same experience as you with both my older cars when they get heat soaked then sit idling in traffic. I keep my mechanical pump and installed an electric pump (in line on one car and used a "Y" and check valve on the other car) as a means to overcome vapor lock. I have a switch I turn on the electric pump only when needed. It works. I've since learned of a fuel filter with 1 inlet and 2 outlets designed to circulate fresh cool fuel continuously. This looks like a more bulletproof method but does require a way to return fuel to the tank do it's a bit more work. So far, my electric pumps do the trick and I have 2 options for delivering fuel in case of a fuel delivery failure due to one or the other pumps..... I can get home.
  15. Wow! It's been a while since I gave an update. The ac leaked down so I had a local shop re-crimp the lines I made and replaced the dryer, so far so good. The ignition skip was solved by installing a cd ignition box and only using the points ad a trigger. I used blade connectors so I can switch it back to points in minutes....and that proved to be a good move one night when the condenser caused the ignition box to quit working. Otherwise, the car has been great! I'm back working on my 58 Plymouth. The transmission is going into limp mode when it tries to go into 3rd gear, fluid smells and looks bad so I found another transmission. Going to try it this weekend. Getting close to time to hand it to a painter.
  16. Looking great! I bet your ready to see a return on your investment of time and money. I assume you're still running the hydraulic brake switch. I have had better luck installing a modern type brake switch and eliminating the hydraulic brake switch on a couple cars. You might have to make a bracket and run the wires through the firewall. Just something to keep in mind if not now, maybe later if you continue to have problems with hydraulic brake switch failures.
  17. The increase in cu. In. By it self should have a small hp gain but it would be so small you wouldn't feel it in the seat of the pants. You are probably close but it wouldn't be a 1:1 or a linear scale. As Chrysler 1941 stated, there will be a compression ratio change but to confirm the CR change, you'd also need to figure in the difference in head gaskets from the old gasket to the new and if the head was milled, even enough to clean it up. Then you'd need to figure in the new piston compression height if it's different from the old pistons.
  18. I'd suspect a vaccum leak based on your description of symptoms but it also could be other things. Could be a intake manifold gasket if it's a vacuum leak, like sniper stated, could be the tune.... If your fuel pump was putting out enough pressure to leak past the needle and seat, it would flood out and not idle so I doubt that's your problem.
  19. You're not running the plug wires in the wrong rotation on the cap, are you? I believe it's clockwise for these flathead 6s. I'm only guessing at things that might cause what you are describing.
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