'41 Fat Bottom Girl

Yup, and a lot of the late 60's and 70's boats used to "float" pretty good! I remember my dad observing (I think it was some GM cars that had coils in the back?) how some would bounce around and sway. Thanx for the input on the leaf springs, all. Going to relax them, drown them in penetrating oil and disconnect the shocks before doing some serious rear end bouncing. Make the old girl do some serious hip-hop before dousing the leaves again and hooking the shocks back up. Sure, can't hurt. Been running 32 psi all four feet and will try reducing tire pressure a bit too. Not a huge issue, just looking for a bit of improvement. Trust in Rust!

Now that I have the front suspension rebuilt and things are smooooth and tight up front, I am wondering about the rear. The ride has always seemed a bit stiff with the rear suspension. Too solid. If such a thing is available, I'd like to try softer shocks in the rear. She could use a little bounce. Am I looking at air shocks? Thoughts? Thanx!

Congrats! Job well done. Had a delay getting mine back together- I hope to enjoy that better ride next week! Thanx for letting us know how it all turned out. Good to know.

I have sleeve bushings both ends, so I don't know how things work with a needle bearing on top. But for what it's worth, here is what I have done so far: The bushings have to be pulled in from the bottom, not installed from the top. I got a big bolt and washers and nut and pulled them into place. I just cleaned up the bores (really well!) with some emery cloth and lubed them with grease before installing the bushings. A couple big wrenches and they pulled in OK. I just made very sure they were flush so there is no interference with shims etc. later (photos). A finished assembly is on the left showing the flush installation. I ordered my adjustable reamer and will ream the bushing I.D.s to fit the new Kingpins. I have about .004" to remove on the bushings to get a slip fit with the Kingpins. I am curious about the needle bearing you are working with on top- is its bore diameter a different diameter than that for your lower sleeve bushing? I was wondering if it was larger on top. I don't know anything about those, I have just done sleeves in my past. Good Luck

I agree, thanx Andyd, it is indeed SOP. If the Kingpins were same dia. as stock, I could have used my old in-line reamer from my old kit. This go-around I am going to get a new adjustable reamer so I can size the bushing bore to the new pin diameters. I'm not going to worry about the pin hardness, it will be working against the bronze bushing. The new Kingpins are round, T.I.R. is less than .ooo5" so roundness is fine. Torpedo, I wouldn't do anything to the spindle. My aftermarket split bushings pulled in ok, and it took a bit of pressure to install them. The new adjustable reamer should work fine to size them to the new Kingpins. Now that I am this far into it, I think everything is going to be ok using the replacement kit. Hang in there!

Looking at the kit parts from AB now and seeing more differences. The old Kingpins mic at .793 O.D. The new pins mic at .799 O.D. The original Kingpins are hardened, ground steel and the replacement parts are untreated steel, but looked better once I hit it with fine emery cloth, but certainly not ground or as smooth a finish. My old kingpins aren't useable as they have scoring, and I haven't been able to locate an NOS kit. Looking at the dimensions I have with the pin and bushings there is no question that I will have to ream the bushings by .003" to .004" so I may have to get an adjustable reamer so I can control the bore cut. With some care, I think I can make it work. (Reamer-$100- Grrr.) (I did see on my old kingpins that the top bushing area showed wear whereas the bottoms looked good. I suppose on some cars that's why they used needle bearings instead of a top sleeve bushing, longer wear. On my year Mopars, the 7-passenger car had needle bearing on top, all others bushed.) Good Luck!

Hi, Here is my kingpin kit: Kingpins, bushings, thrust bearings and shims, and new pins. So, all sleeve bushings. No needles.

Plymouthy, A bicycle crank- yes! that's where I have seen that wedge pin before! That did not come to mind. If I recall, the wedge cut on a bike crank pin is a bit more pronounced than on this Kingpin pin. Now I can put that question in my mind to rest. Thanx!

I was able to get the kingpin out by driving it from the top with a drift. It took a bit of positioning in my big vice so it was supported by the mid-section, but after I got that held solid, repeated whack with a hammer broke it free. The next challenge was getting the old bronze bushings out. I may have to have help pressing new ones in; it's an awkward part for my small press to work easily. But to get things apart for cleanup, I used this old trick-carefully did a hacksaw blade cut along the inside of a bushing and through the bushing wall thickness, taking care not to score the casting. and then using a very small cold chisel to collapse it- and out they go. Waiting for my Kingpin kit, then will find out more about pressing in the new bushings. Good Luck

Thanx, fellas- You were right on about driving the pin from opposite the staked side- came apart nicely. Interesting- my original diameter caliper on both ends of the pin suggesting it was not a tapered drive pin ended up being correct. Getting it out, the pin mics the same diameter both ends- the locking taper is provided by a wedge cut along the side of the pin. That's why what appears to be a constant diameter pin but with only one end staked. Ingenious, really- I'd bet putting a wedge cut on the pin side is less cost than a taper pin and avoids the big challenge- or impossibility- of providing tapered hole bores to accept it. Provides a tight lock on the Kingpin with easy dimensional control of the diameters. Nice!

Thanx, buddy. Not a good idea to be beating on the wrong end of a taper pin. My D series Shop Manual just instructed me to "Remove the pin". I am really glad I asked. Best

I just saw your posts... after I just wrote one about how the heck do you remove the kingpin retaining Pins? Sure would appreciate it if you would find that one and give me your advice. Thanx, Bruce

This little journey on my front end rebuild brings a couple questions to mind. Before I start to try removing the retaining Pin for the Kingpin: Curious, the front side looks staked, and both front and backside of the pins top surfaces aren't smooth, as I'd expect with a typical pin end. Almost look peened (?) Photos. I checked (the best I could) the pin diameter with calipers, both sides to see if it might be a taper drive pin, but diameters appear to be the same. I thought I'd best consult with the experts before I went at it blindly and did damage. And- Use a press, or dislodge it with a punch and hammer? Thanx Much.

Thanx. Luckily, the rear leaf springs are in great condition, I had them load-checked for equal deflection when I rebuilt the rear end in 2007. Even the outer metal leaf covers were good. New bushings and shackles at the time, so the rears are ok. Sat for 14 years before I got back to it, and only 3,000 miles since on that rear rebuild. Will swap the coils and see the results.

Replying late, just got back on the site and saw your post. Having had a couple knee replacements I have an idea what you are going through. Hopefully by now the pain is manageable and PT is going well for you. Getting that range of motion back can be tough and a lot of work. Hang in there, and Best Wishes for a complete and speedy recovery. You have been a partner to all of us in keeping our rust on the road, and you are very respected. Thank You!!! Bruce

Silencers-I am installing new top and bottom coil spring silencers while I am rebuilding the control arms. Other than getting the orientation right (ground flat is top of the coil, I will replace coils in same rotational position in the control arms as when removed) are there any other considerations when putting it back together? Coils- Before this, the driver's side always sagged about 1/2 inch below shotgun side at the front fenders. I could lift the fender slightly and the car would level out. The spacer was installed on the top of the driver's side coil spring properly, so that part is there. Taking the coils out, they both are the same free length. I don't think the spring rate would change much, but maybe it could? So, I am thinking of putting the previous driver side spring on the shotgun side, and vice-versa, still keeping the driver's side extra spacer in place as is usual. Even if the car then sat slightly higher at rest on the driver's side, it would even out with a driver in it (?). The previous silencers were cracked and broken, but still there for the most part. That could make a difference I suppose if one side was gone. I guess it isn't that tough to add another shim later, if necessary, when all settles out. Just wondered if it might be worth a try swapping the coils. Waddya Think? Regards to All, Bruce

Those are beautiful! Those photos are a convincing argument that chrome is the way to go. After I finish my final front suspension work, I have look into it. My original dull non-plated parts look like good candidates for plating! Now I think I will have to see what it costs. My fault, I asked the question! Here is a photo of another original '41 D19 dash, you can see the dull pewter- looking finish but chromed horn button. Thanx for your pix, good motivation. Wishing all a safe and healthy New Year.

My horn button is the only chrome plated die casting. It has some minor pitting but shines up nicely. On my glove compartment cover, I took some rubbing compound and then metal polish with a buffing pad. Started with light pressure and then increased- I worked it for a couple minutes with very little improvement in lustre. Whatever the cast material is, it can't be shined up. To me, not worth plating. So, I am fine with what I have. Thanx all.

Thanx. It's interesting that these pieces don't have chrome. Present surface looks like a pewter teapot in color. Dull. Do you suppose it might be Zinc? Whatever it is, I would think it would be a lot shinier in its early years. Being that the car was manufactured in June 1941, it was pre-war. Maybe autos still using zinc at that point? I had heard that during the war, other materials were substituted as you mention. Maybe I'll do a small area on the back side of the glove cover to see what results. There I can always hide a goof. And Scotchbrite.. good suggestion. That always helps in the process.

Before I tackle trying to clean up the parts more than with just a regular metal polish (not much lustre resulting) I'd like to know what the die cast metal is- it seems like a pewter or pot metal of some sort. Anyone know? It would be good to know if heavy polishing and buffing wheels would be ok. BTW- Hope you all had a good Christmas and the folks in the storms get home safely. Best Wishes to all.

All of my elastomeric fuel lines have been replaced with today's materials- at tank, at fuel pump-so I am probably ok there. Recent fuel pump with new bowl gasket, so ok there. I think. No old rubber. Fuel conditioning-wise, I add a can of Seafoam additive with every tank fill. If our illustrious government (?) does up the allowable ethanol content to 20%, is there any other recommendation to add to the gas for my flathead?

Thanx- great info! Merry Christmas to all.

I will look- Haven't torn it down yet, just had seen in the Andy B catalog that it called out bushings and seals and pins. Poked some rubber at the bottom control arms, but maybe those are just sealing boots. Maybe the bushings are oilites or sleeves? I have only done 50's Chevys in the past and my 'Vettes, haven't had the '41 front suspension apart and didn't on my earlier '39 Olds coupe either. Anyhoo, I will do a teardown and look. I need to find out if I need new pins also. Probably so. Good info. Thanx for the insight! Merry Christmas

Many replacement bushings are made of a much harder durometer thermoplastic material compared to the original rubbers used. Remembering the TP material rear motor mounts I had bought, after finding out how hard they were, I scoured around and found some NOS mounts. Despite those being (probably) of a natural rubber compound, those rubber NOS parts weren't degraded over their storage time- and much better for vibration damping than the hard replacements. For mounts, a big difference. Now I am going to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings soon. Question: For that application, is finding NOS rubber bushings better than using the hard durometer TP replacements? Or is TP better for the A frame bushings? Thanx much, Merry Christmas all!

For what it's worth: My lighting used to be scary at night also, and not significantly better even after I had rewired the entire car (had some corroded wire crimps at some connectors and old cracking wire insulation)- with all new proper gauge wiring, and new light switch and NOS dimmer switch with no resistances there. I had even taken the plugs to the headlights apart, cleaned the contacts and crimped and soldered new wires to those. I had then applied a little dialectric grease to prevent future oxidation, which a wise man taught me to do on all my auto connectors many years ago. In my case, measuring ohms from the light cans to the body showed showed no resistance there, so that path looked fine. I found that the problem with my 6 volt headlights was indeed grounds. Comparing the brightness of one of the headlights installed in the car to the other headlight that I removed and directly wired to the battery was a perfect troubleshooting comparison. Didn't have to ohm it out, the difference was noticeable right away. I already had the cable from the battery to the engine block of course, but adding that extra grounding cable from the block to the body made the difference. Success! Even the tail lights brightened up nicely. Very happy with it. I still peer down the road a bit with my 72 year old eyes, but I drive a lot more comfortably at night now. Good luck and happy motoring!