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Francois Pelletier

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Everything posted by Francois Pelletier

  1. I have a 1999 Mustang 8.8 axle with asociated disc brakes in my 1940 Dodge sedan. Width was about 1/2 inch more than original and bolt pattern match.
  2. Looking at the cylinder head in the opening post, the bore spacing is not like on a flathead. This must have been much more than a head swap.
  3. I have converted my 1940 sedan to 4 wheel disc and could not be happier. I have 2000 Ford Explorer front discs and matching calipers on the front and the whole axle and brakes from a 1999 Mustang in the back. It works fine with the original master cylinder with a nice firm pedal feel. No shaking or pulling on one side or anything, The original brakes were made for empty gravel roads. I don't think you can safely drive in today's traffic with them.
  4. Hi guys, I have installes a R10 overdrive transmission on my 12v converted 1940 Dodge sedan. The transmission came with a 6 volts solenoid. I decided I would not use any of the auto actuation system and use a simple switch and relay. You can't just put a resistor in series because it actually is a dual coil with a much stronger one pushing the pin in and then a lighter one holding it in. But you can seperate the 2 coils and feed them separately. The big one through a 0.3 ohm resistor and the small one a 3.0 ohm one. The wires a easy to access and split. There is a ground switch tab wich is not used when going for manual actuation that can be used for the small coil wire. I have about a 1000 miles done with it and love it !! Only problem is that I used a small wattage resistor for the big coil and when the swtch is left on while the overdrive cannot engage, it overheats and smell... It could easily be corrected with a higher wattage resistor. Pictures of the modification to the solenoid, required resistors and actuation switch wich is a motorcycle flasher switch. :
  5. Hi guys, Probably not to everyone's tastes but... I wanted working instruments in my 1940 sedan. I already had a GPS speedo that project a digital speed indication on the inside of the windshield and even if it was installed as a wild guess experiment turned out very good. None of the other instruments worked... So I made a paper template and came up with this using mechanical oil pressure and temp gages. The radio is in the glovebox but on a hinge so can be opened up to gain acces of remaining space. It also has a back up camera feed. The speakers are in the middle of the dash and under the rear seat. I'm bracing for the comments... Frank.
  6. Hi Guys, Very interesting reading !!! I have the same problem but going in a slightly different direction to fix it. I will use the last high performance carbs made before everything went efi... the superbike CVs. Having done it on several motors already such a single instead of crappy single Zenith on MGB, 4 instead of crappy mechnical injection on Alfa Romeo 2000, 4 instead of single crappy Zenith on MG Midget, 3 instead of 3 crappy Delorto on Laverda 1200, all with very very good results, I am quite confident it will work on the flathead too. My particular setup is a 265 with 238deg at .050 cam, .050 milled head, dual cast Langhorn exhaust and tripe AOK intake. Right now I have triple B&B but foun them to be impossible to tune properly. They have a 2 stage jetting wich start too rich and goes leaner as rpm and load increase until the second stage kicks in and does it again. Using a wideband o2 sensor I was able to remove the lean flat spots but it is way too rich in some situations. Maybe back when the same motor used a single one of them the progression was ok but when you install 3, it is hopeless !! So it will get 3 Keihin CVK42 downdraft from a 97-98 Honda CBR1100. Of course jetting will have to be adjusted but it should not be that complicated. I will be following with interest your FI endeavors and will tell you how it goes with CV carbs as soon as I can finish this. Francois
  7. As the title says, Canadian 218 25 inch block, crank, rods, pistons. free to anyone here who needs it. The bores are very rusty and will need a substantial rebore or resleeve to put right but the block is not cracked. It was still full of coolant after being stoped for about 10 years. I can deliver in the Montreal area for free also.
  8. Video of me and a friend removing the 218, don't know if the link will work... https://www.facebook.com/marieandreanne/videos/10155941767786710/?t=0
  9. Hi guys, Lots to say... The car was nowhere as near to running as it was supposed to be... The motor was seized and when broken free the cylinders were very badly pitted. The motor wich was not original to the car was the smallest of the 25.5 bloc, a 4 1/16 stroke 218 so i did not feel like it was worth my time to rebuild. I found an industrial 265 out of a portable water pump to replace it. That motor turned out to be in GREAT shape with everyting perfect exept for a borderline timing chain. So I will be using it but... I cant leave well enough alone... So I will be putting a triple carb intake, dual exhaust, HEI ignition, more compression and reground cam I am VERY lucky to have a local shop with lots of NOS parts where I found a new timing chain and 10 inch clutch disc and pressure plate that bolt directly on my 218 flywheel ( wich I will lighten ). So now I have a few parts out for powder coat and still waiting for the cam but should be reassembling very soon More to follow.
  10. I have a 1940 canadian Dodge and it looks very similar, will posta pic soon.
  11. The snow has finally melted and I got my proverbial "Barn Find" outside and towed to my place I have now bought a new battery and will know very soon if it still runs For some reason I can't ad any picture to this, I always get a message that says I am allowed 3 meg and I'm trying to post 700k pics so who knows...
  12. Thanks, I was on the phone with Tim Kingsbury earlier and he says it's definitely not a factory stamping. The car is not yet in my garage, we are waiting for a snow bank to melt ... As soon as it's at may place, I will do the stroke and block dating checks. To be continued ...
  13. Hi guys, Yes I have tried the search... My new to me 1940 Canadian D16 sedan has an enginr no. wich I can't find info on. It is stamped L13730C On the normal spot below the head gasket. Anybody can tell me what it came from ? Thanks in advance Francois
  14. Thank you guys I cant wait to start working on this project !
  15. What I forgot to say is that they are still used in the O-200 and maybe other models of Continental still sold today so still availlable ! At an otherworldly aircraft parts price for sure but availlabe.
  16. Those lifters look remarkably similar to Continental aircraft motor lifters !!
  17. Hi guys, I just bought my first vintage Dodge and evertthing I googled brought me here so I am now a member What I found is a 1940 D16 The data plate read as such: Model D16SPEC4DSED Body No 719 Paint Code !559 Trim Code A MO It is in relatively good shape and seems mostly original excep for the color wich is now dark red. But it has not been run in 4-5 years so it will need some fixing before driving. I have read here that the canadian dodge is different in many ways to the US one, how do I find parts ? Is there some sort of interchange list between Canadian and US cars parts ? The plan is not to do a rivet counters restoration but to drive the thing as much as possible ! Francois
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