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Ward Duffield

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About Ward Duffield

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    46 P-15 convertible 52 yrs in a MD barn

Converted

  • Location
    NY
  • Interests
    Mopars with Flatheads

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  1. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    I searched quite a few manuals and online and never did find any photos of a stock installation; I assumed the air being expelled from the vacuum pump should go into the intake. In any event, I have disconnected that line and it is quiet so we shall see. I did also find photos of what I believe to be a cylindrical metal check valve or a muffler (??) in the rubber line to the firewall, but no one seems to know what they are or where to get one. In these cases the vacuum source was the intake manifold, and the cars were apparently convertibles, as I have. Photos attached. Since my system seems to work without this part, it is on the back burner. Thanks again for all replies! Ward
  2. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    Hi DJ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. When I removed the steel line from the intake manifold, the noise just about disappeared. Also, with it hooked up, there seems to be almost no vacuum at the carburetor port which attaches to the distributor advance unit ??? Ward
  3. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    Yes, because the vacuum port on the carb is sourced above the throttle plate but it did seem weak. Thanks Ward
  4. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    Hi DJ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. When I removed the steel line from the intake manifold, the noise just about disappeared. Also, with it hooked up, there seems to be almost no vacuum at the carburetor port which attaches to the distributor advance unit ??? Ward
  5. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    Hi DJ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. When I removed the steel line from the intake manifold, the noise just about disappeared. Also, with it hooked up, there seems to be almost no vacuum at the carburetor port which attaches to the distributor advance unit ??? Ward
  6. Ward Duffield

    Vacuum Booster fuel pump NOISE

    Hi Group I just installed a freshly rebuilt, NOS AC booster fuel pump on my rebuilt 218. It is making good vacuum and the fuel flow is good. The car's rubber vacuum line, which runs thru the firewall, is connected to a a hard line to the "IN" port of the vacuum pump. There is another hard line from the pump's "OUT" port to the intake manifold port below the carburetor flange. The car runs well, BUT the pump is as loud as HELL; it sounds like a bad rod, and I wonder if anyone else has experienced this. You can feel the rapping thru the suction line when the engine is running. Thanks! Ward Duffield 1946 P-15 Pine Plains, NY
  7. Ward Duffield

    The Rough Field Spotters Guide for Mopar Overdrives

    Thanks for the quick response and photos. I did order the harness from AoK. Ward
  8. Ward Duffield

    The Rough Field Spotters Guide for Mopar Overdrives

    Well, I am putting an r10g1 overdrive in my 1946 P-15- Does anyone have photos of the control cable installation? I don't know where it goes under the dash, through the firewall, etc. Thanks Ward
  9. Ward Duffield

    Overdrive CABLE in P-15

    Hi Group Happy New Year! Can anyone provide suggestions for the best way to add an Overdrive lockout cable to my stock 1946 Plymouth? Thanks for advice or photos Ward Duffield Chilly Pine Plains, NY
  10. Ward Duffield

    Overdrive indicator lights

    Hello Jim I am beginning the process of installing an overdrive in my stock 1946 Plymouth. Can you recall the P/N of the VW relay you describe to allow the use of the Shift-Rite knob? Thanks Ward Duffield
  11. Ward Duffield

    P15 / P14 Folding Top Operation

    Well, there is a tube from the intake manifold to the vacuum pump, then a tube from the vacuum pump to the convertible top dashboard control valve. I have seen photos where there appears to be a cylindrical check valve or something in that tube leading to the valve, but installed ahead of the firewall. I was wondering what that cylindrical part is and was hoping that a ragtop owner still had one installed. Then Iam unsure which outlet on the valve goes where, but I can figure that out. Thanks Ward
  12. Ward Duffield

    strange starter problem

    I was just thinking that perhaps the rebuilders incorrectly assumed there was a certain number of teeth on the ring gear and installed the appropriate Bendix for that number, in error. The starter shaft is just like new, the starter spins freely. After the first failed attempt after rebuilding, I removed it and cleaned off the large amount of sticky red grease they had applied, and relubed with dri-slide the Bendix travels up and down the shaft easily. I recall once seeing a chart with ring and pinion tooth numbers listed, but it was years ago. I did not count the teeth on the old drive, which had been OK; the new drive has nine teeth. This is the original, MZ-4133 starter, MoPar 1113119. I put a test light on the solenoid output and it goes out when the button is released. I removed the starter tonight and the ring gear looks good, no dirt or rust evident.. The engine was detailed before installation and covered, indoors during the body work. but wirebrushing the ring gear is my next step.
  13. Ward Duffield

    strange starter problem

    I'm not sure if I made it clear that this engine was driven many times after rebuilding, with this starter, and all was normal.
  14. Ward Duffield

    strange starter problem

    OK, I will try a remote switch next, Thank you . Ward
  15. Ward Duffield

    strange starter problem

    Hi Group I have finally progressed on my P-15 reassembly project to the point where it is time to start the engine. It was fully rebuilt and balanced before I bought the car, but has not run in three years while getting the body back into shape. When I started the car, the Bendix did not kick out of the ring gear. The car always started fine before the layup, no issues, ever. I drove it several times prior to disassembly. As far as I know, this is the starter that was installed on the car at the factory. The car had been stored over 50 years and was bone stock when found. I replaced the battery, which was getting pretty old, tried a new solenoid in case the old one somehow was staying closed after releasing the pushbutton, and even had the starter rebuilt, including a new Bendix drive. It now behaves exactly the same; it fires right up but I have to shut it down because the Bendix does not disengage. I have never encountered this situation before, and I'm really puzzled. Anyone ever see this? Suggestions? I plan on counting the teeth on the flywheel next. can anyone confirm the correct number? Thank you for any advice or ideas. Ward Duffield Pine Plains, NY
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