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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. For the windshield installation in the '69 Beetle last week I used KY lubricant. Other than some comments from observers it worked very well.....for the windshield.
  2. Our V/8 '56 had three-speed with overdrive. My brother and I figured out if you wind it up to 50 in first gear (or was it second?) you could get the overdrive to engage. Kids.......
  3. Here is a Google search of the forum (much better search engine than the forum search button) about windshield replacement: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A+p15-d24.com+replace+windshield&oq=site%3A+p15-d24.com+replace+windshield&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.18609j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here is a particular thread from that search that you may find useful: https://p15-d24.com/topic/33297-p15-windshield-replacement/ You do have a Service manual, right? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11042188&cc=1486110&pt=10335&jsn=496
  4. It looks like you don't have a service manual---you must have one if you intend to maintain/repair your car. If your car is similar to the P15 here is one source: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=379
  5. This topic has been discussed on the forum at least...oh.......nine million times. Here is a link from a Goggle search: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+fluid&oq=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+fluid&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.11423j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1 Having said that, the old standby was GL1 which some Mopar oldies still use. If you want to move into the 21st century Redline tranny lubricants such as MT90 and MTL are a great choice. They solved crunchy shifts in my '48 Plymouth. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTEWQ1U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  6. Good grief…..the Motive bleeder holds two and a half quarts, how much fluid do you need??
  7. Alternator comes with a schematic. Hook alternator wire to the wire on the regulator BAT terminal. Armature and field wires no longer used. Simple.
  8. 60 amp is fine and the ammeter works as usual. https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
  9. Joe, after you get tired of messin' with the genny and regulator yank them and install an alternator, your troubles will be over.
  10. It does not, just make sure you don't run the tank dry.
  11. It is my understanding the above photo is the factory orientation of the distributor, rotor position when pointing at #1 at TDC is at 7:00 o'clock. However, the distributor may be installed 180 degrees opposite from the standard position as is the case on my car. The rotor on my distributor points at 1:00 o'clock when firing #1 at TDC. Either installation works fine when the plug wires are clocked accordingly. The two different installations are dependent on how the oil pump was installed. It is imperative that #1 at TDC at compression be determined prior to installing the plug wires.....details provided in previous posts.
  12. I still really like the '56......I think that is what this thread is about..............
  13. It sounds like you don't have a service manual........
  14. Brings back good memories, I learned to drive in a '56 Savoy. Back then (the era of the '57 Chevy) I didn't consider the car to be particularly attractive but I now find it to be a car I would love to own....the design has passed the test of time.
  15. When I got my P15 the battery ground cable was connected to a thermostat bolt, am wondering if it came from the factory that way. I moved it to the bolt attached to the head that secures the air filter brace which doesn't penetrate the water jacket.
  16. When your truck was new it was positive ground. Since the ground cable is now connected to the - terminal of the battery it is now negative ground. The wire on the coil that goes to the distributor should be connected to the (-) terminal of the coil, and the ammeter should be wired so you see a positive indication when the battery is charging. If those are not the case reverse the wires. That's it. Carry on. P.S. My originally positive ground '48 Plymouth is very happy being negative ground after the above changes were made.
  17. The bung on my replacement tank was NPT threads, no ferrule needed. I used a brass NPT barb fitting to transition to rubber fuel line.
  18. What is overlooked many times is NPT fittings are designed to provide a seal via interference between the threads on the male and female parts of the connection. If the threads perform as designed no sealant is needed. In order for this interference fit to occur the male and female threads must be free of imperfections and torqued to the proper spec. But these fittings are mass produced and often the threads do not form the interference interface as designed and we are reluctant to apply as much torque as is needed to overcome the imperfect fit. There can also be difficulties in achieving full interference fit if a 90* fitting needs to be clocked a certain way. The main purpose of teflon tape is to serve as a lubricant so more torque can be applied to the fittings and the thread interference engaged. Use as a sealant is a secondary function of the tape and can assist in sealing without full interference torque being applied. Paste sealants work in the same manner as tape. Care must be taken with the use of tape or sealant to assure nothing is introduced into fuel or especially oil passages because the tape or sealant won't dissolve once clogging a fuel or oil passage. Proper technique will prevent this failure and keep us from having a sad day.
  19. If the seal is dependent on tight threads, use sealant. If the seal is dependent on a tightly fitting flare, sealant on the threaded nut holding the flare together is not needed, the threads aren't forming the seal. A highly regarded sealant:
  20. Yep, sitting on the cowl, fender or bumper is "in contact with the car". Boat and aircraft fires from using plastic cans is a reality, especially in low-humidity climates. There also has to be a reason for the federally mandated placards on gas pumps.
  21. On the ground at the gas station, in contact with the car when using it for test running.
  22. The static issue arises when there is a difference in the electrical potential between the tank and vehicle which can result in a spark during fueling. The plastic tank sitting in the bed of the truck, even if it is wood, would drain potential and come to equilibrium with the truck so static discharge wouldn't be a concern. The danger with filling aircraft (or boats) with a plastic can (and I've done this many times) is the aircraft immediately after flight can be holding a static potential that built up while rapidly passing through air molecules in flight. The plastic can isn't grounded to the airframe and a potential difference between airframe and can may exist resulting in a spark. The solution is to either use metal cans that are grounded to the airframe or make an effort to have contact between the plastic can and the airframe (or boat) so hopefully a potential difference is dissipated. I've used a welding rod inserted into the can and connected to the airframe with a cable and clamp to dissipate static potential. This is why the gas pumps at your local station have a placard warning us NOT to fill our plastic cans when they are in the bed of our truck. They should always be on the ground which puts them at the same potential as the grounded pump so static discharge won't occur. Now back to your regular programming.
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