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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. This is an update to the thread about installation of too-firm transmission mounts on my P15. It seems the issues I experienced were due to the lower mounts I installed. After removing the lower mounts to return to an configuration more like the one shown in the Service Manual illustration the car now runs smoothly as it did prior to installing the new mounts. Here are the new lower mounts that I removed that are currently sold by vendors: These mounts require longer bolts than the originals due to their thickness. Compare this to the Service Manual: It seems the transmission of vibration to the car was due to the mount bolt being captured by the lower mounts. When I removed the lower mounts smoothness returned. It appears the closest arrangement to the original design is to not use the lower mounts that are currently available. The lower mounts may indeed be correct for some applications but my '48 P15 is much happier without lower mounts.
  2. UPDATE; Smoothness has returned! I removed the lower mounts and snugged the large bottom washers up against the bushing. The washer does not contact the frame member. The car now runs smoothly as it did prior to replacing the mounts. It appears the lower mounts were the primary contributor to the harshness that has been present since new upper and lower mounts were installed. Apparently it is best to just have the transmission "resting" on the mounts vs "secured" to the frame member via lower mounts. I wonder if this is why Steele only offers new vulcanized upper mounts. At this point I don't know if the new mounts are indeed too firm and elimination of the lower mounts is a work-around or if the new mounts are made from a satisfactory material. Whichever is the case, we seem to have a solution. It has been an interesting saga....hopefully this will help others who are replacing mounts......install just upper mounts!
  3. Thanks, Marc. I'm still unclear on how the original mounts were designed. When I removed the old mounts there was no lower mount, just the upper. I assumed the lowers had deteriorated enough to fall out. But the illustrations in the manual show a small lower mount, much smaller than the lowers that are shipped with mounts nowadays. I've never seen lower mounts from any vendor that look like the lowers in the illustrations. Matter of fact, the original bolts aren't long enough to go through the lowers that are sold now. I had to get 4" bolts to install the lower mounts. So should we install just the upper mounts now? Are the large lower mounts correctly used in some applications? The manual seems to show the large lower washer riding just below the frame cross member. I think I'll do as has been suggested and remove the lower mounts and snug the large lower washer up against the bushing and see how that works.
  4. That might work, Joe, I'll give this some thought. Might delete the lower mounts, too.
  5. Oh its been out....about five times.....
  6. Well...lookee what I found.....was poking around on the Rock Auto site for a couple of items and found some transmission mounts listed under the 1954 Plymouth section (my car is a '48 and no mounts listed for that year). Matter of fact they had two sources for upper mounts from which to choose. And.....one of the mounts was only $2.45 instead of the $12 I paid "the other place". Hey, why not order a pair and see what they look like? Here they are: And they do a passable job of passing the thumbnail test! These were made in India and appear to be rubber instead of the hard stuff my other new mounts are made of. Now...if someone wants to volunteer to pull the transmission out of my car we'll pop these puppies in and see if Smoothness returns. (I've had ponderings about whether or not the bellhousing could be wedged up enough with the tranny in place to swap out the mounts....it would be very tight but might work.....)
  7. Or rolled down........
  8. The Resources section of this forum is a friendly place. Here is the link found in that section about how to polarize your genny: http://p15-d24.com/files/file/16-flashingpolarizing-generator-guide/
  9. If your car has been truly changed to negative ground the coil and ammeter wires have been reversed. If that is the case (ammeter shows discharge when you turn on the lights without the engine running) turn the battery around so you have the negative post grounded. Probably need to install the regulator from the donor as well since it is set up for charging the 6v battery. If your donor items turn out to be sketchy you can go the alternator route.
  10. The dewpoints here are in the 70's......almost need gills........and three showers a day.......
  11. I forgot to add....there was a question about my alternator order and the vendor took it on himself to call me and make sure I had received what I wanted. I talked to him a couple of times and came away impressed with his integrity and eagerness to follow up with a customer. Great price, excellent personal service.....I like. One other item; the alternator pulley nut protrudes more than the generator nut. The old nut is flush with the forward face of the generator pulley, the alternator nut protrudes forward of the pulley face a bit. In my case I used a slightly longer belt (mine is 5/8" wide) so there would not be interference with the fan blades. The vendor told me he had heard of other instances where the belt length needed to be tweaked. He also stated that the nut had enough meat for minor machining if the installation is particularly tight. Mine worked fine.
  12. Pulley is included, my alternator was $129.95......shipped....it is a race-horse deal for a 60amp alternator. I didn't purchase the bracket, fabbed my own. After chasing an erratic gen/reg voltage and taking the regulator apart twice, trying a new regulator that was DOA, then having the whole mess just totally die, it was a wonderful moment when I fired up the new alternator and immediately saw a solid 7.2 volts. It has been flawless since and "refills" the battery a minute or so after a start. The ignition wires are fine, just some dirt on the distributor cap caused an optical convulsion....
  13. There are very good reasons why modern cars have an alternator instead of generator and regulator.....keithb7 pointed out several of them. Here is what the alternator installation looks like in my car: There is only one wire coming from the alternator and there is no voltage regulator, the alternator is internally regulated.....very simple....and your ammeter will still work. The black box you see where the regulator used to be is a 60a fuse. It is usually necessary to fabricate a different alternator brace but that is a simple job, and you can purchase the alternator with a bracket that is adaptable to the old generator bracket. Here is what I'm using: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/category_2/Special-Applications--6-Volt-8-Volt-and-12-Volt-Positive-Ground.htm For less than $150 I expect to have a stable, strong maintenance-free charging system that will last longer than I own the car. I also highly recommend you install a new set of battery cables if the old ones are showing any sign of degradation. Less than $50 and one of the best things you can do for improving starter performance: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html So....for $200 you have a new robust charging system that shouldn't need any future attention and will offer better performance than the old system ever could.
  14. I second the recommendation to install a voltmeter, that is the best way to diagnose charging problems and show the true condition of your battery. I installed one under the dash while troubleshooting the erratic generator/regulator in my P15 before getting tired of chasing problems and installing an alternator as the final solution. I had to search for awhile to find an inexpensive meter with a low enough scale to easily read 6-8v but found this one on eBay. You might also find one in the antique tractor community. Even though the alternator has proven to be rock solid I still find the meter a good way to confirm battery condition so it is still in the car.
  15. No....never done that............... 🤔 I would really like to fix the missing exhaust-to-intake gasket, but......the steel plate I wedged in between the manifolds is looking more and more satisfactory, especially since three of the bolts in the heat exchanger are already twisted off...... Hope you are able to put this saga behind you, pleasant weather will be arriving on the coast soon!
  16. Given your experience with this so-called machine shop I suspect if you had taken both manifolds bolted together that guy would have figured out a way to trash both of them....... This wasn't your fault, you were victimized.......
  17. I have a Signal Stat turn signal switch which has fused power supply. Since the brake lights are powered by the signal switch I'm thinking they are protected now.
  18. This is why I often read threads that don't appear to apply to my P15. I purchased an inline fuse holder this morning for the courtesy light circuit....I really hadn't considered the consequences of a shorted wire behind the headliner. 😲
  19. So could these manifolds be salvaged if bolted together and resurfaced as a set, or has too much material been removed from the exhaust manifold already?
  20. It was useless without the add-on mirror, couldn't find any position on the door frame that would work. After nearly pulling over into another car I decided to stick on the little Habba Fright mirror I had left from another project, am very pleased how well it works. Sometimes we get lucky.
  21. Nope, seat is in normal position and the small wide-angle mirror works great, can see down the whole side of the car and into the adjoining lane, even clears the vent when in full air-conditioning mode. This is the second time today I've been told that something I've done to my car won't work.......tough crowd on this here forum...or maybe it just has a significant population of crotchety old men...... 😉
  22. My P15 came with a set of weathered clamp-on mirrors and I also found the passenger side mirror to be worthless for seeing around the large blind spot in the sedan. The work-around I use is sorta clunky looking but gives me warning if someone sidles up on my right rear fender:
  23. I found a great way to stabilize the erratic charging current in my P15 and enhance longterm reliability at the same time. I realize this solution isn't for everyone.....but you can see it in the photo below.
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