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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Replaced the shackle bushings today.....railroad crossings no long go thumpity-CLUNK. The new rear engine mounts along with the shackle bushings also eliminated most of the clutch chatter. I found some Moog bushings at a good price on eBay but they are the domed head style. I cut 5/16" off the head of each bushing with the bandsaw as shown in the photo and they then looked like the bushings in my car and fit perfectly. Moog K200917 These are readily available. Be advised there are two bushings in each box. The eBay vendor advertised "8" bushings, but I received eight boxes....I now have an extra set of bushings.
  2. To close the loop on this thread the rear engine mounts and spring shackle bushings have been replaced. This eliminated most of the clutch chatter, no work on the clutch is planned. Good to go.
  3. Satchel Paige had the best philosophy concerning age: "How old would you be if you didn't know how old you are?"
  4. Removing the manifold can be straight forward.....or a nightmare. Read this thread starting with post #85 to see how bad it can get: http://p15-d24.com/topic/49976-the-windward-48-dodge-survivor/page/4/#comments
  5. Put your hand down near the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold while the car is idling.....bet you will find that gasket is blown out and the exhaust is put-putting.... The gasket is gone in my '48 P15 but until I get around to pulling the manifolds (ughhhhh) I made a steel plate that slides into that gap in between the (broken off) bolts and stops most of the leak. The carb heater flap is wedged closed by the plate.
  6. Congratulations on your new ride! Advice; Eat the elephant one bite at a time.
  7. Here is what I'm working with: Tough getting a retractor in that space......
  8. Has anyone solved the problem of where to put the shoulder belt retractor in a P15 4-door? That pillar is really skinny and I haven't figured out a way to mount the retractor so it doesn't protrude into the rear door entry.
  9. That is interesting, looks similar to the lower mounts we have, but not what is in the Service Manual illustration....best I can tell. Well....I don't know what we should be running, but I do know my P15 (and her driver) is perfectly happy with just uppers. I would love to have a copy of your master PDF file.
  10. I've about decided these old brakes are never "the best"..... Enjoy your new ride, it looks great!
  11. The gas cap vent can be easy to overlook, the cap on my P15 incorporates four tiny vents in the perimeter of the cap. They are connected to the two openings near the cap latching arms. Corrosion can do a number on this little vents. While I was chasing fuel delivery problems (engine randomly stopping) I drilled an 1/8" hole in the tank filler neck to make sure the tank was vented: The final solution to my fuel saga involved all new fuel lines, new fuel tank, mechanical pump block-off plate, new electric pump and filter. The car has been totally reliable since. I wanted to use a Facet diaphram pump because I've had great service from them on aircraft and cars for twenty years....but they don't make a 6v version. I ended up with a 6v Carter rotary pump (regulator has not been necessary), and yes, it needs to be located near the tank (no need to ask me and AAA how I know this......).
  12. The illustration appears to show lower mounts but they are nothing like the lowers that are available today, I've never seen lowers like the illustration offered for sale. There were no lowers on my car when I changed mounts, I just assumed they had deteriorated to the point that they had disappeared but a parts book creates doubt as to whether or not the P15 should have lowers. Compare the illustration to the lowers I recently purchased. These mounts are so much thicker that a longer bolt is required and it is impossible to snug the nut up against the metal bushing without extremely compressing the mounts. Yep, the uppers can be pretty squashed.....
  13. A veteran parts guy looked at my "Corvette" cylinder and said it looked like what was used on '70's Chevy vans. I think the problem was insufficient displacement due to smaller bore and possibly slightly shorter stroke. I would still like to convert to a dual-chamber cylinder since I have the mount and pushrod fabricated which worked very nicely.
  14. I attempted to replace the MC on my '48 P15 with a generic "Corvette" dual chamber cylinder and never could get a pedal. I too decided the 1" bore generic cylinder didn't have enough displacement to replace the 1 1/8" stock cylinder. Yes, brakes can be a pain in several bodily locations......
  15. The yoke has to be pulled to replace the seal.......
  16. Uhhhhhh......we're talking about sleeving the drive pinion flange (yoke).....the drive pinion stays put. Or maybe I misunderstood your post....the unicorn thing kinda lost me.......
  17. Ok.......no need to rub it in for us jackstand bums....... 😁 Thank you for the tips, I have a pinion seal on the bench waiting for "my mechanic" to gather enough gumption to JACK UP THE CAR and replace the seal. 😅 Since my car has fewer miles than yours I'm hoping a sleeve won't be needed.
  18. New mounts solved your reverse shift problem, but for future reference, it can be necessary to adjust the shift linkage after replacing mounts. This was the case with my P15, with new mounts it wouldn't go into reverse. The solution was to "shorten" the gear selector rod since the rear of the transmission was now closer to the shifter. The nut on the gear selector rod was tightened a few turns and reverse was then able to be engaged. Here is an illustration from the Service Manual:
  19. Yes, ordering mounts does indeed seem to be a crap shoot, the Marmon's I got were a rubber that leaves a black residue on your hands. But the best solution so far is to install only upper mounts. The Berbaum mounts I have are pretty hard but work fine without the lowers. Thank you for the feedback and glad you have a smooth ride back---hoping our cars won't need mounts for a very long time. My engineering degree was awarded under a shade tree but I suspect the vibration is primarily transmitted via the left lower mount as the engine rocks clockwise due to torque impulses. In this scenario the bolt would be pulling the lower washer "up" against the lower mount and creating a path for vibes to travel to the frame. Without a lower mount the washer just rides along without contacting anything. It seems the Chrysler engineers had this figured out nicely, we managed to mess it up due to lack of knowledge of how the mounts should be configured.....and clueless retailers who sell us lower mounts we shouldn't be using.....
  20. Now is the time to add turn signal wires to the new harness...........
  21. Don't know if you can install new uppers with the tranny in place, I had the transmission out when installing new mounts, but it would certainly be worth trying. The bolts won't be a problem, you just need enough of a gap to pull the old mounts out and insert the new ones. There was plenty of gap with the transmission slid back free of the bellhousing. I had to use a pry bar to nudge the bellhousing a bit to get the bolts to drop back in place.
  22. The last configuration of the lower mount installation I tried prior to removing the lower donuts was to loosen the bolt to the point that the mounts were not compressed at all by bolt tension, the washers just barely touched the lower mounts. This still resulted in vibration being transmitted to the frame. My engineering degree was awarded under a shade tree but I suspect the vibration was primarily transmitted via the left lower mount as the engine rocked clockwise due to torque impulses. In this scenario the bolt would be pulling the lower washer "up" against the lower mount. Without a lower mount the washer just rides along without contacting anything. It seems the Chrysler engineers had this figured out nicely, we managed to mess it up due to lack of knowledge of how the mounts should be configured. A more detailed discussion of this can be found in this thread. The real problem is retailers not having a clue as to which mounts should be used in which applications. They blindly sell the lowers for a wide range of cars which should not be using them....and those of us with a limited knowledge base don't know any better than to attempt to make them work.
  23. Yes, things are much clearer now than a couple weeks ago, the education continues. I just assumed the people selling parts knew what they were doing when they listed lower mounts for our cars.....silly me. 😉 I hope this thread is useful for those considering replacing mounts.
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