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Sam Buchanan

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Posts posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. 10 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

    Not sure. I would probably expect a different seal for the sleeve application... But then, again, I've never even heard of these in the first place.

     

    Uses the same seal, the sleeve is only a very few thou's thick. This is not untested tech, these things are an accepted repair. I'm running one on the crank hub of my P15.

     

    crank-hub-6.thumb.jpg.c2ec9890a9153b07f52fa317babb850c.jpgcrank-hub.jpg.d6cbdf70d96cd08ce4ccbffc004606e1.jpg

  2. 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

    What's a Speedi sleeve? A jacket you put on a worn hub to use with oversized seal?

    That groove is too much. If you can see it with your eyes, the seal will not seal properly... ? The proper way to fix that is to get a new hub or machine the existing one (proper sleeve or metal coating).

     

    Speedi-Sleeves (proprietary brand name) are a common and widely accepted repair in the automotive and commercial communities. They have been around for a long and are available to fit nearly any size sealing surface.

     

    https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

     

    Your education is proceeding at a break-neck pace....first solder sleeves and now speedi-sleeves!  ?

    • Haha 1
  3. 9 hours ago, stukamensch said:

    Hey all just joined, about to buy a 1948 special deluxe police model, it looks really clean no rust CA car, its been updated to a 12v system and a th350 trans anything i should specifically look for on these cars. Still has the original motor, and police equipment.

    Thank you all in advance!

     

    Is this car running and driving or not? Some major problem areas include brakes, fuel system, cooling system and electrical. If the car is roadworthy then it will be easy to get a rudimentary idea of the condition of these systems. If not then it is best to consider this car a project that may need extensive ($$$$) work in these areas. 

     

    It depends on what you want, a car that you can drive now or a project with good bones. It is difficult to offer specific ideas without knowing your intentions. The fact the car has a modern auto transmission is reason to wonder what other mods have been made and this makes it more difficult to evaluate. The driveshaft won't be stock and questions arise about the rear axle (brakes, final drive ratio, etc?).

    • Like 1
  4. 10 hours ago, Doremonger said:

    I just bought a 1948 New Yorker business coupe and wondering if there are build sheets available for these plus reprints of manuals? Thanks in advance. 

     

    Kissimmee or Barret Jackson? Ahhh....a closer look at the photos gives it away....found the listing.   :)

     

    Beautiful car!

  5. 39 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

    I've had, but I know nothing about the quality of workmanship and the materials used so it is unknown what was the cause.

    I would probably advise against mimicking the mass manufacturing, mainly because their main priority is cost reduction, as much as possible. Same goes with all new inventions, unfortunately. I suspect that many new techniques and materials get a bad reputation not because of their inherent qualities but because they allow greater cost reduction (poorer product quality, but still functional). If a plane goes down, now and then, its not a big deal unless a) they can be proven to be at fault b) the risk and magnitude of consequences outweigh the savings, and c) they do not have other safeguards in place, such as regularly requiring to replace all these parts anyway.


    Wow……………….

  6. There is a very simple solution for those who have concerns or questions about solder sleeves.

     

    Don't use them.

     

    However....if your wiring architecture puts tensile strain on your soldered connections then the wiring design is faulty....wires too short or poorly oriented. A fundamental requirement of proper wiring design is to incorporate strain relief. Fix the underlying deficiency then any type of splice will be more than adequate in our cars. I use crimped connectors with a ratcheting crimper, never had issues even with crimps that are 25 years old in my aircraft.

     

    I instructed mil-spec soldering during my first real job a loooong time ago where we built harnesses and boards for Army things that blew stuff up. I can still solder fairly well and don't hesitate to use it if applicable but there are far faster methods for splicing wire that are perfectly suitable for most applications.

  7. 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

    These are supposed to be "heat-shrink soldering", why is there a crimper on the main banner? ?

    I was under impression that these shrink (including the metal ring in the middle) but do not actually solder. If they actually solder, I would sure like to see the outer insulation jacket removed, and the soldered connection exposed for inspection, after the fact ?

     

    You can rest assured the major brand connectors work and work well when properly applied. They have been around for a long time and are common in aviation and defense applications. 

     

    I don't know why there is a crimper in that ad. The RayChem connectors DO NOT get crimped, but they are definitely a soldered connection. The sleeves are transparent for easy inspection.

     

    403289-000.JPG

     

    Here is the datasheet for the RayChem SolderSleeve wire splices:

     

    https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=2347480-1_raychem-devices&DocType=Data+Sheet&DocLang=English&DocFormat=pdf&PartCntxt=403289-000

  8. 9 minutes ago, chris 48 P15 said:

    looks like heat gun is enough to solder?

     

    Yes, they use a very low temp solder. I would source these from an electronic supply such as Digikey or Mouser to insure getting a mainstream brand instead of an offshore knockoff. (Apologies for the long link) TE Connectivity seems to be a vendor that services the aerospace and marine industry.

     

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-aerospace,-defense-and-marine/CWT-3/2046047?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Category_Cables and Wires&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20053924771_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-2046047_sig-Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB

  9. 13 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

    Were these "carefully colorized" by a neural network? There are obvious mistakes\blemishes on most of these photos... ?

    These cars, in their day, were brand new, so there is no surprise that they were taken everywhere across the country and abroad under all sorts of driving conditions.

     

    Yes, the colorization is a little flakey but that wasn't the point of including the link.

     

    Each time I address a service/repair issue on the P15 I try to resolve it to like-new condition or at least to where it will function as close to like-new as I can get it. The reason for that being my emphasis is to make the car as reliable as it would have been when it was in daily service. It has proven to be a very dependable driver (just wish the rear seal didn't leak!).

    • Like 1
  10. 45 minutes ago, bacelaw said:

    Ever see the videos on Facebook of a day in the life in some city from the 1940's?  

     

    I keep reminding myself, people drove these cars daily.  In the snow, in the cold, they drove them.  None of us are getting any younger.  If you want to drive a 40's vehicle every day - do it.  Undercoat the frame and floor with Fluid Film every year.

     

    These cars will outlast all of us.  

     

    This is why driving my 1948 P15 is fascinating for me. Every time I point it down the road I realize I have been transported to 1948 (except for our roads being far better). If I'm concerned about driving it some distance I recall that these cars in their day were driven......everywhere. Two summers ago I spent some time (in a fairly new F-150) on original portions of Rt 66. I wish it had been practical to get my P15 on those old highways, that would have been a trip back in time. Wow.....imagine driving these old cars for hundreds of miles across the desert SW.....we worry about getting to Dairy Queen and back.....  ?

     

    So I've returned my P15 to as close to new condition as possible and drive it wherever I wish knowing it was built to be somebody's main (only?) form of transportation. It is proving to be a great journey, our cars belong on the road.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nYzMY_fuJU

  11. 4 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

    No.

    If you want to drive an older car, look for the newest and the most expensive one (based upon its objective physical condition) that will feel old-enough for you, and enjoy.

     

    This is outstanding advice and difficult to accept for those who think they can transform a rough project car into a reliable driver. Returning a rough car to good roadworthiness will ALWAYS cost far more than anticipated. The onion just has more layers than we expect.......Just the price of paint and interior can be overwhelming and that doesn't include whatever mechanical work is needed.

     

    It is better to buy a nice car (an older restoration is ideal) for a price less than what the restorer has invested, let them take the financial hit. This is the most economical path if a "daily driver" that looks nice is desired. Like the old Fram oil filter commercial....."You can pay me now or pay me later"!  :)

    • Like 2
  12. 5 hours ago, SteveR said:

    My question was because there is some wear on this engine would a 'stop-smoke' additive help with the longevity of my engine? What about other additives? As I am retired my funds do not include any engine rebuilds.

    I only mentioned no-smoke because my engine does use a small amount of oil.

     

    I suspect these old engines always used a small amount of oil, they are pretty "loose". Mine leaks more than it uses!  ?

     

    I appreciate your desire to make the engine last as long as possible but your compression numbers indicate an engine that is in pretty good health. Driving it regularly is probably the best medicine you can give it.  :)

    • Like 1
  13. 1 hour ago, SteveR said:

    Ok Thats done now that my hands are frozen. Here are my results

    1) 100

    2)  75

    3)  85

    4)  75

    5)  85

    6)  93

    after putting in the oil they pretty much stayed the same. This last summer I adjusted the valves as I had a ticking on one of them. The ticking is gone now. I am using 10w40 detergent oil in the engine. That's what the owner before me used and he dropped the pan several times to check for clumps and sludge.

    Like I said I do not notice any smoke out the exhaust but then my exhaust ends just behind the front seat. It is more I can smell it and I do go through a small amount of oil. Maybe 1 quart a year. 

     

     

    So what is the problem??   ?

     

    Sounds like a longer exhaust pipe will be the solution.

    • Like 1
  14. We may be comparing apples to oranges. The paint I purchased had the reducer already in the paint, it is advertised as "ready to spray, no reducer needed" after the gloss hardener is added. I am familiar with automotive paints and the various temp reducers, have used them on several automotive and aviation projects.

     

    No, I didn't read the data sheet on Summit's paint, I assumed it was similar to the system I used since the pricing is similar.....wrong assumption apparently.

  15. 1 hour ago, Sniper said:

     

    From the listing:

     

    They mix at a 4:1 ratio, so when a gallon of paint is mixed with our activator (sold separately), you get a full 5 qts. of usable paint.

     

    Activator is also referred to as gloss hardener. But the reducer is already in the paint and you don't know whether it is slow, medium or fast reducer and the best temp for application.

  16. 1 hour ago, Bob Riding said:

    A few years ago, my brother-in-law, who restored old cars in his spare time, was able to get paint from New Jersey much cheaper than what we would pay for here in California. Are there regional differences outside of California or are we uniform with paint requirements nationwide?

     

    The automotive urethane finishes (they are more than just paint....) are now stupid expensive everywhere! I think everyone has pretty much adopted CA's VOC requirements.

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