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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. My apologies since it is obvious you were offended by my post. No, alternators are not the ideal solution for some applications, a point I thought was made in a previous post. The wiring diagram I posted is a cut-n-paste from the website of the vendor where I purchased my alternator, I claim no originality, was just trying to be helpful for a fellow poster. As far as whether or not there is objectionable drain with a one-wire alternator or if it is even an acceptable option.......think I'll go get the popcorn popper warmed up.....
  2. Pete, connect the wire from the alternator to the wire(s) that is currently (sorry....) connected to the regulator BAT terminal. Then use the regulator as a nostalgic paperweight on your desk.
  3. The new alternator cost considerably less than the $$$$'s I was looking at throwing at the antique stuff to bring it up to where it would function only partially as well (on a good day!) as an alternator.
  4. It is possible my attempt at subtle humor may have gotten lost during the trip to Denmark....... The alternator has an electronic regulator......hence he can have a new-tech regulator and as a bonus.....a new alternator! As has been mentioned, the alternator is so efficient there won't be any indicated drain, it will be able to accommodate whatever load our old cars can put on it at any engine speed. The ammeter actually takes on the function of a load-meter instead of the traditional ammeter because it indicates the amount of current the alternator is providing to keep the battery at full charge. When I have all the lights turned on the needle barely deflects to the right.....and the battery stays charged. An alternator is a great upgrade that solves the problems associated with the antique charging system.
  5. You can remove the regulator, it is not needed. The only reason the old regulator is shown in the drawing is for those who wish to keep the regulator in the engine bay for appearance reasons and it is being shown as merely a junction. But the old regulator has absolutely no function if you use the one-wire alternator. As long as the alternator is patched into your wiring with the ammeter between the alternator and the loads in the car the meter will continue to function.
  6. This "cupping" looks very similar to how the new shoes purchased from Bernbaum looked on my P15 after a few miles. You can see the areas of the shoe that are not contacting the drum in the photo below. I assume they are due to manufacturing variations and will disappear as the shoe wears into full contact with the drum. Arcing the shoes would be the ultimate solution but I don't know of anyone locally who offers that service.
  7. These one-wire alternators have a built-in regulator, just connect the single wire to your harness and you are good to go. The ammeter will continue to work normally. I found the proprietor of this vendor to be very easy to deal with and eager to make sure their product works properly. You will like having bright headlights at idle speed.
  8. A reliable 6v electronic regulator is indeed available.......and as a bonus it comes with a reliable source of generating electricity: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_24/6-Volt-Alternators-Positive-Ground.htm I have one.... I like it!
  9. Replace those squashed transmission mounts while you are in there......
  10. This is getting complicated...... 🙄 My car runs great.......I'm not the original poster. But your suggestion to check the accelerator pump is valid.
  11. Ok. I'm sure he'll get it running smoothly.
  12. Some clearcoat and you are good to go! 😁
  13. Ok..........we have recently chewed on engine vibration problems, below are a couple of threads you will want to read: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481 http://p15-d24.com/topic/50729-48-p15-clutchengine-mount-questions/?tab=comments#comment-538165 You may need a balancer but you need to know about the known engine mount issues before spending a lot of time and effort on a balancer.
  14. He stated the engine would die only when he tried to accelerate...it idled fine otherwise. The engine isn't shutting off.
  15. If your Dad is of a certain age he is flashing back to the horribly gruesome photos we were shown in high school of drivers literally being impaled by the steering column......he probably isn't that old but I bet he heard about that from your Granddad...... Try for a compromise.....keep the stock column but install a high-quality 3-point safety harness. Your car is looking great!
  16. Beautiful car! Your stated the problem started after the engine warmed up. Check the idle mixture (not idle speed), it is adjusted with a screw on the side of the carb. You seem to be describing a lean mixture that appears after the engine gets hot. Try slowly turning the mixture screw each direction for smoothest idle (this is a rough adjustment) and see if the stalling problem is diminished. You do have a Service Manuel....right?
  17. Take a close look at the timing chain cover at the front of the engine. If the seal is leaking oil will blow back and collect on the rear of the engine. The other likely source is the rear crank seal. No need to ask why my P15 and I know about these leaks......
  18. If the spindle is the same size as the axles on my P15 the nuts is a 3/4" -16. There is a photo of the spindle and nut on my thread about building a brake adjustment tool. I bought a couple of these nuts at the local John Deere dealer and also got some from an Amazon vendor. http://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/?tab=comments#comment-532931
  19. Hope you can get the LEDs to work well, they are great technology due to high output with negligible current draw.
  20. Pete, the fact your LED bulbs have a more diverse beam pattern means something changed in the combination of light source and reflector. Light source and reflector alignment is VERY critical, a tiny change can have a major impact on reflector performance. If the LEDs are located precisely where the old bulb filaments used to be the beam pattern should be similar. Another factor can be light scatter which occurs if the light source is tossing a lot of light forward instead of back into the reflector. This might be a contributor due to the LEDs being so much brighter than the old bulbs. This is why many headlights have shields in front of the elements. There is a lot of engineering in headlight design.....change one component and that engineering can be altered radically. Fortunately, we have choices.
  21. Wow...if you had that scanned at a document shop and made the file available via download or email a bunch of us would love to have it! (Or just shoot it with a high-quality digital camera....)
  22. Is anyone aware of a source for sealed beam 6v LED headlights? The loss of focus with headlights that have been retrofitted with LED bulbs is due to the reflector being designed for the point-source of light from an incandescent bulb vs the large-area source of the LED cluster. Having the reflector and element working very closely in concert is key to having a properly focused headlight. A sealed beam unit where the "bulb" and reflector are designed as a system would most likely result in light dispersal more like what we are accustomed to seeing with traditional headlights. A bright light source isn't of much value (except for blinding other motorists...) if the reflector can't project a useful beam down the road.
  23. All very nice rides, James......but they will burn a bit more fuel than our flatheads......
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