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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. The Search function of the forum is your friend. Here is a recent thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50931-1949-special-deluxe-radial-tires/?tab=comments#comment-540574
  2. Take a look at this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1124845&jsn=3
  3. Alternator! (running for cover.... 😁 )
  4. Simple physics; at sea level water boils @ 212*F, it doesn't expand prior to boiling. "Expansion" is due to steam bubbles trapped in the water resulting from localized temps above 212*. Water at sea level pressure cannot be heated higher than 212* regardless of how much heat you throw at it, it just changes phase (steam). That is why pressurized systems will run at higher temps, the higher pressure raises the boiling point. If water is being ejected at an indicated 175*, then either the gauge is defective or there are areas within the system that have exceeded 212* which is creating steam that is pushing water out the vent.
  5. The P15 is now back on the road and is as quiet as a new 1948! With the windows down I can't hear the engine above 40 mph. Total expenditure was less than $50 which included new gaskets, five new studs, a 3/8" drill/tap, the stud extractor, a tube of anti-seize, four bolts for the heat riser and all new nuts. The block-off plate for the heat riser came from my scrap box. Ten hours of labor working on a neat old car.......priceless.
  6. The manual for the P15 says to not fill the radiator any more than an inch or so of the top so coolant won't slosh out the vent during a hard turn. So it looks like a non-pressure cap and a vent hose connected to the neck would give us a non-pressure system like the original. Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep this in mind if I need to replace the original radiator at some point. I like the non-pressure system because it doesn't put any stress on fittings, hoses, heater core, etc. By the way, Scott, the Plymouth runs with just a subdued hum now with the fresh exhaust gaskets! Fuel pump is almost as loud as the engine.
  7. Is there an easy way to modify an aluminum radiator or a cap so it won't develop any pressure? Maybe install a bulkhead fitting in the top of the radiator so a vent hose can be attached? Will a non-pressure cap like we use on our old radiators fit on an aluminum radiator so the overflow can be used as a vent? Just thinking ahead in case a new radiator is ever needed on my P15.
  8. Yep, that is a nice tool. I resorted to lower tech....a stud extractor picked up at Autozone. That thing worked great for pulling the long studs and the stubs sticking out of the intake manifold. Got the studs turning with a long breaker bar and finished them up with the ratchet. Now in the process of tapping the stud hole I drilled out and then the block will be ready for installation. Next job is the block-off plate for the exhaust manifold and modding the intake manifold.
  9. A fairly recent thread that has some info about sill plates: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50360-p15-door-sills-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-534454
  10. I plan to put some heat on the block around the long studs with a torch prior to attempting to back them out (bought a stud extractor). But even if they come out one short stud is broken off even with the block. I'll try welding a nut to it before resorting to drilling and tapping.
  11. Repressed???? Madison, AL has the highest per capita ratio of engineers of any city in the country.........white collar welfare thanks to the incredible Huntsville economy!
  12. I'm going a different direction with the heat riser situation. The exhaust manifold will get a blockoff plate that is bolted to the manifold, and the intake will be trimmed to allow clearance for the blockoff plate bolt heads. I don't want to ever have to deal with a blown gasket between manifolds and I'm not worried about losing the preheat. I will make new steel washers where two manifold ears are secured by hte same nut.
  13. Just to close the loop....overall it's been a pretty good day for an old retired guy: The manifolds survived in one piece, had to work them off a 1/16" at a time. Two long studs and three shorts need to be replaced, the other shorts look good. But I can look forward to drilling some studs and retapping holes....... Does anyone have a source (with part numbers) for these studs or do I go ahead and pop $70 for a complete kit? I also have a stud extractor tool on the shopping list. Thank you for the suggestions, sometimes input will stimulate the brain cells into finding a solution!
  14. The manifolds are stuck tight to the block. But I got the nut off. I removed the remaining fender liner (should have done this when I puller the lower liner) and was able to get a Dremel with a cutting bit into the recess. Yes, the nut is brass, MIG weld wouldn't have worked and the threads in the nut were completely gone. All the fasteners are off, now need to find a way to get the manifolds to release from the block without breaking anything. I think the biggest problem is those two lower long studs appear to be a very tight fit. I'll try a wood wedge to see it it will start moving. Thank you for the suggestions thus far!
  15. I don't think you guys understand the location of this nut. Imagine a nut in the bottom of a spark plug hole........there is no getting behind the nut......but I may try making a tool out of a screw driver to see if I can put enough force on it to make it "bite".
  16. Yes, it is lucky #13 that is causing the problem. I would love to split the nut but how do you get a splitter into this recess?
  17. I have a stripped nut! 😲 The leaky exhaust manifold gaskets on the P15 have lately increased their bark telling me they need attention. I've put this job off for a long time due to dreading all the problems that can arise. This morning I decided it was time so out came the fender liner and carb. The tally so far is two studs backed out, two studs broken off, and eight nuts removed. All four of the heat riser bolts snapped off leaving stubs in the exhaust riser. All that remains is one of the nuts on a long stud buried in the recess of the manifold. The problem is this nut is just spinning on the stud and won't come off. The other long stud snapped off. How to remove this nut in the very limited space? I'm inclined to try welding the nut to the stud then either backing out the stud or more likely...breaking it. I am open to suggestions and hope someone has a good solution. I can't remove just the intake for better access because of the broken stubs in the heat riser. I've considered sawing off the stubs but don't know if I can get to the ones next to the block. REALLY hoping the brain trust can come up with ideas......and thanks in advance!
  18. And after using the "dot" to get to the first unread post in a thread and reading the threads you are interested in, hit the "Mark forum as Read" link so only the threads with new posts will show in bold text next time you visit the forum.
  19. Install the alternator, remove the extra batteries and associated chargers, and install new, properly-sized battery cables on the one remaining battery (your cables appear to be undersize). Your car will start very nicely! If you are using a battery disconnect switch be sure it has HUGE current carrying capacity otherwise you are probably losing starting current at the disconnect. But.....if everything is fused......why worry with disconnecting the batteries? P.S. Your phone is one of the most full-featured GPS's available......
  20. And don't use that hammer to hit the end of the puller, the Service Manual states that might damage the bearings and brake backing plate on the other side. A barefoot mechanic, eh?
  21. I was concerned about the possibility of smoke escaping so installed a fuse between the alternator and ammeter when the alternator upgrade occurred.
  22. I consider a voltmeter to be more useful for showing battery condition than an ammeter. When the voltmeter indicates a solid 7.2-7.4vdc the alternator is doing its job.
  23. If the ammeter needle is deflected right of the center mark the alternator is charging. The meter operates, and is wired, the same way as with a generator.
  24. In order to insure that nobody is left with the impression that the alternator vendor has presented erroneous info via his circuit diagram, I wish to offer the following clarification. A careful reading of the diagram shows current path (this diagram is for a neg ground vehicle) transitioning from the alternator to the loads in the car. The diagram indicates the load path may begin with a fuse panel, or an amp gauge, or a horn relay. The current then is passed out to the accessories. In our application, the first item in line from the alternator is the amp gauge just as is the case with the old generator. This is a series circuit and allows the ammeter to indicate loads being absorbed by the accessories. This diagram is correct and allows the ammeter to show a discharge if the lights are on without the engine running. I just checked my car and that is the way the ammeter works.......but I think I would be more apt to see the headlights left on rather than a deflection of the ammeter needle....
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