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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. I noticed the same thing but didn't mention it because I didn't know if maybe the 1/4" steel might be stiff enough and it isn't cantilevered very much. But I had the same concern with the mount I built from lighter material and could detect a minute amount of flex. I added a brace to remove the possibility of fatigue of the bracket. A gusset on top of your bracket would do the trick.
  2. Looks like your vacuum wipers are working normally.......they are driven by intake vacuum which is greater when the throttle is closed and reduced with open throttle. Some owners install a vacuum accumulator which stores vacuum for a steady source and there may be a fuel pump for your car that incorporates a vacuum pump. I suspect a 6v motor is an option, maybe someone on the forum can supply that info. An alternator will keep your battery topped up and make for reliable starting without the maintenance requirements of a generator and regulator. You're just starting your old Mopar journey, you will eventually come to appreciate the wonderful engineering in these old cars.
  3. A healthy 6v system works very nicely for a daily driver. Only real reason for 12v is if you want to use 12v accessories. But the absolute first thing you need is one of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=374 Welcome to the community and enjoy your new ride!
  4. When our cars were built Torx wasn't even a gleam in an engineer's eyes....... ?
  5. Way too much thinking going on here......replace the pump.
  6. I was referring to the mechanical pump as used on our old Mopars. The in-tank pump may have been a rotary pump which wouldn't have a diaphragm.
  7. Fuel pumps can get erratic even if the diaphragm is still good and not leaking gas into the oil. There are check valves in the pump that have to be fully operational for maintaining proper fuel pressure. Perhaps a valve has gotten weak and in combination with winter gas is losing prime (I don't know where you live). I still think that pump is screaming "Replace me!".
  8. Good grief Sniper, go back and read my posts. I trying to agree with you but you won't agree to letting me agree with you....... ? Over and out.
  9. It matters if you are trying to remove a manifold that is attached with hardware that is corroded.......
  10. Yes, but did the previous owner(s) know that?
  11. Please be advised that removing manifolds may not be as easy as it was on the original poster's beautifully finished engine. It is very common to deal with stripped/broken studs, nearly impossible to remove nuts, and in worst cases broken manifolds. If a stud pulls out the coolant may need to be drained because some of the studs penetrate the water jacket. You will also need a complete manifold gasket set. If the car does have a removeable fender liner that is by far the better and less invasive route to valve access.
  12. The flat on the heads of those bolts fit against the crankshaft flange to keep them from turning while you torque the nuts. Nuts are on the flywheel (aft) end. The crank is rotated so the bolt closest to the floor can be inserted.
  13. I'm still 6v so it's a Carter P4259: https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P4259-Line-Electric-Fuel/dp/B000CIS4IU/ref=asc_df_B000CIS4IU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17773229802414862486&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012652&hvtargid=pla-568638290350&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61179236814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17773229802414862486&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012652&hvtargid=pla-568638290350 It's installed on the frame rail just ahead of the rear axle. I haven't needed a regulator or return line. It can be wired for either neg or positive ground.
  14. Then don't run the off-shore junk, get a real pump:
  15. Some of us got tired of messing with an antique mechanical pump, tossed it and run electric all the time...... Sounds like you definitely have a mechanical pump problem, the symptoms are textbook.
  16. A HUGE bonus for you is that you have nearly all the interior and exterior trim. That will save you a ton of time and $$$'s. I see Luke has his bottle of MMO close by so he should be able to fix about anything he finds. ?
  17. Yes, that does look like a solid car that should be a fine driver....I wouldn't do anything to the paint except some light cutting and buffing, leave it's character on full display. Just for clarification, the radiator is indeed non-pressurized, the open vent is visible on top of the radiator. Consequently, it doesn't matter what kind of cap is used, it will never pressurize with the open vent.
  18. My outlook on this situation has changed over the years. I formerly wasn't concerned about taking on an inexpensive project that required extensive body and interior work but the time and money required, especially as my personal odometer has wound up, has changed what I consider a good project. Now I'm looking for a vehicle that has body and interior close to what I consider acceptable for a good driver. I enjoy fixing the mechanical side of the project, but body and interior costs far more than the finished vehicle would ever be worth. And as Keith states, the "mellow" condition of body and interior doesn't detract from my enjoyment or other's appreciation of the car. If the car has good bones and reliable mechanicals, I'm a happy driver. The perfect project is an old restoration that still looks good but needs to be refreshed mechanically.....let somebody else pay the depreciation on the pretty stuff. I'm willing to pay more for that project! My perfect P15 with its 30 year-old paint and interior (and now daily reliability):
  19. The cars are just lobby décor.
  20. Glad Plymouthy joined the discussion, I didn't know the '50 was different dimensions from my '48.
  21. Yep, I saw that, too. But since the original post doesn't involve the switch I didn't mention it.
  22. Maybe this will help: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an6.php I just crawled back under the car, looks like you need a bolt with a 1.5" grip. So that will be an AN6-20 or AN6-21 with drilled shank depending on what assortment of washers you use. The rod end you referenced in an earlier post has the same width (.500) as the standard eye. Here are the AN310-6 castle nuts: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an310_320.php
  23. I was measuring and referring to the bolt that attaches the pushrod eye to the pedal.
  24. My memory is sorta returning……there is a nut welded on the pedal end of the pushrod and a bolt on the cylinder end. I would prefer an AN6 bolt for the pedal pin, high strength but not brittle.
  25. I just stepped out to the shop and to the best of my ability put calipers on the barely exposed threaded end of the pedal pin. I feel confident the pin is 3/8". I too used the stock ends on a fabbed pushrod and it works fine. I welded nuts on the ends of 4130 tubing to provide adjustment on both ends. This kept the old fittings in original condition in case they were ever needed in a standard installation.
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