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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.
  2. The yard too must have patina my friend....
  3. Wow....post a cool photo of somebody's lawn decor....and watch the negative comments fly......tough crowd. 🤔 I suspect the guy just enjoys seeing the old stuff every time he pulls into the lot, the place was overrun with antique archaeology. I'm going to give the feller the benefit of the doubt, hope he enjoys his treasures for as long as he wants.
  4. Oh no....have enough projects. I assume this one was either not for sale or the asking price unrealistic......there is a reason those vehicles have taken root.
  5. Found today.....somewhere in east Tennessee:
  6. Already had about 300 miles with 10W-30 before pulling the pan......hadn't used any oil during that time.....but it did leak some. 😁
  7. The path to a nice paint job involves water, sandpaper and knowing how to use a good buffer.
  8. Hey....if it was copied from the net then it has to be true....right? 😉
  9. Follow-up; problem solved with new sender. Note; As of this writing, the price shown in the Kanter catalog is for the one-wire sender, the two-wire is considerably more ($97). However, Kanter send a replacement sender for the one-wire version that was sent in error.
  10. Here are the guide pins that I found very useful for installing the pan. They are made from 5/16" bolts and one on each side of the pan was enough to get all the holes aligned so the bolts could be started. Slip the pan over the pins, then hold the pan up with one hand while starting a couple of bolts. Of course, a jack could be used to hold the pan in place.....but that would be too practical....
  11. Rear lower crank seal (rope) and oil pan gasket replaced. Man....this would be so much easier if the car was on a lift......I'm getting (gotten!) too old to be wallowing around under an old car on jack stands with oil dripping in my face. I'l be able to raise my arms above my shoulders in a couple of weeks..... 🤔 Many thanks to the forum member who suggested making guide pins to assist with reinstalling the pan, that really helped align the pan until a few bolts were in place. Very messy job but glad I now know what was in the bottom end, in my case, very little, am blessed with a clean engine. I just hope my gasket/seals don't leak, don't want a redo! Five quarts of Walmart's 10W-30 detergent oil is now in the sump---Wix oil filter mount and bypass filter is on the way from Rock Auto.
  12. Yes, you have some aviation background. We appreciate your service...enjoy retirement.....and your P15!
  13. Update; Below is the oil pan from the P15, very clean with only a thin layer of sludge in the very bottom of the pan. The bottom end of the engine is likewise clean and appears much as I would expect from an engine that has been running modern oil. I'll be refilling with multigrade detergent oil....and probably a bypass filter.
  14. Joe, are you in aviation? One of your posts in another thread looks like that may be the case. I've been building aircraft for nearly thirty years, here are a couple: The RV-6 The Fokker D.VII My brother in Florence is also a pilot and flies a Cessna. Just to keep this P15 related, I found the broken-off tip of the dipstick in the oil pan, no telling how long it had been there. It has now been rejoined with the surviving portion of the stick.
  15. Done. Do the side gaskets get trimmed up against the end gaskets? There're still a little long now overlapping the excess end gaskets.
  16. Joe, Walmart's finest is what I put in the car when I returned it to the road. I'm going back again with detergent since the engine looks so clean. The bearing cap I took off looks really good along with the crank journal. The cam and bottom of the cylinder bores are nice--the 43K on the odometer may be actual unless the engine has been rebuilt. I'm in Athens 45 miles east of your family.....and my brother.
  17. After being prompted by the previous thread about bypass filters and types of oil, I pulled the oil pan on the '48 P15 to replace the gasket, the lower crank seal, and see what sort of mayhem resided in the bottom of the pan. Not sure how the gasket and seal replacement will go, but the interior of the pan was a pleasant discovery. I have no idea what kind of oil has been the in the car for the past few decades but the pan looked just like what I would expect to see in a well-maintained car that has been running modern detergent oil. Connoisseurs of Fine Oils, please inspect this photo and offer your advice as to whether or not this engine is good to go with detergent oil: The only sludge is a thin layer (1/32") in the very bottom of the pan. The remainder of the pan and the engine bottom end look clean. The engine presently has no oil filter but I will probably add a bypass filter. Also, after pulling the clutch cover I found a gasket that I didn't expect to see: Is this standard or something someone added along the way? Thanks in advance for comments.
  18. A beautiful summer evening in a small town in the South.....there is only one proper way to fetch a chocolate dipped cone......
  19. This puller made quick work of pulling the drums on my P15.
  20. Excellent. I ran across the 24755 but the site I was using didn't provide enough specs to determine what it would fit. Thanks for the info, now I need to decide whether or not to install an original-style filter or an after-market spin-on setup....or remain filterless. By the way, there are four Wix filters, all bypass type, that will fit the 24755 mount, each just varies in length: 51050, 51051, 51320, and 51704. As of this writing all the filters and the mount are in stock at Rock Auto.
  21. Ok.....found a ton of remote oil filter adapters......but where did you find one with 5/8" nipple threads for the Wix and NAPA filters mentioned above? What I'm finding are 3/4" and 13/16" filter threads. Maybe an adapter stud like this?
  22. You guys with the spin-on filters, do you pre-fill the filter prior to installation? Lots of great info here, thanks!
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