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Sam Buchanan

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Posts posted by Sam Buchanan


  1. 18 minutes ago, greg g said:

    So now all I gotta do is wait for the two O RIELYS there building to open. I'll give Napa a go. Although the last time I went I stood at the counter for 45 seconds while the employee excersized his thumbs on his cell phone, he didn't even look up as l went out the door.

     

    My parts book says I need 2 each 302's and one each of 303 and 305.  That seems to match the numbers Yukon put up.  Hopefully there is a crossover in the Napa book.

     

    Rock Auto can have you a set of four for about $35 in 3-4 days.......

     

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1948,p15+deluxe,3.6l+218cid+l6,1486874,steering,tie+rod+end,7428


  2. After getting the transmission leaks fixed I put GL-5 oil back in it. No, that is not old-school GL-1 but the bottle said "recommended for manual transmissions". However, I've had a persistent crunchy 2nd gear shift going either up or down until the transmission got hot, then 2nd would shift smoothly. I even resurrected my long-forgotten double-clutch technique.  :)

     

    In the course of researching alternate oil I read up on Redline MT90. It is less "slippery" which promotes good synchronizer operation but I saw where it is recommended for high performance use with a hot transmission. For street use Redline recommends their MTL (GL-4) which is supposed to work even when cold. It has very low sulfer content so it plays nicely with brass synchronizers.

     

    The "crunchies" are gone, even with a cold transmission. Second slides into gear very smoothly going up or down. The only downside to the Redline is the price, a little precious at nearly $20/qt. But I consider it a fine value to get a smooth-shifting transmission. I haven't used GL-1, it may work as well, but wanted to let folks know the MTL seems to be a good option for addressing notchy shifts.

     

    transmission-17.jpg.ecc660b32ea7e937017cfb9533f2a12b.jpg

     


  3. That is a beautiful ride! At least you don't need to worry about paint and interior work.  :)

     

    Might be best if you post on the Truck Forum side of this site, here it is:

     

    http://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/

     

    As has been suggested, you will need to clean everything thoroughly so you can get a better idea of the location of the leak. Few of us ever achieve a totally leak-free flathead, lots of ancient seal technology in these vehicles.  :)

     


  4. Well....you've got the '48 to the point now where you don't have to work on it all the time, it's ready to go for the occasional spur-of-the-moment drive while you finish up the '58. Might oughta take down that classified ad before somebody wants to look at it......you will need something to drive to the cruises while your bride is driving the '58........   :)


  5. 10 minutes ago, Cannuck said:

    Hi Sam 

    I was under the dash trying to locate the dash light bulb as mine is also dim .Be damed if I could locate it .

    I am sure its accessible without too much trouble  any help would be appreciated .

    My car is a D 25 same dash as aP15.

     

    Two bulbs, one on each side of the speedometer.


  6. The engine instruments in my P15 have been fairly well lit but the speedo was extremely dark. The wiring diagram in the service manual shows a "speedometer light" but the only dash lights (beside key and high-beam lights) in my car are two bulbs located near the engine gauges. I checked and someone had already installed #63 bulbs which are brighter than the #51 bulbs normally installed.

     

    The following post from a thread last year got my attention:

     

    http://p15-d24.com/topic/47422-bright-dash-lights/?tab=comments#comment-503267

     

    This poster found some specialty 6v bulbs that were designed for use in microscopes. They are 7 candle-power instead of the 63"s 3 candle-power. I decided to try them and the results are impressive. Not only is the speedo very visible but I actually found  the feature where the speedo numbers change colors!

     

    dash-lights-1.jpg.564587030d286f6894ae93bda7c8cd7f.jpg

     

     

    Please excuse the blurry photo made while underway:

     

    dash-lights-2.jpg.dc3ffb87a8cb2bf39f76199cad0f1655.jpg

     

    Here is where I bought the bulbs:

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

     

    I really like 'em!   :)

     

    In case someone asks....I've already hot-wired the dash light switch located at the bottom of the dash....the bulbs are getting full voltage.

     

     


  7. 29 minutes ago, JSabah said:

    Do you know of any online videos of this? I’m having trouble picturing it. 

     

    You are wanting to install the chrome strips on the side of the fenders, right? I think greg g is describing a method of forming beading between fender and body.

     

    Or maybe I'm just confused....again.....


  8. 40 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

     

    Greg,

    Your current wiring bypasses the ammeter, which isn't a big deal, but I tend to use the ammeter to check that my brake light switch is working. After having a few failed switches I will often check that my switch is working before starting up my truck. With the key off I will step on the brake pedal. If the ammeter needle moves towards the negative side I know that I am sending current to the lights. No ammeter movements means it's time to dig out my spare switch...

     

    I agree. I had a bad connection at the switch for a few days and didn't catch it until after an evening drive while pulling into the shop. I now watch the ammeter to verify the brake lights are actually working.

     

    I suppose the argument could be make that if all the connections are well-maintained we shouldn't have failures.....but we are working with 70+ year-old cars.....   :)


  9. 9 hours ago, dpollo said:

     

    A digital image of this would be great but it is possibly still protected by copyright.

     

    If it is still protected by copyright it has been violated by posting on the inter-web without permission....  ;)

     

    But I suspect the copyright has expired.


  10. 46 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

    Another Question: Did anyone else think there should have been an outer seal on this shaft between the cup and the brake assembly plate?  not sure that metal ring on the brake plate qualifies as a seal.

     

    Illustration from the service manual showing the seal in the brake backing plate:

     

    rear-axle-seal.jpg.c52ed813d2d9b5c022a20a4455bf61aa.jpg


  11. 4 minutes ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

    So is the YF carter carb a direct bolt on for the intake manifold on a 218? What about the linkage, fabricate or?  And choke hook up?  Looks interesting. 

     

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