davesrus

Lloyd, Wow! That looks like some nice work. Let me just say that I hope I don’t have to do that much on my car. So my first question is does your voltage converter work with positive ground? If those two black wires are not isolated from each other (inside the converter) then your load would have to be isolated from ground. I should back up and ask if your vehicle is still positive ground; mine is. Also, is the converter case grounded? Or more to the point, is the converter “-“ grounded to the case? For my wipers, I have a working linkage but I just need a more reliable motion source. I could use a 6V or 12V motor and connect it’s motion to what’s already there. For my 12V converter, really what I need is 14V. I will be Using the converter to keep a small 12V battery charged and then run my other stuff from that. So my last question is about your converter. Does it always output 12V or is it doubling the input? Silly question since it’s labeled as 6-11V input, but I have to ask. Thanks Dave

That might be exactly what I’m looking for. Do you have a link, vendor name or anything? I’m trying keep most of my -6V original but upgrade lights and radio to 12V and add a wiper motor.

Here's another option. This battery is 6v and 12v. http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/accessories.html

I just bought this for my car. It looks exactly like the seal you show in the pictures but it's for a 1941 which doesn't have the lip pointing down on the edge of the trunk lid. The edge of my trunk lid is flat. It seems odd that the same profile of rubber would be used on two very differently shaped lids. I've been trying to figure out how the seal is installed and I think it would work if I installed it like you show in your first picture. The top point of the rubber would press against the bottom of the lid. Can someone who is following this can verify that? Thanks, Dave