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About bvilletrack

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge Power Wagon


  • Location
    Boonville, IN
  • Interests
    restoration of old military vehicles

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  1. Dave Cirillo (DC Truck Parts) was the guy that got me fixed up. He's helped me in the past and has always been a good guy to work with. FYI, I ended up using ARP pressure plate bolts for a small block Chevy. The only problem was that I had to buy 6 at a time. DW
  2. Yep, the first thing I did was to check for flatness using a machinist bar. Checked both directions on the block and the head. Everything is within spec. Trying to figure out what when wrong continues to be a challenge.
  3. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good quality head gasket? I'm in the process of replacing a blown head gasket on a 265. The old head gasket was a Fel-Pro with one side copper and the other fiber. I did use copper spray sealer on the copper side and left the "blue" side dry. But after a short time of use the copper side seems to have separated from the fiber and allowed coolant to leak into the space between Cylinder 1 and 2. Trying to figure out if I got a defective Fel-Pro gasket and if I would be better off using a double-sided copper gasket such as Best Gasket 510C. Thoughts? Thanks, DW
  4. Does anyone have a modern day part number or cross-reference for the pressure plate bolts? Thanks, DW
  5. Looks like the 1630050/1630051/1630052 part numbers cross-reference to Melling 494/S266/S265. Has anyone used Melling timing gear/chain products on their engine? Thanks, DW Here's a little updated information: The Melling 494 timing chain crosses to CC1946957.
  6. I have a flywheel off of a 265 flathead that's leaving me puzzled. The flywheel has the standard 6-bolt pattern for the 10" clutch, but the pattern for the 11" clutch is 8-bolt. The only 11" pressure plates I've seen are 6-bolt. Here's a little more info: 146 tooth ring gear, 8-bolt crank. What flywheel do I have? Thanks, DW Just a quick follow-up. The 11", 8-bolt pressure plate was used on 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ton Dodge trucks from 1941-1960. The pressure plates are still available. DW
  7. Pulled the water distribution tube out yesterday. It came out easy with two pulls on the slide hammer. It's a brass tube with no corrosion or pitting, but I did find two pieces of what appear to be old water pump impeller constricting flow to the no. 6 cylinder. I'll get it cleaned up and reinstalled. No doubt that has contributed to the problem. Dale
  8. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
  9. Inspecting the heat distribution tube sounds like a good idea to me. Is there an easy way to remove the tube from the block?
  10. Adam, You must have one of those high compression Hemis. 11:1? I've started to hear bad stuff about Pertronix. I have one on a 1943 White Superpower, but am not quite ready to start the engine up. Let me ask you a rebuild question. VPW recommended using plumbers pipe dope on head bolt threads on flathead engines to seal the water jacket, which I used. But when I took the bolts out to remove the head, it seems that the pipe dope deteriorated quite a bit even to the point where a couple of them started to seep. At the moment I'm thinking No.2 Permatex or Aviation Permatex might be a better option. Do you have a preference? Dale
  11. Adam, I wanted to look a little more period correct so I ended up using the "round coil" instead of the one built into the distributor cap. I purchased the coil from Landon when I got the distributor, its a Standard Ignition Coil (40kv I think) and seems to work well with the HEI distributor. Yes, I have the vacuum advanced plumbed directly to intake manifold. Dale
  12. Block is flat, but head is out 0.007" (at the machine shop now). As far as a heat cycle goes... what I've done in the past is to run the engine at 1000-1200 rpm for about 30 minutes. Is there a better method? I'm using Landon's HEI distributor with full port vacuum. I have the initial timing set at 4BTDC (vacuum disconnected). Although Landon's spec sheet indicated 10-12 BTDC I am a little hesitant to go that much, but I can experiment a little. Thanks, Dale
  13. No i did not re-torque the head, which may be a significant error on my part. I have a Stant TR-101 radiator cap (4 lb), so I don't think I have a lot of pressure. Additional info, looking at the spark plug tips they have a nice chocolate color so I don't think the engine is running lean.
  14. I recently swapped out a 230 for a newly rebuilt 265. Only have about 100 miles on the engine and it blew a head gasket. So I'm in the process of figuring out what happen and thought I would start by asking if the engine was running too hot. Here's a little data: The 265 has the internal by-pass coolant system while the 230 had the external by-pass. The installation was a lot easier to use the old 230 thermostat housing and heater lines, etc. I believe I read on the forum that it was okay to use the external components on an engine with an internal set-up. If this is not the case I assume that the internal "holes" in the block could be plugged. The thermostat that I'm using is a NAPA no. 155 (180 deg). Engine warms up to 180 deg and idles just fine without any increase in temp. However, at cruising speeds the temp increase to about 200F or slightly higher. What should be the normal coolant temperature for the engine? As far as I know the coolant distribution tube in the block was not replaced. How often do these disintegrate? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. DW
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