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CO54

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Everything posted by CO54

  1. Hard lines are in to the flex lines, with the exception of rear axle lines to calipers. Ran out of fittings, gotta have something for tomorrow. Used the bad MC I got for mock up, will get the good one bench bled and installed to check for leaks at fittings. It's not perfect, but neither was the original lines. This Copper/Nickel stuff is so much easier to work with than Stainless too. Thanks. Eric
  2. Got the torch out and played, actually happy I made a mess today. Old one still won't budge past the points shown before. After replacement arrives, I'll look into the service options for original part removed. Replacement will be here next week. Just trying to stay ahead of the list. Tomorrow and Sunday will consist of hard line from MC to flex lines. The rear calipers, flex lines, rotors, pads etc, all arrived today. More pics to follow. Thanks. Eric
  3. Replacement ordered. Haven't had chance to play with torch yet. Things went sideways with kids and first week of school. Gotta love having one in HS, and one in MS...... Wouldn't change it though.
  4. That is a good solution, and the serviceability option down the road isn't a bad point either. Thanks.
  5. Thanks. Located replacement if needed. 25655 - DRAG LINK (rareparts.com)
  6. Do you have a contact or website? I looked through the Vendor Listing Post and couldn't find it in there.
  7. Don't have an O-A torch, but I'll give the MAP gas bottle a shot tonight after work. Will also be grabbing some ATF or MM Oil to soak in after some heat.
  8. The side with full 360 movement takes a good bit of pressure to move by hand when mounted in the vice. The side that's locked up, feels like a mechanical failure inside, it won't move more than 60 degrees on one side only, can't get to center. Don't want to force it, but feels like a broken spring or something else is going on inside. Can't see inside the zerk fitting hole for anything, but a small flat head will go all the way to other side of the casted part. It appears that there is a cap on the "flat" side that could be removed for servicing. Just weary of removing it, and never getting that back on correctly.
  9. I posted this in my build page, but decided to open a new topic to see about getting as much input as possible. Yesterday, I decided to degrease and clean up some parts for the frame. Hit a SNAG after cleaning up the steering linkage that comes off the pitman arm of gear box to left drag link. After cleaning, I started moving ball joints around to verify smooth operation before new grease. The ball joint with nut on it, was locked up and only has limited movement. The other side will move freely without the center mounting point moving at all. The side with nut is locked up with minimum movement from side to side, and the center shaft will spin freely regardless of location. My question, is there a service that can be done to salvage? PLEASE HELP!!!!!! I know this part is made of unobtanium! I did remove the zerk fitting and soak in carb cleaner for about 10 hours, still no change in amount of movement. Even after the black nasty old grease slime came running out from zerk hole.
  10. Starting new thread for steering link ball joint issue. However I got some pictures of the shocks and brake flex lines. Yes, I know I need to do some weeding in the rocks, just been too hot.
  11. Thanks for the input! I'm going to pull the zerk fitting and soak it in carb cleaner for a few hours. See what we have then. Good chance it's some nasty grease, hopefully not a mechanical issue inside. The service manual doesn't have anything on this part at all.
  12. New challenge today!!! I did some practice flaring for brake lines, and decided to degrease and clean up some parts for the frame. Hit a SNAG after cleaning up the steering linkage that comes off the pitman arm of gear box to left drag link then connects to right side for steering. After cleaning, I started moving ball joints around to verify smooth operation before new grease. The ball joint with nut on it, was locked up and only has limited movement. The other side will move freely without the center mounting point moving at all. The side with nut is locked up with minimum movement from side to side, and the center shaft will spin freely regardless of location. My question, is there a service that can be done to salvage? PLEASE HELP!!!!!! I know this part is made of unobtanium! I know we have a gang of smart folks here, please help with this new development, so I can move forward with confidence. Thank You! Eric
  13. No pics this time, been a busy Anniversary week. Took the week off, for time with the wife, time with the kids, and working on the truck. Got on horse for the first time in my life for a 2 hour ride. Had a great time and felt it the next day. Got the front rotors cleaned up, calipers installed, and all flex lines installed. Mounted the bad outta box MC I ordered "bad clip on the cover? so I can start bending brake lines. Still waiting on the rear rotors, pads, and calipers, but the hard lines can get done once the rear flex lines show up.
  14. Thanks. Found some bumpers that look like could easily be modified to work, also found the J-nuts needed for the transmission cover.
  15. I saw that too, it's a good possibility.
  16. Haha, just noticed that my grumpy old guy Shitzu Rascoe photobombed a cab pic.
  17. Some updates, been too hot at times to really get work done on the truck. The downfall of living at 6500' and getting 300 days of clear skies and sunshine a year. Fortunately the 8x12, 4 sided awning will be delivered soon. Got the rear axle installed, still gotta get the u-bolts and spring mounts aligned properly and torqued. Started working on the cab with cleaning, prepping and a quick rattle can primer for protection. Still more to do on the cab, but progress. Got the MC adapter plate from Brad for a perfect fit. Did the test fit and it's going to be perfect. THANKS BRAD!!! I know there will be some color scheme comments, but I decided to do the firewall black at this time, because I've already got the inner fenders painted black. Things are moving though, still collecting parts for the rear axle brakes. Got shocks ordered yesterday after seeing they dropped in price on Amazon from 35 per to 24 per too. Just gotta keep pushing along, also slowly been getting parts to get the engine up and running on a test stand to make sure that's 100%.
  18. I lived in Denver for 20 years in the late 90's, looking back I didn't care for Denver as much as Colorado Springs. COS was a small town feel when I moved here 17 years ago, but has continued to grow from all the Military bases expanding.
  19. I know I'm not considered part of the "Posse" in any photos. Side note though, CO isn't a bad stopping point between CA, WI, and MN......
  20. When I stripped my block down and pulled my freeze plugs, I had it on the engine stand flushing with the hose, and pressure washer at every entry point I could hit. Rotated to different angles, and saw more crud come flowing out. After finally getting the water tube out, I took it off the engine stand and stood on front and back with spacers under it and continued the flush process. Ultimately, I think I flushed it 8-10 times before crud stopped coming out and water was semi clear.
  21. When I pulled my front fenders and all components apart, I found what at one point was probably rubber body welting between the cowl and fenders. That was the only place I ran into anything other than metal on metal contact. Fortunately mine was an Arizona truck so I didn't run into anything but light surface rust/patina in there.
  22. My wife and I watch "Forged in Fire" regularly on the History Channel. The episode from last week had, from what I can tell a 54-56 Dodge 5 Window truck in the finalist shop. It was the "Forged in Fear" episode. Just thought it was a great thing to see. The guy in finals was Jordan from NC if memory is right. Does anyone else watch the show, and catch it? Thanks. Eric
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