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CO54

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Everything posted by CO54

  1. It's possible that it's melted rubber, but my '54 had the same tar like stuff on the fenders. No trace of a solid chunk of rubber anywhere.
  2. Ken, My running boards are in perfect condition. They are currently loosely installed on the truck frame for storage purposes. I'll try getting them pulled this weekend and getting some pics for you. It's dark by the time I get home from work.
  3. The picture prior to the puddle on the floor shows the door lead repair in the upright position, I turned it hinge side down to let gravity do the work as it melted. The dent repair there really isn't to bad. It's the rust that has my concerns, especially in such tight clearance, complex corners etc.
  4. Well, I'm still hoping for some input on the rust repairs that are needed. Fortunately, a day off with the MAP gas torch took almost 10#'s of lead off the door. Will be much lighter with a bondo fill instead, after further cleaning and prep is done. scratch marks are from the torch and paint scraper pulling more off.
  5. Well, it's been a hot minute since I've updated this build thread. Here's some updates, the steering box rebuild went well, after the teardown and cleaning it went back together without any more binding. Got it all painted and set aside for the time being. Since, then I started moving onto body panels 1 by 1. Cleaning surface rust and repairing large dents after talking with kids n wifey about what they'd like for the finished product, and they agreed to leave any pits from rust or minor dents to stay as long as there's no structural integrity issues. Keeps the character and farm truck history even when it's repainted. We're not after a show truck, just a truck to enjoy. As for body panels completed so far. The inner fender wells have been cleaned, primed and painted black (not original, I know) for a black engine compartment overall. The floor repairs to cab have been completed, the underside of the cab has been primed and sealed with a spray on truck bed liner. The front outer fenders, 3 hood sections, and grill have been cleaned and had major dents repaired to be primed for protection and storage. Everything with the exception of the cab is getting stored indoors after getting primed with rattle can heavy rusty red primer, all parts will get a rough sand and epoxy primer before paint to ensure total sealing. I've finally hit my 1st worse than thought issue. The driver side door. I've only started cleaning up the outside and this is what I found hidden under that patina, and an old school body filler. It's clear that I have some rust to cut out and replace with new steel, and that's a point of input that's needed given the locations and my limited skills on intricate body work. The second is the extra weight with the old school "lead bodywork repair", do I torch the lead off and see what's under it and possibly do the repair with bondo? Looking for some input and suggestions. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to read all my rambling and provide feedback. Eric Gonna try to get the pics to upload/link properly.....
  6. Think I found my binding spot today! 2 of the 3 seals arrived and are installed in the main housing. While doing a dry fit with partial seals installed I found this part binding. Suspect a spot of old grease/dirt in there. The darn part I didn't want take apart now, needs tore down for cleaning and inspection. I did end up getting an O-ring (kinda fits) from Napa for the bottom part, and ordering gasket maker to cut another grease seal prior to installation. Still have some concerns with the pitting on the worm gear, but definitely less now what I've verified the binding is coming from. The corn grease arrived too, once I get this bugger marked and tore down, we'll go from there. Thanks. Eric
  7. Don't have any JB Weld, but do have the POR-15 Epoxy Putty. Thinking about mixing up a really tiny batch to fill the void and then sand down to as smooth as possible. Will be holding on this until I get the daily driver back up and running. That's today's project.... I appreciate the input, and conversation. I'll post with updates as I get into it. Thanks again. Eric
  8. Opened up steering gear box yesterday after getting some confidence from DrFate77, and a few others that post regularly with an abundance of knowledge. Prior to opening up, I noticed a rough spot at about 2 turns from a lock to lock of 5 turns. Soaked some parts overnight in cleaner, and sprayed the rest down with brake clean today. Found some pitting on the worm gear, but it's not rough or hanging a finger nail or micro fiber cloth. Should I be concerned??? Looking for insight. Truth be told, not wanting to have the ordeal or expense that Bkahler went through on his build with another country. Replacement seals for the housing already ordered along with the corn grease, will probably be looking for a universal O-ring for the last seal needed. Thanks. Eric Thanks again. Eric
  9. Well, I'll try getting some better pics, I did a test for 24 hours with my gear box and gear oil to verify a leak from the worm gear cover. I put the shaft at same angle as when mounted in the truck and filled with 90W gear oil (thinner than corn grease), no leaks. Continued checking and found a rough spot in the rotation at about 2 turns on one direction, when it goes 5 turns on lock to lock. Will be pulling it apart to inspect and see what's going on. Thanks for your pics and short write up on this style box. I'll do the same on my thread. Eric
  10. When you pulled the lower plate off with the horn wiring tube/outlet did you find an oil seal, or O-ring in there? The parts explosion of the gear box shows an "oil seal" on that tube. My casting #'s are: Gemmer, 2 88, 3DC03.
  11. My 54 C-1-C had a steel thermostat neck that was rusted out. As you mentioned in your t-stat thread, my truck doesn't have a heater either. It was just a straight neck coming out of the head.
  12. Replacement arrived earlier this week, perfect match, just had to use correct size grease zerk fittings.
  13. On a '54 the brake drums are different between the B Series and C Series. The B series has a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern, not sure on drum size. The C Series has a 5 x 5 bolt pattern with a 11' drum.
  14. The long elbow, almost looks like a "farmer fix" possibly the only thing laying around to fix a possible leak? They didn't bother cutting it down, just put it in and called it good.
  15. Are you talking about the 3rd hole in my '54 4 speed with my flippy and tape measure in the pic?
  16. Kinda resembles my 4 speed from my '54. Here's some reference pics? Yes, it's in storage right now....... This is the casting # on my Transmission case. C88221 (6-16-53) This is the casting # on the shifter housing. C-89989 (7-24-53) Hope this helps, let me know if you want more pics or measurements. Eric
  17. Parts arrived, last line is in. Happy with how it turned out. Do I need to worry about this joint on the front coming into the engine compartment? Thanks. Eric
  18. I used the brake fitting/line for the Grand Cherokee axle to keep the axle vent in place. It worked out nicely being a good length and easy fit to the original location.
  19. Ran out of 3/8 x 24 IFF fittings, more arrive today for the last line. Cleaned out the local parts store yesterday, and didn't feel like driving all over town.
  20. Watching for the response on this, cuz it's good information for a used engine purchase or a rebuild...... Sorry, and thanks, Bill..... Eric
  21. Well, I cleaned out the local parts store. They had 1 fitting I needed, and wasn't in the mood to drive all over town. Got the long line on rear axle installed, and ordered a 12 pack of fittings from Amazon, we'll see about the next day shipping since I have tomorrow off. Once the last hard line is bent and installed, I'm thinking about using the bad MC that's currently installed to try bleeding and checking for leaks prior to final MC install. Yes, I know I'll have to bleed the lines twice, but would rather get any leaks addressed now, than down the road. Input on my method of madness? The bad MC has a bad spring clip for lid retention, that's what makes it bad btw. Thanks, Eric
  22. I'm using a pressure switch into the MC on opposite side of the front line. Has clearance from the frame and the rear line.
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