Jump to content

captden29

Members
  • Posts

    689
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by captden29

  1. dumb question, but here goes. I ordered 3/16 brake line for my 54 Windsor. too small. do these cars use 1/4 brake line? also, I ordered copper and there are also nickel lines. are either acceptable? easy bending is a must. I have a good flairnig tool. thanks. capt den
  2. glad you like yours, dodge. one confusing thing is that the unit has 4 bleeder valves and nothing in my manual about a bleeding process. maybe just do one at a time in any order? or will it come bench bled from the rebuilder. my car has power steering, so power brakes would be a nice addition. capt den
  3. the power brake booster on my 54 Windsor was bypassed when I go the car. covid 19 has given me the time to remove it and contact a rebuilder., power brake exchange. I am not sure if I really should put it back in or leave the brakes manual. it looks like a very complicated unit and can that old technology be trusted. are there other companies that can rebuild this unit? I have made a lot of calls and most will not do this unit. should I be wary and just forget about having power brakes? thanks, capt den
  4. just fine for a survivor or every day driver. capt den
  5. where do you get an electric water pump? my engine gets very hot in city traffic and I think that the water flow at idle at the stop lites is so little that more water flow would be a great help. capt den
  6. I had a 49 chev. step van, looked so much like that dodge. it was my hippie van . had a bed and a stereo[ 8 track], need I say more. capt den
  7. on my 54 Windsor the wires for the top motor run under the door sill on the driver side. then there is a hole in the raised part of the floor that the front edge of the seat rests on, and after passing thru that on to the relay. the system is hydraulic. capt den
  8. I will try the H4 bulb. however, the car is 6 volt, so is the bulb on the H4 also replaceable with a 6 volt bulb? capt den
  9. one of mine went out. I have seen in the past that you can put a new part in these lites but keep the bullseye front. is there a video for this? where would I find that? capt den
  10. did not think they could easily be adjusted. the shop manual procedure looks difficult, but I will read it again. will also look at motors. thanks for the advice. I was also thinking of calling junkyards, as most cars in there were not put there for a bad regulator. I do not think any shop today has the ability to do anything as all the old timers and old equipment are gone. capt den
  11. I went to the trouble of taking pictures of 2 swan neck mirrors that a fellow member might want. I posted on the regular forum as that is where his post was asking about mirrors. I should have put this on the classified but it was not really something I was trying to sell. I did ask a price but a very cheap one to help him out and get them out of my garage. I was just trying to locate him an the site, but I was deleted. I will not try to help out again.i just needed to know who he was. lesson learned. capt den
  12. Los, need a regulator? I know I have at least one extra. let me know. capt den
  13. quick replies. thank you. I will look in the manual for a way to adjust the regulator to about 7.2v. I thought 7.65 was still in line with normal,but if the regulator is adjustable I will try that. I am tired of wiping the battery dry all the time. I went to a car display yesterday in downtown Wilmington, nc. riverfest, mostly vendors, music, food. never had so much interest in my car. seems more people are liking an original car with patina. it seems to remind them more of their parents and grandparents cars than others. nice to talk to people and hear the memories. thanks for the voltage advice. capt den
  14. my battery is always spitting water out the caps. I thought it was overcharging. reading at idle is 6.74 v across batt., and at fast idle is 7.65. these seem to me to be correct.. is this just normal for these cars. it is a 265 in my 54 Windsor, all original. batt. about 2 years old, but has always done this. should I be worried? always keeps a charge. capt den
  15. I got my carpet for a 54 Windsor conv. at jc whitney. took a little tweaking to fit it, but looks good. capt den
  16. first car, first mopar, 1950 dodge meadowbrook. hand me down from grandfather,mother,brother,then me. drove it with no first or reverse, but it was all I had. eventually got a 54 new Yorker, and today I have a 54 Windsor convertible. many cars in between. the 50 had a $19.95 earl shieb paint job that would fall off in clumps. slowest car I ever owned, but it had a big back seat. capt den
  17. I am trying to remove the door latch on my 54 Windsor convertible. this is the one in the door with the star wheel. looks to me like this was installed at the factory before any other items went into the door. I still have to remove the door lock, not sure how to do that. also, looks like the window has to come out. this is the most intricate and difficult job I have ever tackled and I still do not know for sure how to get it done. the manual has a relatively easy method for the 4 door, but the convertible cannot go that way. capt den
  18. I have filmstrip and record. I will have to dig them out , I think they are 54 Chrysler. will donate to a worthy cause. dennis
  19. I use conventional 10-30, whatever is on sale. I tried synthetic, but the engine used more oil with it. capt den
  20. I have always been afraid to drop the pan on my 54 Windsor. thought it was a difficult job. car has 78,000 miles and I would like to get any gunk out. the car always runs to the hot side and I am told from this site that the gunk can hold unwanted heat. other than removing all the bolts that hold it on, any other procedures? gasket should be easy to get. any material better than others? gasket cement or not? thanks, capt den
  21. thanks doug/deb. after I hand tighten them together and bolt them to the block, is that when I torque it all up? the last time I did this on a different flathead I did not separate them. easy back on that way. capt den
  22. I am getting ready to put them back on. do I need any gasket cement? I think not, but I am unsure. I separated them, so they need to go together again. was able to leave the heat riser in free flow position. no amount of heat and penetrating oil will get it to turn freely.anyway, the spring broke and the flap is welded to the rod. this was a big job because of all the cleaning and scraping 65 years worth of crud. thanks, capt den
  23. I removed the int/exh manifold from my 54 Windsor spitfire. came off easy enough. the bottom of the exh manifold has what the manual calls a shield. what does it shield? the nut holding mine on is rusted and I stopped trying to get it off. I am trying to separate the manifolds to get the heat riser free and working again. my exhaust manifold gaskets were breaking up which is why I did this in the first place. there were 4 gaskets under the carb. 2 are still good. that should be enough. not sure if I need new ones. capt den
  24. a motors manual will help to get that info. 265 was in passenger cars, Chrysler and desoto in 53 and 54. not sure where they were used after that,maybe trucks and military. the 265 is a 25" block. others are 23" block. these are not cheap anymore. I have a 54 Windsor that has the 265.strong runner and easy to work on. others on this site can give more info on identifying engines. not sure how well it will fit the desoto airflow you want. good luck, capt den
  25. correction to my last post. the parade arrives in Shallotte at around 12:15. capt den
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use