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About captden29

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/05/1949

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    wilmington nc
  • My Project Cars
    1954 Chrysler convertible

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm married, 68 years old, and have found the car of my dreams.
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Mastic Beach, New York (on Long Island)
  • Interests
    My hobbies include my 1954 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Convertible and fishing.

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  1. I use conventional 10-30, whatever is on sale. I tried synthetic, but the engine used more oil with it. capt den
  2. I have always been afraid to drop the pan on my 54 Windsor. thought it was a difficult job. car has 78,000 miles and I would like to get any gunk out. the car always runs to the hot side and I am told from this site that the gunk can hold unwanted heat. other than removing all the bolts that hold it on, any other procedures? gasket should be easy to get. any material better than others? gasket cement or not? thanks, capt den
  3. thanks doug/deb. after I hand tighten them together and bolt them to the block, is that when I torque it all up? the last time I did this on a different flathead I did not separate them. easy back on that way. capt den
  4. I am getting ready to put them back on. do I need any gasket cement? I think not, but I am unsure. I separated them, so they need to go together again. was able to leave the heat riser in free flow position. no amount of heat and penetrating oil will get it to turn freely.anyway, the spring broke and the flap is welded to the rod. this was a big job because of all the cleaning and scraping 65 years worth of crud. thanks, capt den
  5. I removed the int/exh manifold from my 54 Windsor spitfire. came off easy enough. the bottom of the exh manifold has what the manual calls a shield. what does it shield? the nut holding mine on is rusted and I stopped trying to get it off. I am trying to separate the manifolds to get the heat riser free and working again. my exhaust manifold gaskets were breaking up which is why I did this in the first place. there were 4 gaskets under the carb. 2 are still good. that should be enough. not sure if I need new ones. capt den
  6. a motors manual will help to get that info. 265 was in passenger cars, Chrysler and desoto in 53 and 54. not sure where they were used after that,maybe trucks and military. the 265 is a 25" block. others are 23" block. these are not cheap anymore. I have a 54 Windsor that has the 265.strong runner and easy to work on. others on this site can give more info on identifying engines. not sure how well it will fit the desoto airflow you want. good luck, capt den
  7. correction to my last post. the parade arrives in Shallotte at around 12:15. capt den
  8. thanks for all the replies. I will look for old adaptors and probably have some. I checked the voltage on the batt. at 1200 rpm, it is 7.5 v.at idle it is 6.5v. I think that is ok. don't know why I always have a little water trickling out the caps. I set the timing back about two degrees and it does start a little easier. next move will be a trickle charger. tomorrow I will be in a parade, but it moves faster than most, so all should be ok. it is a law enforcement appreciation parade, starting at the battleship in Wilmington,NC,and ending in Shallotte. moves on hwy. 17 at a 45mph clip with a police escort. very enjoyable event. anyone in the area with a classic car truck or motorcycle can join in, no entry fee. leaves at 11:00 am,arrives at shallote about 1:15 at jeromes restaurant. only open to us and the officers for lunch. hope to see you there. I may need a jump. capt den
  9. I may have an overcharge as there is always water coming out of the caps. if I run it about 1200 rpm, what voltage should I have across the batt. terminals? my guess is around 7.2. will try tomorrow. thanks for the batt. advice. I agree with the trickle charge, but should it be left on all the time or only on occasion? the batt in the car reads about 6.4 volts with the car not running. thanks, capt den
  10. my computer skills are bad. tried to look up old threads on buying a new battery, which ones may be better. I need a group 2 for my 54 Chrysler with a 265. I have bought from batteries plus in the past but do not have good luck with their product. the one in the car had to be replaced under the warranty 2 to 3 years ago, and is now getting weak. maybe I should just go up the street to advance . I know there are more expensive ones like optima, but not sure if I should spend the money. many are made overseas, poor quality. seems like we are stuck these days and have nowhere to turn. capt den
  11. 10w 30, detergent conventional.i have been around the dial using different oils. now i buy whatever is on sale. were the weights rated differently in 1946? maybe a 20w was thinner or thicker. capt den
  12. DON' T try this with a powerflite. that tranny has a pump in the rear of the tranny that will pump when you tow it in neutral or not. that is why you can push start a car with that tranny. capt den
  13. there are a few that ar54e inside, but they are not that far up and a little searching will find them. capt den
  14. any 23 inch block. i think up to 1952 in passenger cars. capt den
  15. mike, dorman makes a plug that you do not have to dimple. it goes in the blocke and it has a nut yo tighten and it expands the plug into the hole. a little sealant and you are done. part # 568-010. great for when the block is in the car and you have no room to swing a hammer. they have been in my car now for 2 years, no leaks.blowout resist to 300 PSI. 1 5/8 diameter. about $5.00 each at any auto parts store. capt den
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