grea235

No problem!

You are very welcome.

Unfortunately, I didn't install a kickdown switch yet. I have one wired in, but it is not on the throttle linkage, so I can't help with that piece.

Sorry for the delay. If no one has gotten back to you, I took pictures of mine. It's an R10. The first picture is the bracket that bolts under the solenoid. Sorry for the upside down picture. The second shows the lever locked in, the third shows it locked out. I hope this helps.

Flywheel runout was fine. Had my neighbor come over and look at the discs. He a contractor/mechanic fir the military. Has worked on more vehicles that I can list. He didn't like the disc wobble. We looked at the original disc and it has life left in it and we decided to put it in and see what happens. I'll return the new one. It will be awhile before I get the OD part to test it. I appreciate everyone's help!

True. I checked when it was in the car and it was ok. I'll check it again. It's easier now that it's out. Thank you.

Thank you for posting. It's in first and second. It's a moderate shudder. The clutch and pressure plate have been in for at least 200 miles and hasn't gotten any better or worse. Way more pronounced when starting up a hill than downhill.

It feels like uneven engagement for sure. The flywheel was resurfaced after the clutch change and it has a could spots on it. I've been trying to make incremental changes when I have the transmission out to troubleshoot overdrive issues. You are correct in how much play can you have. I will do more research on that. The original clutch has some wear left. I could put it back in along with the bell housing shim and see what happens. But I have the overdrive out to replace a part so I may just send it in to get rebuilt just like sniper suggested. I'll also double check the pressure plate. I'll report back, but it will be awile. Thank you for your advice. I appreciate it.

It only occurs when letting off the clutch. Once it's engaged it's fine. No vibration when driving. If I keep the rpms down and dump the clutch there's no shudder. The more I rev the motor and slip the clutch the more shudder, especially going up hill. No vibration in neutral and reving the motor. As far as I know clutch discs should slide on without play. The original disc has no play.

Thank you! I appreciate it!

Thank you for responding. Yes, I've seen their address in posts. I'll try to find a place around here, then Tennessee.

While the motor was out on my 1952 Plymouth Concord, I saw that the clutch disc was worn, so I replaced it. It was a 9 1/8 disc with a Borg and Beck 9 1/4 pressure plate and the disc fit onto the transmission splines with no wobble. I replaced it with a 9 1/8 disc, but it had a about an 1/8 wobble side to side. Not knowing any different, I installed it and then had some clutch shudder. The faster you rev, the more chatter you get. There was a lot wrong on the car before so I can't say for certain that it had clutch shudder originally because of bad motor mounts, bad shackles, etc. Motor was changed out and does not have a rear main seal leak and has new motor mounts, not hard ones, new leaf springs and shackles, new u-joint driveshaft, etc, pilot bearing is ok, flywheel has been resurfaced and it still has clutch shudder. I pulled the transmission and motor to do some other work and to check the bellhousing face. I found that the bellhousing needed to be shimmed at the top right about .008 of an inch. I checked the pressure plate with a press and didn't find any variance. Thinking the 1/8 wobble is contributing to the clutch shudder, I ordered a 9 1/4 inch disc from a vendor and received a 9 1/8 inch disc and it has the same wobble. It's not the transmission input shaft because the original disc fits with no wobble. I'll be calling on Monday and returning it, but I would like to know if anyone has gotten a 9 1/4 from any vendor and if it fit ok. Also, is a 9 1/8 disc appropriate for a 9 1/4 pressure plate? If I can't get a good fitting pressure plate I will have to get the old one rebuilt. Any information or advice would be appreciated.

I used bobclassicauto for my 52 glass. It matched the old glass just fine. It was 400 something for all but the back window. The local shop wanted 235 just for one door window. I don't recall how long it took for them to get it to me.

For gears in the front, I used ebay. For OD parts, I used vanpeltsales.com for a 12v solenoid and the big 4inch snap ring. They list parts as Ford, but some fit the plymouths. A couple days ago I called and ordered a balk ring/gear. They are used, but he said they are cleaned, inspected and tightened. I'm pulling my R10 soon to replace the balk ring so we'll see. For $45, I'll take the risk on condition and fit.

What a coincidence. I'm currently putting an overdrive together and swapping in a better brake band. When I tighten the lower guide bolt/screw, the band twists forward and drags. It looks like there's too much of a gap betwen the band and the mount. I was going to weld in a shim, but I think I will try a bend over shim like it shows. Thank you very much for posting this!!