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Quest Master

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  • My Project Cars
    1941 Plymouth P12

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    United States
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    Old cars

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  1. I'm going to go back to the one thing I changed - the spark plugs (no I didn't not keep the old ones). This car ran previously just fine. What spark plugs are you using and what gap did you set on them at? I have a 1941 P12 with a P20 engine.
  2. Yes, agree on all of that. Air, fuel and spark. That is why I am quite frustrated. All I did was replace the spark plugs (well and rebuild the starter, generator and re-paint the whole car - but that is unrelated) The carb has been dry for over a year and was always run from a gas can to the fuel pump (unknown Gas tank condition - hadn't gotten to it yet). For recent test starting, I've just used a spray of starting fluid or a little gas down the carb barrel.
  3. OK...here are all of the steps I just did: #1 - put a rod in #6 cylinder hole and a pencil on the intake lifter of #1 cylinder spark plug hole. Turned crank, #6 (rod) came up, #1 pencil went down, stopped at DC on the pully. #2 - purchased a "OEMTools In-line ignition spark plug tester" (Auto-zone $8). Put it in between the plug wire and plug of #1 cylinder. Loosened distributor bolt. Turned ignition key, rotated distributor until light came on. Repeated several times to make sure. Stopped when light came on. Tightened down distributor bolt. #3 - put In-line tester on all plug wires, turned engine by had with starter. All six light up. #4 - Put everything back together, add gas, ignition key turned, rotate engine with starter. Nothing. #5 - brought back to DC on pully, flipped distibutor 180, repeated step #2, repeated step #4. Nothing. No start. (And yes, if I ground a plug directly to the battery there is a spark, just in case no one reads back to my previous posts). Thank you again for the assistance.
  4. What tester are you referring to? Looking at the Home Depot website, everything starts at $8 and I do not see anything for 6v. Now, I understand that coming out of the coil the voltage is much higher, but it also says AC and not DC. I will go to Home Depot right now and buy whatever I need to, just tell me. Thank you everyone for your help.
  5. Oh....and I want to add another point about the oil pump (in 70'ish years it had to be replaced), and this is for other readers - because I've now read a lot of similar threads...even if it was indexed wrong, it rides on the cam, and is keyed to only fit the distributor two ways (180 degrees each way). So let's say it was pointed/keyed at 5 and 10 o'clock - those are still your TDC for #1 and #6 and as long as you use the TDC for the distributor at those points/areas, you're still good (not paying attention to the 7 o'clock in the manual). Correct?
  6. Thank you for the feedback! So for my 1941 P12 with a P20 engine, the #1 cylinder - the valve directly under the spark plug hole is the intake valve. I put a pencil on it, rotate the engine - when the valve closes, I look at the pully and rotate it the remaining way to DC - which is now the compression stroke (#1 cylinder is all the way up at TDC), #1 spark plug (7 o'clock position on distributor) is ready to fire. Distributor rotor is set directly at that position. Key turned, clutch in, gas in carb, choke closed, rotate starter - nothing. I got a couple of minor coughs. Rotated distributor a little each way - nothing changed. Pulled a plug and grounded to battery (again) to verify spark - rotated engine, it is present. I am felling really frustrated. It previously ran. How much fuel should be at the be at the bottom of the intake manifold - barely wet with gas or a visible puddle. Should the rotor be exactly under the point of the distributor cap or slightly before? Now I'm taking wild guesses what could be wrong because everything seems correct.
  7. I have flipped the distributor 180 now several times at TDC, just as a sanity check. My next step is to remove the manifold to see if somehow there is something caught in there (critter, I don't know). I also re-gapped the plugs to .038 (just in case, I saw that larger gap somewhere else) Open to any other suggestions.
  8. I'm also going to add, because it took me a bunch of threads to find this, the pully nut (to hand turn) requires a 1 13/16" socket (3/4 drive) reduced to 1/2" drive - because a 3/4" extension bar will NOT fit through the grill and under the radiator, only 1/2" will.
  9. OK...took some time. Read other threads. Worked on other projects and decided to work on the 41 Plymouth P13 again. It has a P20 engine. Here is where I am with trouble-shooting (it ran before I started any of this). TDC: Main pully pointed/centered over DC mark. Put rod in #6 cylinder hole, rotated by hand to verify TDC (it is). Put pencil in #1 spark plug hole (spark plug out, ignition off, board pressing clutch in) pushed down on starter, electrically rotated engine - felt #1 intake valve open and close (hand on a pencil sitting on top of the valve), then hand moved pully to TDC (which is actually BDC for #1 cylinder, with intake valve just closing). Rotated by hand another full rotation to bring #1 cylinder to TDC (compression stroke), set distributor to fire on #1 (about 7 o'clock position), oil pump index shouldn't matter (didn't replace it anyway). New (same plugs) gapped at .035....gave it a squirt of gas, closed choke, turned ignition key, engaged starter....nothing. Will not run. Spark plugs are firing when they are out and grounded to the battery (just as a check - and no they are not smushed from being too long - an earlier comment above). I've got spark, fuel and air. Is my distributor still off somehow? All I replaced were the spark plugs. Everything else is the same when it was previously running before I pulled the distibutor.
  10. Restoring my 1941 P12, I decided to remove and clean the distributor and replace the plugs. It has never run again. Here are the facts: I have a 1941 Plymouth P12 with a P20 engine. Here is where I am with TDC: - On the crank pulley, I have the pointer exactly on top of the DC (dead center) letters, with IIII10 on either side. - I have the inspection bolt on the head over #6 cylinder, with a rod in it - it is all the way up. At TDC: #1 and #6, both pistons are up, one compression and one exhaust. By removing the spark plugs you can partially see the valve tops. #1 is closed #6 is open - so I am on TDC for #1 compression. I set my distibutor to fire on #1, with the order being 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 clockwise rotation. No start. - The new plugs are Champion J12YC, set to .035 gap. Positive battery ground. When I ground a plug to the positive on the battery - I get spark during rotation. So, what am I doing wrong? Wrong plugs,? Gap? I am using gas in the carb. Ignition key is turned....so what is the problem?
  11. I have a 1941 Plymouth P12 with a Chrysler Autolite MZ-4089 Starter. I believe the armature has now gone bad. I have tested it with a Fluke Meter and I have connectivity between the Commutator Bar and the Armature shaft, which indicates a short inside of the armature if I read the testing procedures correctly. Where can I buy a new starter armature? I called Andy Bernbaum, who suggested this forum. He said the part number for this part is Autolite Armature MZ-2108. Is that correct?
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