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HotRodTractor

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HotRodTractor last won the day on April 10

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About HotRodTractor

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    Member, been hanging around a while...

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cable Ohio
  • Interests
    Things with 4 wheels
  • My Project Cars
    1948 P-15
    1948 1-1/2T
    1949 B2B
    1950 B2C

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  • Biography
    Farmer, Engineer, Maker, Overlord of the Universe
  • Occupation
    I make stuff - some digital - some physical, all real

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  • Location
    The Alps of Champaign County Ohio
  • Interests
    Antique Trucks, tractors, anythign with wheels.

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  1. It appears that I have definitely short changed my dwell. I set the initial advance at 2 degrees and now realize that I have neglected to ask Don what he was running it at. I figured that was a safe spot to start and get a feel for it.
  2. I thought I did it correctly when I cleaned the points last fall - but its certainly worth a double check. I'll put that at the top of the list of things to do when I get back home. On Edit: That isn't how I set the dwell. I blocked the secondary and set the primary, then I simply adjusted the secondary to get the total dwell. 26 degrees of dwell on the primary set and I think I set it 34 degrees total.
  3. I can't say. I don't know. I do know that I had it happen before the electric pump, but I shrugged it off at the time. The car takes a bit to start when cold, when just warmed up it will start no problem, when heat soaked... it takes a bit. Its not insurmountable, and I haven't been stuck anywhere with the hood popped waiting on it to cool down.
  4. After doing some poking around it appears that phenolic carb spacers that should work on these carbs are readily available for some other brands. Most notably available for Chevy inlines. 2-15/16 stud spacing, 1.7" bore, and available at least in 1/4" and 1/2" varieties off the shelf, probably more if I look harder. I need to double check a couple of things to see if I can get away with 1/2" without a lot of fuss with the linkage - but that will have to wait until I am back home. Off to Michigan tomorrow, then to the Carolinas later in the week. It seems like this should be an easy test - I might even borrow the thermal imaging camera..... drive it around and get it good and warm under the hood. Pop the hood and take a thermal image immediately before shutting it off. Take a thermal image say every 5 minutes for 20 or 30 minutes making sure just to pop the hood long enough to image. Repeat the same test with the spacers installed.
  5. Great list - with many interesting discussion topics - but I have one question. If going to all that trouble with electric fans, electric water pump, etc... why use a belt driven power steering pump with a remote canister? Electric power steering pumps are getting to be more common and could further help clean up your engine belt drive system. Simply tuck it away out of sight and route the lines as you see fit. Anyway just some food for thought.
  6. I'll certainly test the coil next time it happens. I didn't really give that a thought as it seemed to me that it was fuel starvation related.
  7. Correct. I haven't really found any silver bullet to the problem. At the end of the day its heat soak. Heat soak in the carbs, heat soak in the fuel line, heat soak in the fuel pump. I suspect that the slant 6 with the longer intake runners probably helps dissipate just enough heat that it isn't an issue. Pure speculation though. In any case - a little bit of cranking and it fire and cleared her throat. Maybe 4 or 5 10 second bursts. More than I would have liked, but if its the carbs themselves getting heat soaked - it shouldn't take too much air going through them to cool them off enough. The only other quicker way that would be easier on the started would be a little alternative fuel being either sprayed or dumped down the carbs. I'm not really about that.... so I'll monitor it and make a decision as I get more experience with this exact issue. It might just be what it is. Granted I have not checked the fuel pressure - but this acted a lot more like a vapor lock than a flood situation. I've always had to choke this engine to get it to fire, both before and after the electric fuel pump. In fact I ended up choking it more than I thought I should have to get it to fire when it was heat soaked. Once fired it was great. I've had the electric fuel on the car for several days at this point, yesterday was just the first time I really went out and leaned on it to make sure everything was good. In fact I've had the carb tops off twice now to make sure the electric pump wasn't overpowering the float and causing issues.
  8. Yeah - I'm not surprised at hard starts when hot - I've had more than a few vintage engines that didn't care for hot restarts. I also didn't buy a turn key car. It was never advertised as such. Long road trips are totally on the list of things this car can do now. Take anything and have it sit for a while and things will deteriorate some. I'm happy with my purchase, and I hope that the seller is happy as well.
  9. Man... I certainly don't need any more projects...... but a Desoto convertible would make me smile........ especially at that price. I see the guy backed out, but I would have been all over that like white on rice.
  10. Fuel system is good to go. Tank seems to hold gas now,, electric pusher pump installed and operational. I do have to fix a bad clamp on the fuel filler neck, but that is minor and a rather quick fix, I just didn't have time Sunday evening after I discovered it. I found that I have a slight coolant leak - lower radiator hose seems to have a bad seal at on end. Going to get a new hose and new clamps so that can be crossed off. Its doesn't appear to be a huge leak, but I did have a slightly damp floor under the front of the car after I returned it to the shop from beating on it hard to see what shakes loose. I spent some time trying to figure out what I needed for my speedometer. The drive and driven gears to run the cable are quite a complex mess the more I dug into it. I ordered a new driven gear that should get me close IF it works. Apparently there are at least 3 different diameters of drive gears combined with different tooth counts. I figure the new driven gear has about a 25% chance of working. lol It was $6 added onto an order I was already making. If it doesn't - then I will have to pull the tailshaft housing and swap out the drive gear and combine that with a new driven gear and I will be in business. Rough calculation says the speedometer is running about 20% too high. I took the car out Sunday to run a couple of errands and put it through her paces. It performed well, although it did have a bit of a time firing back up after I stopped to pick up some last minute items at the grocery store Sunday evening. I took her up to about 80 on a secret test track in Mexico. Everything worked well. I was concerned that the electric fuel pump I installed was actually going to be borderline too small at WOT, but it appeared to keep up just fine from a SOTP perspective. I'll make sure and have a pressure gauge installed to confirm, but for right now - I'm happy.
  11. I had a 1950 Lincoln Cosmopolitan that was still 6V with an electric pusher pump on it feeding the mechanical. It worked real well. Make sure you get a pump that doesn't have too much outlet pressure, otherwise you will have to have a regulator to dial the pressure back so you don't overpower the float in the carb. I also just installed a 12V electric fuel pump on my 1948 Plymouth, setup the same way as you are desiring. I've put about 50 miles on it with no issues so far.
  12. Crankshaft and rods are different between the two displacements, everything else is more or less the same. I can't really help you on the C54 number, except to postulate that it is about a 1954 Chrysler. Only way to know for sure the displacement is to measure the stroke of the engine using the plug over top the #6 piston.
  13. I had a 53 Pilothouse in high school (graduated in 2000) - being a poor broke high school farm kid - I repaired the swiss cheese bottom of that tank with JB Weld circa 1997. I sold that truck in 2011 and the patch was still holding. Like most things - I've found the secret to using it being good clean metal and a bit of a scratched up surface to the epoxy to latch onto. I can't say that I will have that kind of luck with this repair - but if it lasts me until next winter, I'll be content. I simply want to drive and enjoy the car as much as possible now that better weather is upon us.
  14. It's a good thing it rains..... It currently resides on a dirt/gravel road. Lol
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