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HotRodTractor last won the day on April 10

HotRodTractor had the most liked content!

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About HotRodTractor

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Cable Ohio
  • Interests
    Things with 4 wheels
  • My Project Cars
    1948 P-15
    1948 1-1/2T
    1949 B2B
    1950 B2C

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Farmer, Engineer, Maker, Overlord of the Universe
  • Occupation
    I make stuff - some digital - some physical, all real


  • Location
    The Alps of Champaign County Ohio
  • Interests
    Antique Trucks, tractors, anythign with wheels.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,174 profile views
  1. JB Weld eh? I was thinking some kind of sealer... but wasn't quite going to make the jump to JB Weld. Maybe I should. I was thinking of using a variant of green Loctite. I don't recall the number off the top of my head, but I spec'd it out for an application at work and it will seal a 0.015" gap if need be once cured. (It might be 680??? - I'd have to look it back up again to be sure)
  2. OK - long story made short: I put a new freeze plug in and it still has a small coolant dribble right at the bottom - just enough to make the area under the plug damp after bouncing around town for an hour or so. I'm going to leave it until this winter when I can pull the engine and do it correctly out on a stand. It was actually kind of pain even on this "easy to access" location. Also: if you use brass plugs - the cast iron corrodes. If you use zinc plated plugs - the zinc corrodes, but not nearly as bad or as fast as they are much closer together in the galvanic series. I could give an exact ratio... but I'm mathed out for the week. I've got a road trip up I-71 tomorrow with the Plymouth. I'm hoping it doesn't rain too badly.... Going up to visit the GF's family.
  3. I believe that to be correct without going through threads and pictures.
  4. Flipping quickly through the books I have - I think 1957 was the first year power steering was optional equipment. I wouldn't swear to it, but its the first year I can find it listed as optional equipment ($112 too! ).
  5. I feel like I just read somewhere that someone was sending Champion an old radiator to get the outlet made correctly. In any case the aluminum radiator works well in my P15 - I didn't install it, but I think it is a Champion. If I dig through Don's threads I'm sure the info is hiding in there (or his Photobucket).
  6. Here is another vote for no aluminum. Go with Nickel Copper. Easy to cut and bend, and holds up a lot better.
  7. This is the "correct way" if you go the OEM route.
  8. "Correct wiring" with modifications can sometimes be a matter of opinion. Many things are wired as you describe from the OEM. I know my car is currently wired the same as you describe, but I honestly have never looked at how it was from the factory. To put it into a different perspective - on the truck side there is a mechanical lever that engages the starter motor - you can easily push that with your foot and turn the engine over without ever flipping the key on.
  9. That's all in the eye of the beholder. You or I might call it inventory, but many/most other people would call it junk. Its only valuable when needed.
  10. Click here for a direct link to the show flyer. Looks like a cool show to attend.
  11. Horn wiring. Goes to the button in the center of your steering wheel.
  12. Well I hope you all are happy. I had to go into storage to pull out some light reading. Just shy of 1400 pages of fun.
  13. I hope he sells a ton of them at that price. That will make all my junk more valuable. lol
  14. Its a tab at the top of the page - there is a ton of information in all of the categories. If you drill down through the DEPTCA section you'll come to this: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/blueprints/index.htm
  15. I'd have to look up the charts again, but I thought brass was more likely to corrode than zinc in this instance. Could be wrong and remembering incorrectly.
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