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Cold Blue

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About Cold Blue

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe

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  • Biography
    Shade Tree mechanic; love motorcycles too. Tennessee native.
  • Occupation
    Retired architect

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  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Golf, motorcycles, old cars

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  1. Cold Blue

    Heater Core & Control Valve Access ‘53

    Will do - Thanks Keithb7.
  2. Cold Blue

    Heater Core & Control Valve Access ‘53

    Hey Keithb7 - I am going to rebuild the tube radio in my 48 Plymouth too. First I am going to replace all the paper capacitors. Then install a 12 volt to 6 volt power reducer. (My car has been converted to a 12 volt system). I am hoping that is all it needs to speak again. Would you kindly tell me if I am headed down the right path? Thanks in advance.
  3. Cold Blue

    48 Plymouth radio

    Working on the radio to get it operational. Made the decision to fix it myself. To me, that's the fun of these vintage cars! Did a lot of on-line research to school myself on how to bring the radio back from the dead. The first step is to replace all the paper capacitors. After 70 years, they dry out and no longer function as designed. Suprisingly, the tubes probably don't need replacing. All info says because they are sealed units, they generally don't bite the dust. The mechanical parts of the radio appear to work fine; just need some light lubing and adjusting. I can't wait to hear the radio work for the fist time in probably forever! I am keeping the original dash speaker too if i can. Will let everyone know how this turns out. Best regards, Blue. And by the way, my research says that the Motorola CR8 radio was installed by the factory as an "aftermarket" unit. I guess that having the Motorola nameplate on it, and not "Plymouth" is why it's labeled "aftermarket". Just seems funny to me....
  4. Cold Blue

    tie rods

    The tie rods in my '48 P15 are dead straight. I think they should all be straight, but I don't have first hand knowledge about a '41 P12. Seems to me that a bent rod would make setting the toe-in difficult. ..And I can think of no reason for a bend in a tie rod to be designed that way from the factory. Just my two cents worth.
  5. Cold Blue

    48 Plymouth radio

    Thank you Dodgeb4ya! That works! I would have never figured that out. And thanks for the receiver and speaker installation diagram. I think I could have figured the wiring out, but it sure helps to have a diagram.
  6. Cold Blue

    48 Plymouth radio

    No silver caps on the buttons. No small dials. Buttons are solid black plastic. Pull off a button and there is just a flat metal rod that the button presses onto.
  7. Cold Blue

    48 Plymouth radio

    Pulled the radio out of my 48 Club Coupe. My car has been converted to 12 volts. The radio wires to power had been cut. I want to get it working. It is a Motorola CR8 , with the vertical push buttons. Question: for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to set the push buttons. They don't pull out to set like other radios I had in the 60's. The tuner knob will work when you push the "M" or manual button. Anybody know? Thanks!
  8. Cold Blue

    Something missing at hood latch

    Eneto - I fixed my latch today. Went to the hardware store and found a torsion spring that would fit around the pin, with some room to spare. Took my Dremel tool and cut the end off the pin rivet so I could remove it. There was no way I could keep it and put the torsion spring on. I used a small bolt with a screw driver slot in the head so it looked rounded like the rivet, and used a Nylok nut so the nut wouldn't come off. Clamped the plate in my vice, inserted the bolt a little, compressed the spring with my pliers, and pushed the bolt thru, and put the nut on. Used my Dremel to cut off the excess spring that was sticking out past the plate and the latch. Looks great, works great! Here is a pic...
  9. Cold Blue

    Tie Rod ends

    Bobby - I did not do a total rebuild on my steering box. I did remove the cross shaft, cleaned the box thoroughly, installed a new bottom oil seal, and inspected everything I could to try to verify the steering box's condition without doing a total disassembly. I followed my shop manual to get it adjusted correctly. I did not remove the worm gear and it's parts because I don't have a lift. As I understand it, the worm gear is connected to the steering shaft which goes to the steering wheel. The steering box and shaft must be removed as one. So that means having the car up in the air high enough to pull the 6 foot long (I'm guessing..) steering shaft out the bottom of the car. I can document what I did, step by step, if that is what you would like for me to do ...Regards, Blue.
  10. Cold Blue

    Something missing at hood latch

    Good ideas Eneto. They're called snap rings. I wrench on motorcycles too, and they are used a lot on motorcycles.
  11. Cold Blue

    Something missing at hood latch

    Thanks guys! I see how it works now. It's a torsion spring that wraps around the pin. Unfortunately, the pin is a rivet; the torsion spring wraps around it. So it looks like I will have to cut the rivet out and install a small bolt with a nylock nut on it to be able to install the torsion spring.
  12. Cold Blue

    Something missing at hood latch

    My hood latch has a spring, or something, missing. It works, but just flops around when the hood is open. In the picture, the striker is not installed; I am working on it to get the hood closure properly adjusted. Would someone post a pic, or something to show me the spring or whatever is missing at the latch and how it installs? Thanks so much!
  13. Cold Blue

    Shim at bell housing

    Well shoot...I FINALLY got the pan installed that covers the flywheel/clutch and it turns out that you don't have to remove the bracket braces! The pan is notched at those braces so it clears. And the felt gasket on the pan goes BEHIND and snugs up against the half circle projection of the oil pan. I found two things that might help others install a pan on a 218 3 speed in the future. 1) bend the circular part of the pan at the corners in slightly to help it get by the oil pan projection; 2) grind the front corners of the pan off slightly so they don't hang on the rear rubber motor mounts. I fooled around with that aggravating pan for a solid hour trying to get it fitted until I did the above. If fell right into place when I did those simple mods.
  14. Cold Blue

    Tie Rod ends

    I have taken another look at the dent where the pitman arm "caressed" the oil pan. I'll be doggoned if it doesn't look like that dent was put there from the factory. It is nice and smooth, with no creasing or anything that would indicate that the pitman arm travel had forced the dent to occur...And the oil pan is really thick metal - I don't think you could ham-fist the steering wheel to the point of knocking that dent into the pan. Just my two-cents worth...Blue.
  15. Cold Blue

    Shim at bell housing

    Thanks Dodgeb4 - I will do that. Shims as required to fill in the gap so I don't bend the bracket.
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