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Cold Blue

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About Cold Blue

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe

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  • Biography
    Shade Tree mechanic; love motorcycles too. Tennessee native.
  • Occupation
    Retired architect


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  • Interests
    Golf, motorcycles, old cars

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  1. My 48 P15's spare tire is mounted by a circular plate (looks like a tiny hub cap) as shown in the attached picture. My P15 came with this way of mounting the spare when I bought it. I believe the spare is the original (or close to it) Goodyear Super Cushion. I don't know if this is the way it came from the factory, but it sure looks like it. I would love to have an original P15 jack, but they appear to be scarce as hen's teeth. I don't have a clue how the jack mounted originally. Hope this helps some...
  2. Thanks Dodge. I think I will go with the carpet jute. By the way, how did you attach it to the vertical surface to hold it in place? Some 3M weatherstripping adhesive?
  3. I have new kick panels for my 48. The originals were shot. There was no backing behind the old kick panels; was there supposed to be some kind of backing under them originally? If there should be something behind them, what does everyone put behind them now? Some of that stick-on foil-faced sound deadener? Recommendations/advice appreciated!!
  4. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Sounds to me like it performs as designed, it doesn't leak, and it is original. I would leave well enough alone.
  5. I just got my original fuel gauge to work properly. I had the two sender wires reversed, and the first time I turned on the ignition to check the gauge, it went to the "Full" mark. I knew it was about empty, so I reversed the sender wires and "Viola" it registered correctly!
  6. I had no idea that automatic tranny fluid was oil based. I wondered why there were so many types - it turns out that the majority of the upgrades to fluids came about because of improvements in oil refining. Nice video!
  7. Thanks Ken. I think I understand how the wiring should be connected. My problem is that whoever wired the car for 12v previously, did not match the wire color to the original wiring color. To make things worse, duplicate wire colors were used. So tracing a pink wire from the voltage reg when another pink wire is wire tied right next to it in the same wire bundle...along with a bunch of other wires...and they bypassed the ampmeter gauge altogether....so sorting out this mess will take some detective work, if you know what I mean...And some wires start out as green, then they are spliced with a red wire somewhere along the way, so the terminus is red, not green. Yikes!!! Careful, Will Robinson...
  8. Joe - I am using a 12v system. I think I can figure it out if I take my time and trace the wires. If I feel that I am unsure of it, I will probably take it to someone who does car wiring. That may be a tall order, as electrical car repairs, especially for a 48 Plymouth, is not a common thing. I am hopeful I will be able to figure it out....
  9. Cool! That makes perfect sense. I now think I know what I have to do to connect the amp gauge. Taint gonna be easy..Thanks so much Joe for explaining this to me!!
  10. If you look at my photo of the gauge you see two wires coming off the right post; the wires are original to the car, and the 6v system. I thought that a black wire meant ground, so I used a sharpie to label the posts. I guess I am wrong in doing that, if your assumption of no ground is correct...
  11. Thanks Joe! I was successful in downloading the diagram off of this site. Thanks for your help!
  12. I downloaded the schematic - I think I see that the ignition switch feeds the fuel gauge, the coil, the signal flasher, and the amp gauge. The amp gauge feeds the main lighting switch, the voltage regulator, and the horn relay. The amp gauge was bypassed when the new wiring harness was installed, and I am in no way competent enough to rearrange wires to be just like the wiring diagram....Everything works now, and I am going to leave well enough alone. It looks to me if I just run a wire from the ignition switch to the amp gauge, and a good ground to it also, I should be in business...whatta ya think? (one thing that is puzzling me - when I took the old wires off the amp gauge, there were two ground wires..I don't think the wiring diagram shows two?)
  13. So run a wire from the battery hot post to the ampmeter? Right now, the meter does not feed the ignition switch or anything else. The old wires were just cut about 2" away from the gauge. I only know basic stuff about auto electrical systems. Could you hold this amateur by the hand and tell me where to connect wires to make the gauge work, Plymouthy?
  14. I've got my ampmeter gauge out of the car to remove the old wires that had been cut when a previous owner converted the system to 12 volts. I know you can connect 12v to the gauge without problems. With the old wires cut, I cannot figure out how to connect new wires to the gauge from the new wiring harness. Looked in my service manual, and it looks like a hot wire comes from the voltage regulator? Or can I just connect a hot wire from anywhere? Maybe the ignition switch? Any help appreciated!!!
  15. My 48 Plymouth has clutch chatter. It has the original 218 six and 3 speed manuaI on the column. I do not think it is related to disc oil contamination, although it may be. Nor do I think it is due to disc overheating. I do have a small tranny leak at the front. I am suspecting that the rear engine mounts have gone south. Has anyone had clutch chatter problems due to the rear motor mounts being in poor condition? My car has a late model Chevy chunk and a replacement drive shaft. It runs super smooth at speed. Only when pulling out in first gear do I experience the clutch chatter. The clutch disc is a replacement remanufactured disc. I am thinking that the only way I can cure this is to remove the tranny, clutch, and pressure plate. Get the disc relined, have the pressure plate resurfaced, install all new tranny gaskets, and new throw-out bearing. And replace the rear motor mounts. Am I going down the right path? Any replies from anyone who has had this problem would be so appreciated.
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