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cturboaddict

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About cturboaddict

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth Sedan 4 Door

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Just a regular Joe/Jack of All.
  • Occupation
    Sr Project Manager Custom Fab Shop

Converted

  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    just a regular guy who tinkers

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  1. Mine is a 37 P4 Door Sedan Humpback, I'm assuming it's the "touring sedan".
  2. I'm searching for a new rear trunk lid for my 37 P4 Sedan Humpback. Will one from a 37 Desoto 4 door Humpback be the same?
  3. I love this thread bud! Showing me how to put together our 37 Plymouth. I'm sure I'll have weatherstripping questions here soon. I need to update where I am on my build thread too. Keep em coming!!
  4. Window crank mechanism is available at thisolecoupe.com for $425.
  5. Well, It's time to pull the doors and address the hinges. I've got some concerns and was hoping some of you guys could help. 1. What size Phillips is needed for the door hinge bolts? 2. Any tips to get them free without total anarchy? 3. Is there any replacement hinges our there? 4. Best place to get new pins if the hinges aren't available? 5. Looks like the door side of the hinge is riveted to the door??? Or are there internal nuts on the door side for the hinge? Any and all tips would be greatly appreciated. The doors have to be slammed currently to shut, and I'm hoping the disassembly/cleaning/painting/repair process can get them to close smoothly.
  6. I haven't updated photos in a bit. But currently. I have a Fatman Fabrications Front end installed (mustang ii type) with power steering rack. Ford Explorer rear end swap with new leaf springs. A 1999 5.3liter LS motor and 4l60e motor has been installed. Had to push the firewall back to get it all to fit. Aftermarket Summit steering column ties into the power steering rack. It'll have AC and powersteering, but the rest should be the same. Neaering pulling the body off of the frame to get the frame blasted/coated. LOVE YOUR 4 DOOR!!!!!!!!!
  7. I'm at 7/8" difference after they have sat and multiple jumping/bouncing sessions. When I pull the body, I'll give it a good overlook for squareness. But I may have to adjust the passenger side only to get it to set right. Oh well, all in the fun of restoration.
  8. No sir. They are correctly orientated.
  9. Received. But If by chance you could send me the whole thing, that would be great. I'll send you my email in PM.
  10. Shocks are not attached. Dont have the factory service manual. Shackles swing when bounced. It just returns to the higher height on the passenger side only.
  11. Yes, I checked the front. The front is level and everything checks out. Atleast from what I seen. I'm going to fine tooth comb it tomorrow and see really take a look at all of it.
  12. I just went back out there and started with basics. I checked all tire pressures, Drivers side front was really low. All tires at the correct pressure, and I jumped on the car with no shocks attached on either side. The passenger side is now only 1" higher than the drivers. And when jumping the shackles functioned as they should rotating when the springs were compressed/bounced on. So the shackle isn't binding. Does anyone have an accurate frame dimensioned drawing I can start inspecting with. I'm just not drawing to conclusion how this passenger side isn't at the same height. The only additional weight that I would have in the car on that side right now is a steering column. The gas tank is a bit offcenter by design, but I don't think an empty gas tank or the steering column is going to cause 1" variance in rear suspension only. The front suspension matches perfectly.
  13. The thing is, it was never this way until I pulled the original rear out of the car. Leaving the original leaf springs bolted in when I did it. Then shimmying the new rear in and bolting it in resulted in the variance. I've looked over the frame before, and never noticed any issues with anything. It's one of the reasons I specifically purchased this car. So, I went out just now and pulled a rough measurement of the front of the front bolt to the front of the rear bolt (to give me CL to CL of the leaf mounting holes in the frame). Drivers Side is 51 13/16", Passenger side is 51 15/16". I'm gonna chock up the 1/8" difference due to the vehicle being produced in 1937 and the standards weren't up to the same snuff that things are today in the terms of precision. (As I've discovered with other Frame measurements along this process.
  14. Alright, I'm in a bit of a pickle here guys. I can't seem to figure out what is going on here, and maybe you guys could provide some insight. I'm sure it's something silly, but I gotta reach out for this one. So, when I swapped rears, (I put an Explorer 8.8 disc in) the Passenger side of the car was all of a sudden much higher than the drivers. I couldn't get the factory springs to settle for anything. I can't remember exactly how much higher, but was something like 2"+ higher. The passenger side U bolt shackle wouldn't rotate further into it's angle to stretch the leaf spring flatter for the life of me (I tried Jacks, extra weight, jumping on it, prying it, beating it, NOTHING). I spoke to McVey's Springs (the springking on ebay), and we chummed it up to be bad leaf springs. So, I purchased a new set. I got new polyurethane bushing for the rear portion of the spring. Drilled out the threads and put the poly bushing in both the back of the leaf and in the body. Made some custom shackles (well, 2 sets because the first ones were too large with too big of a radii) similar to the other ones in this post. Got them all bolted up slowly today, not tightening anything until I could put weight on the car. And here I am with the SAME ISSUE. The passenger side of the car sits 1 1/2" higher than the drivers as seen in the photos below. Note the frame rail relationship to the top of tire. The passenger side shackle will not rotate any further with the spring attached. (Not the passenger side shackle photo and the drivers side behind it with much more angle). When I jack up on the drivers side, the shackle rotates, the spring get's flatter and the axle advances vertically into it's travel. The passenger side will get to a point of rotation (where it sits now) and essentially just beyond that rotation it will begin to lift the entire car off of the jack stand. I'm sort of lost right now trying to figure out what to look for. I was going to bring the port a power in from work and try to force the rotation of the shackle thinking it's binding somewhere, but I can't see where. It was doing the same thing with the original U bolt shackle. Regardless---- HELP, what do you guys think? Passenger Side Driver Side Drivers Side Shackle Angle Passenger Side Shackle Angle (Note angle of Drivers in background) Drivers Side Spring FLAT when jacked.
  15. Yup, that's the stuff. There was no "bead" on the outside (like the ones I see when searching), but that's to be seen for a car from 1937. Thankfully there was only minimal surface rust between the two surfaces, no wild corossion. I'm prepping for paint soon, so wanted to make sure it goes back together properly. Question, is the fender welting used on the front fenders as well? (Between the nose and the fender, and the cab and the fender?) Or anywhere else on the body?
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