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NickPick'sCrew

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About NickPick'sCrew

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth Deluxe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    NickPickToo's Dad
  • Occupation
    Finance Investments

Converted

  • Location
    Howell Mi
  • Interests
    Helping Son with Project

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  1. He also ran a 10:49 two mile this weekend (his personal best so far). So quite the weekend for Nicholas ๐Ÿ˜‰
  2. "... when I'm laid beneath that mossy ground, there'll be more friends around than leaves upon the ground." Thank you for your service gentlemen.
  3. NPT has a stubborn broken bolt that won't come out (tried everything short of cutting in out with a torch) including heating up and cooling down etc. Its an attachment point for the body to the frame, directly into the frame (picture below). It looks to be fastened into a jack nut (or another type of nutsert). Couple of questions: 1. innovative ideas for removing the bolt or nutsert altogether? 2. We are also considering just cutting the bolt flat to the frame and re-tapping the frame a few inches back with a new nutsert. Replacing that area of the floor pan anyway so we can just relocate the hole in the process. Advice on where to source a sufficiently large and strong jack nut etc.?
  4. These pictures shows a broken bolt just next to the second body to frame attachment bracket from the front. We found this bolt (and another just like it on the other side of the frame -- so one on the left and the right) hidden under a plate that was used to patch the floor. However, we can not find this attachment point (body straight to frame) anywhere in our technical manuals and it has us wondering. Are these aftermarket modifications made by a resto shop to make the body more secure to the frame given that the body mount brackets were so rusted out? Has anyone else seen these and if so have you found reference to them in the manuals?
  5. These pictures shows a broken bolt just next to the second body to frame attachment bracket from the front. We found this bolt (and another just like it on the other side of the frame -- so one on the left and the right) hidden under a plate that was used to patch the floor (we shared pictures earlier where we had to cut into the floor to remove the body. Nicholas had to cut off the heads of these two bolts to get them off and now we are about to extract the rest. However, we can not find this attachment point (body straight to frame) anywhere in our technical manuals and it has us wondering. Are these aftermarket modifications made by a resto shop to make the body more secure to the frame given that the body mount brackets were so rusted out? Has anyone else seen these and if so have you found reference to them in the manuals?
  6. Pictures or examples? As of now we think we are going to have to fabricate the braces. Do you know of any source otherwise?
  7. Frank. You were close, I was just down the road from the airbase. I was a diesel mech with 3rd FSG MTM most of my time in and then the 9th Eng during the first gulf war. We shared jokes with the guys on Futima (thus the flight line reference) I tried to use the muffler baring joke, but some wise guy went and created one for kicks. Yes, we road the buffers on field days. Also fondly remembered bull in the ring Navy vs. Marines on floats -- the sailors were smart enough to hold those on day two or three after port when we didn't have our sea legs -- of course we got killed.
  8. Not so bad, just dirty. Pad not quite to the rivets and no scaring on the pressure plate. We initially disconnected the full assembly with the flywheel because that was the most visibly clear path given all the gunk. There were no class two or three leaks around the seals that we noticed (trans or engine), but that could change when we get all the old coagulated grime cleaned up. It was a good day of learning for Nicholas (and me). The parts and service manuals were invaluable -- thanks to those who recommended.
  9. Yea, Im not a big fan of the look either. But Im not sure that it's you're or my opinion that counts here.
  10. Thanks for all your support gents. Nicholas really appreciates the encouragement. Nicholas has decided on a color that goes perfect with his favorite suit so he's all set ๐Ÿ˜œ
  11. There is a real budget and its fixed -- but think of it as paying for an education vs. getting the cheapest ride. Yes, we saw other cleaner cars, daily driver ready -- but he wouldn't have learned nearly as much nor would he have gained nearly as much self confidence in the process.
  12. Hi Dale, Thanks for the advice -- I plan on having Nick do the break conversion -- we are looking for every little way to save money, but not on safety items. I'm even making him modify some really old west cost style truck mirrors to help with blind spot issues -- he not happy with the aesthetics but he know I wouldn't fund it otherwise -- if he does it correctly he could take them off when he makes it to a show...
  13. Thanks Ken, Good to hear from you -- yes, cross country and marching band season slowed him up a bit, but he got a new shot of excitement when he saw his dash pieces back.
  14. Hi all, I'm NickPickToo's safety advisor๐Ÿ˜Š and financier ๐Ÿ˜ฉ. Im looking at this spear that is also called a steering shaft and wondering if anyone has thought through a modification (short of replacing the shaft and column altogether) that would allow the shaft to either fold or collapse on heavy impact. I don't work about the shaft penetrating the steering wheel and impaling the driver at normal speeds, but it certainly would stay stiff and pummel the driver if the seatbelt were to fail or if the front end were to collapse in. The frame is fairly strong and stiff and we are not modifying the drivetrain to go any faster than originally designed so this may just be a father worrying too much, but we do intend this to be a daily driver so if anyone has run into any such modification we are very curious. Thanks, Ben
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