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leadheavy52

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Everything posted by leadheavy52

  1. I followed their race from start to finish and they made a heck of a showing. I can say that with the exception of the more-developed areas, none of their trek looked easy. I am glad to see that their choice of Chrysler 6's famous reliability showed out. After watching their adventure, it has my boys and I curious about someday building our own P to P racer and attempting the long and oft difficult feat of simply finishing this endurance race. -Austin
  2. Sam, you’re the man! I will give this a go this weekend.
  3. Thanks, dpollo. Found this photo. I can easily recreate this, but how does this set the gap between the drum wall and shoe? I’ll respond to his thread for more info.
  4. Got her all done! Took some turning of the bolt whale whacking a not spun onto a few threads on the back. Got it out and all the new hardware back on. A little steel wool on the shaft of the bolt and some used motor oil made it a breeze to get back in the hole. Now the dreaded task of adjustment after replacing all the other three wheels and a good brake bleed. Thanks for the help!
  5. Thank you! I assumed it might be stuck from time and sitting. I didn’t want to go wailing on it with a hammer, but that might be the trick. I’ll see if I can turn the adjusting bolt from the front while smacking it from the back, with the castellated but reversed to not damage any threads.
  6. I am about to lose my mind trying to get this lower wheel cylinder off the front of my ‘52 Suburban. I have loosened every nut I can think of to get this damn thing to even budge. What am I missing? I have looked the FSM over and it does not indicate much of anything. Thank you in advance. - Austin
  7. Looking good! I love the two-tone dash colors. I agree with Plymouthy, two-tone the wheel to match. It would look super slick.
  8. Thank you! I will give this a go tomorrow. Bummer to have to remove the MC, but it’s likely due for a rebuild anyways.
  9. Does anyone have any insight into how I would go about removing the clutch pedal on my 1952 Suburban? I have unbolted the plate that holds the pedal assembly to the outer side of the frame and can slide it out a bit, but what stops is it the linkage hangar on the inner side of the frame. I have attached a picture where it is circled in red. I checked to see if there is a clip there that prevents it from coming off, but could not locate one in the years of road grime. I could probably get a better look at it if I removed the MC, but do not want to go that route until it become dire. I do have the FSM and could not find my answer there. Thanks, Austin
  10. This little thing ways a ton! Gotta figure out how to remove the tailpiece so I can use it with the OD trans. I know I will need to shorten my driveshaft (actually, the driveshaft that came on the vehicle, most likely from the '49 Dodge truck), but I don't know by how much yet. Fingers crossed this all goes back together as smoothly as it's come apart. -Austin
  11. And the old 4-speed truck transmission is out! DJ, I first removed the rear motor mount rubber, but it was not enough to clear the floor with the brake band on the transmission still. Easy, remove the brake band. No go! After removing all of the tensioning hardware, I was still unable to get it to budge, then realizing that even if I did, I would not have the clearance needed to get it free from the trans anyways. So, Plan B. I removed 7" of tunnel behind the transmission to get it to clear. Cut right up to the edge of the floor brace so welding the piece back in will be easy. I have to do a bit of floor replacement anyways, so it won't be much of a hassle on top of that. Long and short of it; the transmission is out.
  12. Managed to pull some parts off the Cranbrook to swap over to the Suburban. The nice thing about having a good solid parts car is it’s like finding one st the junkyard that no one else has access too. For reference too, especially for non-factory modifications, it can’t be beat. Today, I brought home: - Oil filter housing with hard lines (my existing one has rubber lines that are all shot to hell) - center grille (my existing one is crooked and dented. This one is nice and straight) - Plymouth hood script (much better condition than mine) -fuel filter (mind never had one installed) - front valance panel support (mind has gone awol somewhere in its history) - front fender trim pieces (a little straightening and they’ll be good as new) - twin-tone horn (to turn mine into twin-tone too!) Ill be back next week for some of the interior hits as well as prep for removing the floor. My three-legged dog is wondering why I have spent so much time in the garage lately. -Austin
  13. Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing! I will be tackling my brakes very soon. -Austin
  14. It’s a club coupe. Measured the Suburban at 41” and the Cranbrook at 40.5”. Close enough for me.
  15. What’s the best way to remove the rubber door sill mats in a ‘51 Cranbrook without destroying them? They are both in very good condition and I would like to transfer them to my ‘52 Suburban. Thanks in advance! -Austin
  16. Thanks for the advice on the rear cushions! I wasn't sure how to approach sliding the transmission back enough to clear the clutch, but that may give me enough room. I have a spare bell housing for a standard 3-speed from a '51 Cranbrook so hopefully that is what I will need to mate the trans to my engine. I am definitely leaving the top on to get that sucker out of there. I could use all the grip I can get. -Austin
  17. Finally had a good day to spend some time on old Betty Blue (I guess she named herself?). I even got my kids to help out. They're 7 and 10 and enjoy doing little bits of work here and there. My oldest got to use the impact wrench on the fuel tank strap bolts while I held the metal strap with a pair of pliers. He dug that. Anyways, I was able to drop the gas tank, then proceed to clean a giant pack-rat nest from inside. I had to stop midway through and clean out all the crap (literally) from the shopvac. I am excited though that the tank isn't beaten up or rusty. I should be able to get it back to gold with little effort. Anyone have any luck with the Eastwood products they sell for restoring gas tanks? I was happy to see that the spare tire well wasn't rust either, although all of the black rubber "caulk" is practically worthless after all of these years. I will need to go through the whole body to replace as much of this as I can. on my list was to drop the driveshaft in preparation to replace the old 4-speed truck transmission with a '52 overdrive unit. The driveshaft came off easily enough from the rear, and slid off the yoke at the front. I tried at first to remove it by removing the 4 nuts and bolts from the handbrake portion of the truck transmission, but it did not budge. Is the large nut with the cotter pin in the middle of the tailpiece the nut I should remove? I didn't want to work it too much under the car as I can focus better on it when the transmission is dropped and out of the car. My next project will be to drop the transmission and replace the floorboards, transmission tunnel and supports with that of a donor car. I should be able to also replace the inspection panel under the driver's feet as well. I have all the necessary shift linkage, shift arm and hardware as well. I am taking many pictures and documenting things as I go, but I am committed to finishing this project, one bolt at a time. There is very little body work to do (fortunately), but lots of stuff to remove and clean/paint/replace. I am hoping that by the end of the summer, I will have the chassis ready to roll and the body soon to follow. I appreciate all of the information and inspiration I have received from this site. I will undoubtedly have many more questions as we go along. -Austin
  18. Reminds me of the days when you could order a bunch of stuff like this from the J.C. Whitney catalog. Oh the cool stuff they would have in there.
  19. Thanks for the input. I do plan on keeping the wheels and after the insight here, will most likely keep the 4.78s. I’d like to be able to swing 65-70 on somewhat hilly highways (New Mexico). If I need to, I can always drop the Cranbrook rear in if I need a little extra gear. Thanks! -Austin
  20. I have all the bits and pieces to install my OD trans (R10-G1) and will be doing so in the next week or so. I did some research (fortunately) and it states that the Suburban, when ordered with the 18" wheels, would be geared at 4.78:1. Yikes! I have verified that mine was indeed ordered this way from the factory and would assume that the information from the '52 model section of Allpar (included a screenshot from their site) would be correct in the ratio. If I install my OD trans, would most of the OD feature be negated by such a low rear gearing? I do have a '51 Cranbrook parts car that I can pull the rear axle if need be. It has the 6.70 x 15 tires. If I used this rear end, would they be the 3.93:1 or the 3.73:1 gears? I haven't done the "rotate the yoke" bit yet to count. Wanted to check here for the gurus' feedback first.
  21. Well, the work on the Suburban continues, though slowly. My garage gets too cold to do much. I have spent my time doing rust repairs, cleaning and cataloging parts. I have a lead on some tail lights that will hopefully be here soon. I also just picked up a ‘51 Cranbrook that I will use for parts (floors, transmission tunnel, shifter handle/arm/linkage, driveshaft, bell housing, and other important bits). This will greatly expedite the search for al of these parts individually. On a side note: I did verify that my ‘52 was ordered with the high-clearance package 6.00 x 18 wheels. Only one I have still to ever see. In review of the owners manual that came with the ‘51 Cranbrook, I ran across this tidbit of information on page 28 when discussing the suburban. Pretty interesting and confirms my plans for the car. I’ll keep updating with more as the weather warms up and allows more time in the garage. Cheers! -Austin
  22. Well, I can officially consider myself addicted. I purchased a '52 Suburban (in process of a full restoration) back in July, and tomorrow will be heading up north to look at this. From what I gather from the seller, it is a 1951 (he listed it as a '53) Cranbrook Club Coupe. It's pretty straight and it runs and drive, though the owner says it smokes a little. He referred to it as a semi-automatic, but I know that the Hy-Drive wasn't introduced until '53 so I know it's not that. I'm hoping it was one of the post-'52 OD conversions that were offered at that time. Initially, I wanted to purchase this as a parts car, but it is too complete AND has a clear title, so I will keep this from the scrapyard as well. I will post more once I have it home and can give it a once over. It's from northern New Mexico, so it should be mostly rust-free. I guess I am now in the Two-Plymouth Owner's Club. LOL On a side note, I might try to pick up the sedan in the rear for a parts car if the price is right. -Austin
  23. Merle, it is a 4-speed with a date of 7-12-49 on the case. Who knows when it was put in, but I’ve got a Plymouth overdrive tranny out of a ‘53 to replace it. Still looking for all the right parts. This is going in my ‘52 Suburban.
  24. I am going to look at a '51 Desoto coupe tomorrow in hopes the floors, specifically the transmission tunnel, is similar. I have to replace it since the previous owner cut a good section of it out, including one of the supports. It would be easiest to find a suitable replacement rather than fabricate it myself. Fingers crossed that it is somewhat close. These old Plymouths are hard to come by here, or people want an exorbitant amount of money for their non-titled, no driveline, missing interior, project cars.
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