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nolan in blaine

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About nolan in blaine

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Blaine Wa
  • My Project Cars
    1937 chrysler royal

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  • Biography
    Live in Blaine WA
  • Occupation
    Mechanic

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  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    Driving Old cars

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  1. 1937 chrysler royal. 3 speed manual with od. trans and od are leaking out of every orifice. Where can i get a complete seal kit for them? Also does the trans have syncros on the 2nd and 3rd gear? 2nd is a bit crunchy whether up-shifting or down shifting.
  2. Ive been doing this stuff for years. Nothing new. This post is meant to be more motivational then anything. Just one more ""gearing" thread that might just help convince someone else they should take the leap. I should have taken pictures for sure.
  3. just a quick note. according to an rpm calculator i found online, with the 4.30 gear, a 26.3" tire, .70 O/D, at 70mph, it was turning 2,692 RPMs Now it should be 2,200 If i step up to a 28" rear tire it will knock it down to 2,100 RPMs.. That will be perfect! Dont be afraid to play with this stuff guys, totally worth it!
  4. So this is just a thread im writing for reference. To give someone a bit more info on the swap if they search for it and are thinking about it. My car is a 37 chrysler Royal 4 door. I had the 4.30 gear. It sucked bad. I bought a 3.55 rear end from a 96 Cherokee complete drum to drum. Typlicaly you find the Dana 35 but i lucked out and wound up with a Chrysler 8.25. Its a bit stronger im told. It measured about 3/4" narrower then the '37 axle. No biggie. I had to cut the shock mounts, and spring perches off. I used the perches off the '37 axle and welded them on the bottom of the jeep axle. I was able to bolt it in using the chrysler royal u-bolts. I did have to get a new drive line built. It needed to be 54 9/16" from the flange on the back of the O/D unit to the center of the u-joint on the axle. The new drive line had to have a slip yoke in place. I cut the ebrake cables off at the backing plates and just kept the original parking brake in the 37. I had to adapt the rear brake lines from the chrysler to the jeep, but running the newer rear brakes has made a huge difference in stopping power. Id say its partly due to the smaller diameter rear wheel cylinders taking less volume to move, and also im sure i never had the old brakes adjusted right anyway. But it stops much better! I will say, if you're thinking about better gearing... Do it! This swap isnt hard at all if you can do some cutting and welding. I paid $100 for the axle, and another $375 for the brand new drive shaft. Before the swap, I could do about 55-60 in overdrive and it sounded like it was wound to tight. I know it would probably do it all day but i felt it was revving too high. Now it will cruise on the freeway doing 75 and its nice and easy. And on the back roads it does 50-55 in 3rd. Im glad i got the 3.55 gears but a 3.23 would have been just a bit better. 3.73s seem a bit more common but i dont think it would have been ideal for my car. Another benefit i to the swap, for me anyway, is the horrendous vibration i had at cruising speed is completely gone. Its super smooth now. Now to get some seat belts in this thing so i can take the kids over the pass this summer!
  5. Ok that’s probably the way to got. I just through that out there this morning while I was heading out the door to work. I’ll do some more research
  6. https://www.powerstream.com/dc6-12.htm Got all excited and posted before researching. I think this is the answer i was looking for.
  7. So i need some tunes in my 37 chrsler. The car is 6v still and i think its gonna stay that way. I have a stock radio for a 38 desoto. My thoughts are to gut the innards out of the radio and put in a bluetooth speaker in there so i can run music off of my phone. This idea just popped into my head about 5 minutes ago so i havent quite worked it all out, But will my 6v system charge the 12v speaker? Would it just charge at half speed because its halve the volts or would it not work at all?
  8. Looking to get rid of the stump start starter in my 37 Chrysler royal. It’s still 6v positive ground. From what I gather Chrysler concerted to 12v before the went to key start. Am I wrong? If so what year/car can I order a starter from that will let me stay 6v but get rid of the floor starter button?
  9. Ok so i guess i have the early R4 od unit.. from what im reading the r4 was updated and there was a kickdown solenoid added and then it went to the r10 unit. Can i add the solenoid to the unit i have or do i need to find a later one? And Dpollo, you're right up the street!
  10. Just looking for some clarification. In my 37 royal, when i get up to speed and ready to settle in for a drive, I push the OD handle "in" let off the gas and get back on again to cruise in OD. But when i need to shift down for hill or to pass i cant... It wont come out of overdrive until i slow down enough for it to freewheel back to 3rd. Ive been reading on this a little bit but it seems there is some conflicting info. Are people just letting off the gas and pulling the od handle back out? I tried once and it sounded like it was going to tear something up. I cant disengage the od handle unless the car is stopped. The last car i had with the od option was my 58 rambler super. It had a cable like the chrysler but also had a switch That would let you shift out of od on demand. Am id doing something wrong?
  11. Bent and intake valve in my Chrysler 228. There are a few NOS ones on ebay but they are not very specific on measurements. Do all mopar flatheads use the same valves? are there differences in valve size between the 23-25 blocks?
  12. well thats a bummer... seems im stuck with what i got. Ill just be slow and careful about it. Thank you guys!
  13. yes mine have the "jam nut". I also havent seen any write up, pics or in depth discussion on adjusting this style. They do suck though. Ill see about getting a pic of them tonight. I got a busy day in the shop but ill try to get it apart after work. Can the lifters be removed through the covers on the side, or do they need to drop out the bottom? Id like to upgrade them to the later style if possible.
  14. My 37 royal has what i believe to be a 228 I had adjusted to valves in it a few months back and it was a pain in the ass. Most of the write ups on here i see have a different style lifter then i have. They adjust the valves using two wrenches with the car running. Mine I did cold because i saw no way to do it running. The lifters i have need 3 wrenches to adjust. Took me forever to get them as good as i could. Im getting ready to pull the head and pull the valves to grind them and do the seats. Can i switch over to the other style lifter while i got it apart? What years came with which style?
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